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It's Christmas, go with the beer! Once upon a time

Angelo Peretti
It's Christmas, and as we know, we are all better people: it's not true, but sometimes it's nice illusion.
It's Christmas, and the mailbox, and email box overflowing with good wishes. It usually also affects the newspapers, even those online quest'InternetGourmet as you have the patience to read (and has been read 250 thousand times: I am very happy), to wish the readers. It is, and most willingly wishes!
It's Christmas, and the magazine of food and wine we offer advice regarding recipes and wine pairings and delicious and varied, including gourmet gifts. So even on this issue I see to be aligned. So here we are with the piece Christmas in the subject. But I do not speak nor food, nor wine: beer is the star this time. Or rather, I'm the Christmas beer. Better yet, the Christmas of Belgium, which I love.
Since, however, are a bit 'of race and even a little' lazy, the central part of this intervention take it verbatim from a piece I wrote a couple of weeks ago for the Taste page of the newspaper L'Arena (good Morello Pecchioli Christmas, my boss, who takes care of the page). And then, finally, I put the tasting notes of the six keys to the Tavern bière de Noël Kus in the tasting that we have prepared a few days ago: The dinner was made with roasted pork shank, gorgonzola cheese with honey chestnut, chocolate cake. Wow!
In short: here we are. You say: 'beer', and think of the frothy drink alcohol moderately yellow-gold that serves pizza. They say instead: "Christmas Beer" and maybe do a little 'hard to understand what it is. Yet these are precisely the day of bière de Noël, masterpieces of Belgian beer. It has been in recent days, one after the other, smaller craft brewers of Belgium have released their Christmas beers.
limited production, rare, intriguing. Who have nothing, absolutely nothing to do with blondes swallow profusely from the jug.
are dark: the color ranges from amber to dark brown. Alcohol have a lot ', from 8 to 13 degrees, not jokes. Forbidden to drink it frozen: fresh, at most, around 14 degrees in temperature, but if they go to 18 no problem, as if they were important red wines. And like a good red wine are typically in bottles of 0.75, it is in the ball for three quarters to better develop their characters sensational aroma. The label, the classic themes of the period: snow, decorated trees, starry nights, angels, monks, the ubiquitous Santa Claus, squirrels, gnomes. Often even the decoration is printed directly on the ball. Among the Christmas myth Belgian beers are the St. Feuillien Noël, the Christmas Ale St. Bernardus, the Noël des Rocs the Abbey, the Chouffe N'Ice, the Binchois de Noel, the alcolicissima Bush de Noel. There are beers that they are even able to aging well: a few years ago did not hurt. You can savor a sip. They're wonderfully with the kitchen in winter. But they are also ideal for after dinner: a glass more than enough to spend an hour chatting with friends, taking a little 'relaxation by the fireplace.
The taste is very unique and enchanting. And is influenced by top secret recipes of master brewers. Meanwhile, to make the Christmas beer using carefully selected malts. And then the call is flavor: some uses cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, juniper, sometimes honey, and even fruits, orange peel, in particular. It's rumored there are sometimes cutting through spirits. Of course giving rise to a complex sensory respectable. Meanwhile, have a pleasant bitter aftertaste reminiscent of licorice, but also a vein of sweetness that recalls the chestnut honey and caramel. Then, the spicing. And the notes of dried fruit: hazelnut, walnut above. And vague memories of berry ripening. It is a soft and creamy foam. Fascinating. Now
cards of the six beers I mentioned above. I give each of the index of average found in the tasting pleasure: you were sixteen, and the vote could go from zero to ten, including the halfway point. Then there's my usual opinion Faccini, one to three. Then again the wholesale price of bottled by 0.75 (this is the right format).

Abbaye des Rocs Spéciale Noël The nose of crusty bread are heated in the oven and a light vein of anise. The mouth is wide, winding, bittersweet: malt, licorice, subtle memory of dates, roasted hazelnuts. Epper also chlorophyll, eucalyptus. And chestnuts, too. And chestnuts in brandy, mostly. And there's length. Today it seems a little 'girl and decomposed, but in my view, could give away the surprises. Make it a bit 'aged in the bottle. He has 9 degrees of alcohol.
Index pleasantness average: 7.067
A little face :-)
Wholesale Price: 5.14 €.

Spéciale Noël The Binchois Nose agricultural rum, veins of candied cherry, dried orange peel and sweet spices. And as time passes, the bouquet becomes more and more incredibly fascinating out gradually amaretto liqueur with citrus fruit, the rose oil. Then comes flowers, roses, still, above all, and then a little 'of cyclamen. Then again, overbearing, tea with lemon, bergamot. Unbelievable. And there mouth elegant, with hoppy notes, but especially fruit, fruit, fruit: berries juicy, overripe apricot, candied papaya, figs dry. Persuasive. Intriguing. 9 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average: 8.033
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Wholesale Price: 4.89 €

Cuvée de Noël St. Feuillien Nose coffee and chocolate, light licorice streak , burnt crust of bread. Light hints of graphite. The mouth is powerful, strong. Malt and licorice: a lot of both. Nice length, but does not allow anything on the side of matchmaking. The finish is all about the bitter mood. Beer male. 9 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average: 6.900
A little face :-)
Wholesale Price € 5.67

N'Ice Chouffe Another beer as to refine in the bottle, this is a classic, but it needs to be done. Today, the nose has traces of denatured alcohol, however, with veins of date, fig, fine and markets. The mouth is in tune. It has tension, density, power. I vaguely recall, in the sweet, balsamic vinegar. Unctuous, almost. A strong beer, very tonic acid side. 10 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 7.833
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)
Wholesale Price € 6.17

St. Bernardus Christmas Ale Oh, oh, oh! Would you say Santa Claus. Great beer, great beer. Nose charm, Oloroso sherry from Palo Cortado. Memoirs of antique furniture, and besides the crust of toast, nutty, bitter almond. The almond leaves in the mouth at first, but soon balanced by a vein of bittersweet caramel and chestnut honey. Impressive persistence: emerge gradually and increasingly strong seductive and rich memories of dried fruit and then peach pit. Fascinating. 10 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 8.400
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Wholesale Price € 5.96.

Bush Noël Premium Brasserie Dubuisson Freres The Bush, the battleship of Belgian Christmas beer. Impressive nose in his notes of rum, Armagnac. And then sherry. And then the old wooden barrels for years and years. And even winey notes. Alcohol is obvious, but important are the notes of candied citrus, nuts, fruits of ancient woodland sumaturi, persimmon maturissimi pur'essi. The mouth is creamy and thick, molasses and even hugging and even vanilla. Caramel and brown sugar and wildflower honey and date to the natural and Jamaican rum. Powerful. But if they did not tell me that smell is a beer, I would say that is a sweet, noble and aged, with aristocratic veins oxidative dates from refining. 13 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 8.033
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
8.52 Wholesale Price

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Cabernet

Angelo Peretti
But yes, from: The title is a provocation. The Cabernet is still there, and now and then. More that once upon a time. But the infatuation, that would not be totally over, but is a bit 'on the way to sunset. I speak of Italy, of course (oh, the French is something else: it comes from someone who loves Bordeaux). There remain, for charity, very delicious, but the long wave is fading. Or at least I think.
It all started in the late eighties, to become a mania in the next decade. Following the success of Sassicaia, born here in the yard ending with wine (in the name or style) a little 'everywhere.
Then, it was boom. And so to plant cabernet and merlot from Alto Adige to Sicily and to make wine, therefore, on the Bordeaux blend, and therefore to over-ripeness and concentration, and muscle, and power, and fruttone, sweet tannins and a long stay in barrels, and vanilla from a small cask. With the blessing of Mr. Parker, the Wine Spectator. And our local critics. Epper also frequent visitors to restaurants and wine bars, those wines that asked them how.
Oh, for heaven's sake: I said the merger and so on, but there has been mica always successful. And indeed, many, many times there has been found and there is more to deal with merlot & cabernet resolved and green and raw and allappante or sickly sweet. But, I said, good and there were none. But it is not more fashion to dictate. And that is good in that, finally, because it is just good. It is enough.
was fashionable, I said. And fashions change. And I wonder if we really needed to dip into our own discipline to memorize at all costs bordoleseggianti vineyards. And cabernetizzare Italian vineyard. Cabernetizzare And indeed - as well as among whites chardonnayzizzare - half a globe terraqueous. But the wine business, you know, and if the flies Bordeaux, Bordeaux to make them all away. Ecché, other than perhaps the current catchphrase of pinot grigio in America & United Kingdom?
Now, to try to get me a picture of what was and is the phenomenon of Bordeaux I come from, Triveneto ie the area of \u200b\u200bthe Garda, a few nights ago I set up a wine tasting as we uncorked during more than twenty. Trying to select names and others less important. Putting together the Garda, Trentino, Alto Adige, the Euganean, Friuli. Several more years, with the majority but for the new millennium. Drinking a lot 'of red tribicchierati from driving the Shrimp & Slow Food. And some of the good good but we have found. Now do the most interesting account below: they are, those that are best appreciated by those present. With double voting: the usual Faccini, one to three, and the index of average pleasantness (those present at my tastings always ask to assess wine with decimal vote, using the half-point if needed, according to the parameter of personal pleasure, and thus has 10 wine, if there were, you would like to immediately ristappare another bottle, and to fall down). The order is the index of pleasant places.

San Leonardo 1997 Tenuta San Leonardo Gentlemen, hats off. It is a great red, this one. Noble. Young, despite having reached the decade. Emerge from the glass, of momentum, spice, medicinal grass, pepper, ripe fruit. Nose still young wine. And that vitality in your mouth! It has elegance, freshness and inviting, and satisfying length and appealing. A wine of great pleasure and good drink. Who can stand still so long in the bottle. Trentino. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Merlot and then in small part, I believe.
pleasantness index: 8.962
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Quaia Frage 2000 The 2000 was, according to many, the best Quaia Matilde Poggi (but I really liked , always the smallest, and most if we want bardolino, 2003). And in fact this distance is the 2000 red that still amazes and surprises. He has so much red fruit. Mature. Maturissimo. And spice petite. And pepper. It is so sweet fruity in the mouth, but also nervous acidity, which gives back and revives. And tannins still young. I confess: I did not expect so much dust. Veneto, Lake Garda hinterland. Cabernet sauvignon predominates and then franc.
pleasantness index: 8.115
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda Cabernet Zalt The 2003 Cascina La Pertica Oh, oh: the second wine of my lake! And these are just nice Zalt House of perch. I remember having adored, the past year, this 2003, and did not riassaggiavo a year now, and I found enjoyable. But had to let it hath been long in the glass, that we first found reduced. But then here is his classic Fruttino, el'erbetta Alpine, and the vein acidity that refreshes, and the small body length Epper also enviable. Lake Garda, Lombardy side. Cabernet sauvignon and just a touch of merlot. Biodynamic.
Index of pleasure and Faccini 7.808
Two happy almost three :-) :-)

Breganze Two Saints Vineyard Cabernet 2005 Zonta Look, I love the 'I'm wine. I like its clean, juicy fruit and enveloping, and his frank and immediate drinkability, and yet also its length, the red value. It is young, certain, and therefore should be drinking a little 'beyond (and why someone has a little' penalized in the tasting). But if you happen crossing, try it. And then I'm happy Zonta in the house we do not mount the head and keep prices reasonable, despite the three cups Fiocchino now. Bravi. For wine and moderation.
Index of pleasantness 7.654
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Südtiroler Cabernet Sanct Valentin 1999 Cantina San Michele Appiano He had, not only good fan whites, those in the cellar of Appian. And I bet that many would drink it gladly 'I'm red. He then nose of spice and great fruttone and vein mineral and green notes. And in the mouth, here's a refreshing memory of pink grapefruit and almost orange peel, and still Fruttino red. And there is in fact intriguing contrast between the greenery olfactory el'agrumata presence on the palate. It would be perfect if it were not for that pile of sweetness too. Alto Adige, of course.
Index of pleasantness 7.615
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)

Hills Red Hills Gemola 2001 Vignalta Now, I have no doubts that I had in front of a table and wanted to find a red that happy a bit 'all at the first sip, I choose Gemola. What a wine is exemplary for the style that I said at the opening: it has everything you need, or concentration, and fruit and sweetness, and length, and fullness, and charm. Done well. For me, there is a wine I would drink more, but I am liking. And anyway, is clear: the people appreciate a nice glass indeed. Veneto, Colli Euganei Padova province. The rest mostly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Index of pleasantness 7.538
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)

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Balance and the crystal and wine

Angelo Peretti
Balance, balance, balance. That's what I want in a wine. Along with the fine, but they have to think of it, accordingly. And I am so glad that this is the magic word is repeated again and again at the conference sponsored by the Verona Angiolino Maule - read Gambellara to biodynamic production, ie the Biancara - with its association VinNatur. Oh, yes I am happy that I have the utmost respect for Steiner's theories on the biological and natural and what you want, but also - and allow that - For those who seriously conventional agriculture, provided, however, that the wine comes out of it, whatever the practical background, as well as those who remember with pleasure, excitement and because it has given you something important, ' only tell thee. And the story unfolds precisely when there is, on balance.
Now, however, that the balance of a wine you seek is not already - not only - in the basement, but especially in the first place by the balance of the vineyard and the earth that is the guardian and mother, perhaps, what I seem meritorious. And effective. Therefore, they are welcome and the theory of empiricism and biodynamic vigneron who s'autodefiniscono natural and authentic. Provided - of course - who are the genuine enthusiasm and commitment, and we do not stop to put the organic label for marketing to cheap, which is no longer speculative bubble, and it is worth remembering not even the boom years so remote internett, when it was enough to put an e before the name of a company - and make it just an e-something - because the title splash on the stock exchange, only to end up with a handful of flies soon . It is this: do not make the mistake, that does not work (more).
Given all this, n'ho found a lot of enthusiasm among the followers and colleagues and teachers of Angie. And maybe in some one of them a little bit of radicalism, if not sectarianism, but they are sins of youth. Nevertheless I seem to have understood that the phase of infatuation is fading to make way for a positive and healthy realism that leads to hope. And most of all I liked in this, Christian Marcel, who practices the crystallization-sensitive, and has held a report saying that is just fascinating. And the main character, this Marcel, rigorous and transparent person seemed to me and not at all intended to help them trade. So much so that he repeated that they were - his - of a research tool, and not yet of an exact science. Which shows or may show, however, things beyond the conventional analysis.
The emphasis is this: the scientific approach brings physical-chemical analysis, which explains a lot, but not all. The unexplained can be interpreted in an anthroposophic and crystallization is sensitive in this area. Which is perhaps subjective. But it offers an advantage which would be absurd to pass over in silence simply because mainstream science has not really yet fully occupied and therefore neancora issued - or wanted to deliver - their own opinion. In short: everything is explained and not explained by mainstream science, and even with anthroposophy, thank goodness, and is therefore still a long way to go, but the method is now long experienced, and therefore supports and complements - for those who want to - scientific analysis.
Now, it must be said that this methodology is sensitive crystallization born about seventy years ago on the basis of suggestions by Rudolf Steiner, biodynamic of thought is the father. The whole thing works - in a nutshell - this way: on a glass disc, the copper chloride is added to an extract of organic matter or mineral. The interaction between copper, which is the tenant, and the electromagnetic charge of the molecules in solution causes the formation, on diskette, figures in the form of crystals, geometric images capable in some way expresses the forces of matter. The problem is to give correct interpretation of those crystals. But if that fails, here is that if they draw much useful information on the health of the place or plant or wine, the risk of disease in the vineyard, the dynamics of the terroir, the correctness of the grafts, the blend of happiness, the ability of ' aging. Having said this may seem unrealistic, but evidence and findings would lead to say that it works, going to give possible explanations, plausible, whereas the conventional analysis does not reach, and thus supporting and enriching. Not m'addentrerò over the issue (those who want to learn more go to the site www.vinimage.com ).
Now, I pause for a moment instead of a sentence that said Pierre Paillard, who led the work of the conference: "What is important - he said - is the reality. If the theory is not able to explain the facts is the theory that needs to be changed, because the facts are. " After all, the way it has always towards knowledge-based observations of this kind. So on with the experiments. And with the natural and biodynamic. Cum granu salis, but I do not believe the millenarianisms and sectarian hate. And I try to take what's good for everybody. It may appear
abritrario say that chemistry is the die land and destroys the terroir - and it is indeed possible and probably true - but at the same time, however, applaud the methods that terroir revising it. Which is nothing if not a change the terroir, the method described at the conference - acclaimed in fact - that through the extension of a copper wire buried around the vineyard favors, impacting on electromagnetic fields, the flow of water excess? It is true that with this procedure on the vineyard is more healthy and more balanced and even integrates into the vegetation and fruiting. True even though - I think - that the correlation between vine and soil and climate is artificially changed, so where is the strict respect of the terroir? So I think, and I can be wrong, of course.
I hope, however, that people can be on the eve of a new humanism, as noted by Pierre Paillard. And you can have a renewed relationship with life and with nature. And everyone can do his "global change - Paillard's words - it is not possible. We must change that each individual in its own sphere. " I agree. But even claim that their change is necessarily the only, and is the only correct.
In any case, it is true are the facts that remain. And the facts tell me that in recent years I have been drinking wine is biodynamic fascinating that in the conventional technique. But also that the biodynamic quand'incontri well done, then the wine glass you scream. And what do you n'accorgi tasting, not the label. And this personality and richness and balance that we find you fans think about (and enjoy). And here we are back at equilibrium. That first wine to be found in the vineyard and in the ground. Epper even before the vine and the earth, I believe, the mind and heart.
last thing, to play down, for I perceive of having been serious. A vote at the conference: for high participation, high for content, up to the speakers, very low and insufficient to break, because you can not hear of wine for two days and find only mineral water and orange juice carton . In short, a drop of the bio-wine while I drank ... Okay, I'm done again, then home.

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The hill, the lake, the rain and the Franciacorta

Angelo Peretti
You are a bad driver, in the sense that certainly do not like the car to madness, but when there is too much traffic going regularly live. Sometimes I have to cross when safe on the Milan-Brescia Venezia: all the chaos of cars and trucks give me discomfort. And maybe more I attorney anarchy roadway that is just off the highway, on highways and freeways leading into the city of Brescia and in the suburbs, between rows and rows of warehouses, and going crazy with people who seem not to able to do is push on the accelerator even where you should not run (could). So here
I'm headed there with a little 'anxiety in Franciacorta, in a late morning month of November that it was raining cats and dogs, having had to first pass the infernal triptych Brescia east-central-west and then zigzagging between the metal snake of cars and trucks outside the Rovato. The
however, is that I waited for my first real immersion in the reality bubble Franciacorta (other previous visits had been touched and leaks), so the trip was worth it. This time m'avevano organized a visit to those of Sata, agronomists assault agency (in particular rintrazio Marco Tonni proposed to me the day Franciacorta), with the balance of the earth and believe the vineyard. So be careful not to harbor Falsely soils, which means, for example, no chemistry, and healthy manure, however, between the rows. And then Mark was waiting for me Zizioli, young winemaker with strong personalities, he also consultant in Franciacorta, Sata in close harmony with the group.
I'll tell you now that, despite the traffic approaching - then there a few steps from Lake Iseo things have changed for the better, and quite a bit - and I am caught grand'inzuppata, the piece of Franciacorta I met I liked it, and quite a bit '. And indeed remains the vineyards and the rain that continued to roar formed together, something beautiful. Or maybe it's that to me, lakeside, those gray skies, I am sad that air family, and also the usual m'è moraine hill planted with vines, and then I reflected in this land a stone's throw from the lake, while a little boy. And I found some fascinating glimpses as to the bogs, the vineyard of the Grove (I think I will call it that, is not it?) Family Bosio. And spick (you can tell?) I found the hill in Provaglio was planted in the vineyard by Chiara Ziliani. And then all is beautiful and close and dense vineyards. Following the example of Champagne. And the work of agronomic advice you see it, touch it with his hand.
And then you do everything in Franciacorta with entrepreneurship sum, and therefore it is said that good wine is made mainly in the vineyard, well, 'here we take the agronomist to prepare the vineyard, which makes the result so good fruit on which then - only then - will have to engage the winemaker. And so it ends up that even the little ones, maybe not the agronomic advice if they can still afford it, imitate others, and thus is well-run around the vineyard - or almost - Franciacorta.
And this does not mean standardization. That the terroir affects, and how, if not approval points. So here is that the bubbles of Franciacorta seem to follow two different paths: one focusing on green and flowery, and those that highlight the Fruttino and pulp.
The other stylistic diversification is instead: some people (most) looks at the softness, and then put sugar in high enough liqueur, and it also brings commercially today, and who still stubbornly (evviva! But I am little bit) s'ostina to prefer sour and nervous.
Then there is the third variety, one that divides the bubbles between brut (and here you put into it even though the extra brut and rarely done pas dose) and satèn, yet another genius of Franciacorta, born fifteen years ago when he more smoothness by the lower pressure, and now growing assertiveness. For then the success is in Franciacorta everyday life: there is zero problems selling, for those who can make the step right. And the pace here seem to keep almost everyone.
Now, finally, some of the four wine farms visited, all followed by a Ziioli and agronomists Sata.

Franciacorta Satèn Ziliani C - Chiara Ziliani not vintage, but the harvest is only one reference, that of 2004, and the disgorging is June. He vanilla nose and almost, I would say, buttery, and briochina apricot, and elegance and flower. It is also the floral palate, and is also green, vegetable, and I like this refreshing enthusiasm. There is length, and relaxation. Then gradually opens to the small fruit tart. It has nice length. Son of young vines, which had only three years when the grape harvest, says that the hill is right. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Boschedòr Franciacorta Extra Brut 2003 - Bosio Oh, my goodness, a vintage of 2003! Year of the heat, you'd think that ill-suited to the bubble, and Vintage then, and even extra brut, never mind! But the wine is quite interesting. Thirty-three months on the lees, it has been. It offers the nose and hazel nut and mineral vein and below the crust of freshly baked bread. In the mouth, here is the bubble has a creamy, well-modulated. And is expressed in good measure freshness. And there's fruit, citrus and so (the orange, its skin). And a lot of nice balmy vein. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Satèn Franciacorta - Riva di Franciacorta The first harvest of the company, baby, was that of 2005, and so this (along with the brut), the first wine produced, and was briefly on the yeast therefore 19 months or so. And it was just foul-mouthed a couple of months ago. Yet the conditions are good. The nose has lovely citrus notes and the mouth is on the same level Epper also innervated memories of elegant white flower. The structure is not as impressive, but there is elegance. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Franciacorta Satèn - Far bolicina Valley on a farm. Good bubble, the beautiful farm (and all around the vineyard, in a valley), the substance of the kitchen. Kitchen and Franciacorta go hand in hand, and the dishes with butter el'agliatura there is also that hair which has more of softness in the wine. It goes down a glass after another, despite the sugar shove, this satèn. The nose has a lot of nutty, a little 'toasted evenly. It returns to the aroma on the palate. And there is a crust of bread. And nice Fruttino berries. It is interesting length. It is creamy and pulp. It is not vintage, but it's still the vintage 2002, disgorged at the end January 2006. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

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Those flavors that come up from the past

Angelo Peretti
This was read in these days in Palermo were convicted of extortion, aggravated the three defendants who were accused of having asked for protection money to the historic San focacceria Francis, in the heart of the city. He had reported the owner.
the focaccia I've been there recently. We parked a car in front of the police. It was packed with people. Especially young people. I've eaten the loaves ca 'meusa, the sandwich with the spleen. For more married, that is enriched with cheese - I think it's cheese: Tavern on the say so of Italy - cut into strips, which melts when heated offal. How was it? Amazingly tasty. A touch of the past. Unique. If I go back out there, it is certain that I do another free ride.
In Florence I could not resist the charm of Horace Nencioni stand next to the Loggia of the Pig kiosks overflowing with clothing and leather. I just had lunch. But when I ran into the truck that served the sandwiches with the lamprey, well, 'how could I pass by? And what is the lamprey is obvious: tripe. A Case of Culinary resistance, "says Tavern, about the Florentine tripe. The boil and keep warm, to slice it in front of you. Then splàf, heated in the sandwich plate. Pesantuccia, but indispensable.
Li call now, street food, these rolls genuinely popular. Street food. Belong to the tradition. To save. To savor. In the face of continued restrictions sanitation. Sometimes, frankly incomprehensible.
will say: but how, you, Verona, love the sandwich when the mayor of Verona, in fact, forbids the consumption in the streets? Meanwhile, Tosi has prohibited camping on the monuments, and at La Scala voters will decide whether it is good or not. But I would say that he did well, considering the sandwiches that are sold in the center: with all the raw materials that are valuable in the province, what is the point that tourists s'ingozzino of plasticume?
And anyway, is not that I want sandwiches think along these lines. Rather than tradition. Of traditional food. And I say hurray, even, to festivals, if you eat with sacred chrism. Without becoming subject to the pre-cooked, mixed in, the envelope industry. A Pizzighettone in Cremonese, I happened by chance, a few days ago, the party of the oc fasulìn de cun the cùdeghe, and the title a bit 'm'inquietava. But the tasty soup (served in earthenware bowls) of the eye beans, almost impossible to find, and pork rinds (many) cooked long. You can have quality even in the streets, if you really respect for tradition. If you have a heart. Mica enslavement, distorting, plagiarism make money easy and maybe tax free.
Behold the culinary tradition. This is what is relevant. And not only for matters of the street or square. Not only that, of course, when there are half of offal (I eat willingly, it is understood). I see, more generally. a return - finally - to traditional cuisine. Italica. This is the restaurant that works today. The rest live on the air time of crisis. Provided it is not just fashion, fleeting.
In fact, I think the world of food (the good quality, I mean, there's too many people amman crap) it can be split in two. Taverns (inns) and restaurants altogether.
The first, the restaurants for me are the ones that they ought to do, in fact, tradition. With products of the territory, with typical features of the site, with ancient wisdom. But beware: It must have good product, which otherwise is the farce, and in the name of traditional atrocities brought to the table. Before the value of the raw material, in any case. And, together, to respect the dietary history. Maybe lighten it, of course: mica need now to give too much substance to the stomach feel full. And so less sauce, less greasy, and maybe, if possible, cook more moderate and short, which do not lead to the pulping dish. But this is, again, the mission of the restaurant of preserving the tradition. It can also be nineteenth-century bourgeois cuisine: veal with tuna sauce, for example. But do not cut with the rocket, please.
the restaurant has a further role. That is to apply wit to quality raw materials, which are the place (I prefer) or not. And there must be Service adeguatissimo. Because this is not just experience throat, but instead must be all-round feast for the senses. It's the place where you go to eat, but to make the evening. So just pot, right glass, right tablecloth, perfect location, right ambience, right time, right temperatures. In short, attention to detail, the nuance. And that takes effort and commitment, of course. It means maybe not low in price. But justified, or at least justifiable. Who cares if the kitchen is the creative force applied to the reinterpretation of tradition or the creativity in the round. You pay the total genius. Here he won his head, thinking.
In common, the restaurant of my heart and my head restaurant, have one thing: the search for the product. They have the chef or owner, who goes to market early in the morning to try to make that kitchen. What is not content to order over the phone and wait for the van. And indeed they also share another, equally important factor: the sense of hospitality, acceptance, respect for the client, lest the people you does do so vex the market, in the hall, among the pots?
is in the middle of everything. The places where you feed in some way. With all the same raw materials, taken from those usual three or four suppliers that take you around the house and more. And here you slam on the table to eat the stuff and just consider you a number: "Coffee at 16," you hear screaming, and you're not a person, but you're low, in fact, a number, what is written on table, on those narrow, greasy placeholder. And then maybe, at the time of the account, pay your equally thirty, forty euro, but are not very small price.

How To Have Hair Like Dahvie Vanity

Ah, the joy that can make a Muscat with ham ! Those two hundred thousand bubbles

Angelo Peretti
I admit to not knowing almost nothing of the Moscato d'Asti. Moscato Piedmont in general, there is also the doc, of course, Piedmont's Moscato. I've never been in the area, to see the vineyards and cellars, places to walk. Only a few passages of escape. By car. Nothing.
confess something else: I like, and many more. And I think that a wine reference. What other producers Italic Bianchisti should try, try, test, evaluate, study it carefully. Mica to make wines equal, no. But to understand the limits. To understand, I mean, where is the border, which seems tenuous (and perhaps labile in effect), between elegance and vulgarity, harmony and grinding. Today is where you play the game. And the Moscow did not admit errors: sweet, aromatic, effervescent, with little body, or printing on fine wine, or there is nothing to do, and you stucchevolezza.
Behold here is the limit, this is where the real challenge. In the old days (at sunset, I hope, in those days) the concentration of muscle power, the structure is taken to excess, wood prevaricating, tannin distressing, there Astigiano who teaches that you can act instead on lightness on the light on nuance. What becomes fascination. What intrigues. What captivates, even.
Besides, plant them, thank goodness, to regard a dessert wine, Moscato. There is, of course, with apple pies and pear, with the creams. But it is wine. And I like to think of it with cream cheese, maybe, or with cold meats, primarily with the ham, the sweet, young man. Try it, Moscato and ham: combination of fairy tales, that approach seems, yes, bold & rebellious, and instead is dreaming union with the gentle touch of pork fat that s'associa to look like soft, fruity wine, with the salting that fone with the slight spiciness liquid with tiny stinging vivacity that cleans the palate and prepares to bite again and again to sip, and the mouth is a wave of saliva. The mouth watering, still used to say.
who say raving? I think I thought so even some of those who came to deustazione Moscato d'Asti that I held some time ago at the Tavern Kus, San Zeno di Montagna, the lair of my wine tastings. Instead, all surprised. Perfect with ham, yes, of the Veneto. But even with duck prosciutto - craft - that led Bruno Mario Guerra (I Rasoli is his farm, on the Baldo), and with his fence and smoked bacon. Bewitching with growth. Even with the Gorgonzola. And we have seen, therefore, which is wine for wine indeed. Wine to drink, I mean, even at the table. Ohibò.
And now here's someone that I present below of flies that we key: carry the best, and eight are placed on the sixteen in the glass. With a warning, namely that, alas, we have found several oxidation. Because, I think, bad storage in the warehouses of distributors and resellers (which gives them the best we have taken many). And for that I am finished out of the game, for example, bowls of Caudrina Romano Dogliotti, which in the past I remember a dream, and instead this time ... Too bad. And also at the bottom of this Moscato d'anomalous: it requires care to keep it in keep it. You do not forgive anything, and a change in temperature's can be fatal. But may not know who sells these things? Can not love each other, a jewel of the genre, and this is very bad, you disfigure?
Oh, I get to mind another warning: you will see three labels Paolo Saracco. Do not be surprised: it is a genius when it comes to Moscato. At least I think so.
's wines, with double points: Faccini and cents.

Piedmont Fall 2006 Paolo Saracco Moscato d' The general comments of the participants in the tasting? What looks like a Loire white, floral and fruity white fruit and herbal sage ed'ortica, even grass lemongrass. Like a beautiful French Sauvignon, but with the effervescence in addition, a small body but fascinating. A cameo. Seductive, intriguing, sensual. Joyful. The drink, the ribevi, you will not ever get tired. Very elegant. I think this one of the great whites of Italy, and there seems a chance.
91/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Paolo Saracco Moscato d'Asti 2007 The new vintage. Someone who preferred him to 2006 (you read below) for the green vein refreshing, thirst-quenching. Young, not yet fully expressed. Yet there is advancing, with his classic style, its voltage. Grintosissima.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

2006 Paolo Saracco Moscato d'Asti Oplà, another beautiful bottle! Beautiful nose, fruity, floral, spicy. Light walnut tone. And beautiful mouth, firm. The fruit is well expressed. Relaxation, harmony. Pleasant, not at all cloying.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Moscato d'Asti 2006 Cascina Fonda nose at first a little 'back to enjoy. Then gradually opens up floral and white peach and pear Kaiser. Variety. Delicate mouth, I would say bell'eleganza. Sweetness is not invasive. And there's also a nice length. Nice lot.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Moscato d'Asti La Spinetta 2006 Hawthorn fine fragrances, floral. White flowers. Pera kaiser a bit 'sour. Bocca pleasant, even tones on white flower with a light background of hazelnut and almond. Quite sweet, though.
83/100 - two happy Faccini :-) :-)

2006 GD Vajra Moscato d'Asti wine How strange! The nose is almost mineral. Very personal. Difficult to afford. Did not you expect those known varietal. Is there any hint of dried lavender, resinous veins, cuddling cypress. Lightly spicy, balsamic memories. The mouth is tense, nervous, quick. Quite long. I repeat: weird, strange wine.
80/100 - a happy little face and almost two :-) :-)

Asti 2006 Cascina Fonda We also uncorked some Asti. Sparkling wine, I mean. This is what is liked most in the evening. Nice nose, floral, fine, clean. Mouth in the same plane. Freshness, vigor. Hint of hazelnut.
80/100 - a happy little face :-)

2006 Moscato d'Asti Ca 'Bianca Technically it's done much good. A pile of personality, a bit 'of momentum, and fascinate. Vein has a light clean aroma and flower varieties. White peach almost bitter. Mouth not very sugary. Subtle spice, nutmeg.
78/100 - a happy little face :-)

Pirates Of The Caribbean 2010 Jesse Jane

mountain

Angelo Peretti
Oh, yes, yes: do not play only aromatic white and red and brawny slaves snappy, from parts of the Tyrol. They also make the bubbles. On the high mountain vineyards over two thousand feet of altitude, otherwise nothing sparkling. A few bottles: two hundred thousand a year, barely, at best. And I will tell you more about this: I'm good. Of course, not all have the same kindness, and it is natural that there's scale of values, otherwise it would be worrying standardization. But there is someone who deserves great, but none is unworthy of the first and second cup maybe. And almost all have affordable prices.
Fors'è precisely for that matter the heights that I've liked: I understand that well, at altitude and the grapes can ripen longer, than the other areas sparkling wine, but without losing freshness. In short it collects green mica. As for variety, are the usual: chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc.
I had the opportunity of admiring them, the bubbles in the mountains, off-site (them) in Verona, where the combination of the six sparkling wines (six in all) occurred in South Tyrol, "because - said Josef Reiterer, Read Arunda Vivaldi , which is the traditional method at 1200 meters altitude, opperbacco, and look crazy professor from Back to the Future - we want to promote our wines, but also to the ambassadors of our area. " And of the six fans that bubbles were present in five, the sixth, Von Braunbach, it does not even have enough for themselves, let alone carry them around. And then there were, in addition to Reiterer - that alone is roughly fifty percent of the total bottle champagne style - even Haderburg Lorenz Martini, the Cantina Produttori San Paolo, which has acquired the Kössler and Kettmeir.
Now, here's producers and wines, the ones I have tasted. And if you plan to take a trip in South Tyrol, well, 'maybe prendetevene note.

Alto Adige Extra Brut Arunda Vivaldi has nice elegant nose of white flower and fruit. And it's nice to dry mouth. Yet even creamy. And dense. And has short structure. It notes the length of Fruttino. And thin vein, below, dry hay. Great nice hand, think: intriguing wine. Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Alto Adige Cuvée Marie Arunda Vivaldi Wine Josef Reiterer has dedicated to his wife Marianna. And it is a beautiful tribute. Note that this car very elegant and aristocratic, I guess. Which classically goes off with the crust of bread and then turns on the small fruit, tropical for fine grain. It melts in your mouth and streamlined tension, depth and nervous temper. And no fruit, while, in the long finish. And it is to drink and Ribera. Wood Chardonnay, Pinot Noir steel. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Tyrol Brut Haderburg Born in '77 to Salorno Few of the company headed by Alois Ochsenreiter hath been devoted in recent years the absolute belief of biodynamics. It is a cert'impegno bubbles. Like this brut is very powerful and very fruity, dense and even balsamic-final officinale. He has good persistence. In short the riberrei, this here, just happy. Chardonnay, 85%, the rest of pinot noir. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Alto Adige Pas Dosé 2002 Haderburg Well, when I said that wine has Haderburg commitment, I was referring mainly to this one, the vintage. Certain that it's not easy to approach, but almost demands commitment, and you have to wait a while 'that opens, and then here to enjoy the fruits of the ancient forest, the medlar perhaps overripe. It's nutty. And it's tense, sharp as a blade. It has so much personality to put on challenging courses. Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Alto Adige Comitissa Brut Reserve 2002 Lorenz Martini Another nice wine. Another first choice, if I may say so. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, forty months on the lees. Secco. On a florality summer, mountain, exactly. Bocca even balsamic, resinous. Carbon minute. Creaminess. And the fruit of the long white becomes significant. Very good. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Alto Adige praeclarus Noblesse Riserva 2000 Kössler If I have misunderstood the Winery St. Paul has acquired two years ago the winery Kössler (1878 birth), while leaving intact the sparkling wine brand experience, maybe that will be redirected. We now know that bubbles easy to drink, playing on the soft, And this is in fact quite soft and floral.
A happy little face and almost two :-)

Alto Adige Brut Kettmeir hills Caldaro. From there are the pinot blanc (half of the blend) and chardonnay and pinot noir, all steel. It has yellow fruit in great evidence. And almost rusticheggia. And in the mouth - has texture - there emerges some green streak, which invites you to uncork more bottles even after further aging. Epper is a good appetizer.
A happy little face and almost two :-)

Heater Causing Runny Nose What To Do

Ten Groppelli for me, but not enough Possoni

Angelo Peretti
Yes, I understand, the title is just a ciofeche this time. But, you see, I just bought the entire discography of Lucio Battisti, and I listen in the car (which I will have made me nostalgic, you want). In short, this came to me in mind of songs: "Ten girls for me, Possoni enough." And as I review below some ten Groppello of Valtenesi, as I promised (promised?) Last week, here are the ten was the catalyst. And there they will go to illustrate so are the wines for me - now - be good, and I drank willingly from the first summer here, but not enough Possoni. In the sense that they still have room for improvement and focus more firmly on top. And what awaits me still further growth for the whole area, because other companies have blazon and history and vineyard. In short, courage: the time is right: I said and I repeat that I think you're about to fly, on the Lombard shore of Lake Garda.
About Baptists. That one of the ten girls, is certainly one of its most beautiful. What I really stuck to the head, his (a torment for me, that goes on for a couple of years, and I bought also the version recorded by others: that of the beautiful La Crus) is "And I think of you." And there's many others that give me the creeps. For example "I would like ... I would not ... But if you want (as you have heard the singing, too Antonella Ruggiero?). And "Our dear Angel?". I recognize you in that "but will never be enslaved." Okay: digressions. I go back to
Groppello. Story below it, of the ten that I chose, but they do not cover the full rossista VALTENESI. Because there the groppello (grape) should also end up in blends (alas: obsolete technique) or blend (cheers: here we are) with other varieties (Barbera, marzemino, sangiovese) for the Garda Classico Rosso (or Riviera del Garda Bresciano or Garda Bresciano, for the names if they are layered too many). And then I would say that ends up in wine-making experiments, with Rebus, for example, and other matters of table wines or IGT Benaco Bresciano. But this time I chose to tell only the label of bottles that bear the inscription monocultivar: Groppello. On the other reds, maybe, I will speak further on (by the way: with groppello you also Claret, pink)
Now, wines, finally. I put the double points, foil and into smilies. Proximate to say the wine as a subject, content. Faccini to say about my personal pleasure to drink.
The order is alphabetical, per producer.

Garda Classico Groppello Colombaio 2006 Cascina La Pertica Groppello drinkable, yes, and hence a lot 'of personality. And it is bell'azienda, Cascina La Pertica this: the front door and the red Zalt repeatedly tribicchierato. Ha, this Colombaio intrigantissimo nose: ripe fruit, nutmeg, camphor. Fruity mouth on advanced, mature, soft. With great emphasis on spice. And the sharp but not aggressive tannins. And below, firm and inviting, the fruit macerate.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Riviera del Garda Bresciano Gropèl 2004 Comincioli The Gropèl Gianfranco Comincoli is something of a work in progess, wine evolving style, marked as no one else the search continues for the mayor-Puegnago winemaker. Nose has a bit 'closed, but under no fruit macerate. Hot mouth, tannic, big, powerful. And yet much fruit (and cherries). There is spice. And good length.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Riviera del Garda Bresciano Suler 2003 Comincioli Comincioli ago when wine and oil is not there to look half-measures. Saying that it is a little extreme, and this the its value, but also - please forgive me - the limit. That sometimes is fine to go in between, and therefore need better focus, but I know Gianfranco is a lot working there. That said, here is the Suler, Groppello withering long, long time. The nose is a bit 'compressed, but underneath there is lots and lots of fruit maturissimo. The mouth is rich, concentrated, powerful, fruttatissima, tannicissima.
86/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Classico 2006 Groppello Castellina Costaripa Groppello smaller, so to speak, Costaripa. It left me thinking, which seems almost Groppello even last year, with the calmness of his already almost aristocratic. Nose ripe strawberries and plums. Slight spiciness. In the mouth, beautiful fabric tannic vellulato. And it is still on the fruit, very ripe. It has spice and length.
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Garda Classico 2004 Groppello Maim Costaripa so elegant a Groppello I had never found before. Maim is acronym stands for Matt and Imer. Vezzola family name. The first is the general manager of Bellavista, Franciacorta. Winemaker of the Year for my guide, Gambero & Slow. Costaripa Garda is the vineyard, the family business. The wine has a nose of red fruit and wilted ripening. There's strawberries and blueberry jam. Spezia. The mouth confirms the fruit macerate, but it has momentum and drink and juiciness. And there tannin well exposed, but senz'aggressività. Austere and vibrant whole.
88/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda Groppello Mogre 2006 Delai When Sergio Sergio has won his last hesitation and you will truly realize what it's worth, well, ' Expect great things. His Fronsàga is already pretty red. This is Groppello the wheel. Nose of camphor and macerated fruit and spicy vein. Wide mouth on the result, perhaps now a bit 'closed by tannic note. He has, moreover, good and spicy. Even here, Valur confident.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Groppello 2005 loyal Monteacuto The Antonio is a gentle giant. To see his hands makes you fear, as big as a spade. But man is gentle, almost shy. It makes wine in the garage, which has a small house and now there is more (but the new cellar is in the air). Makes wines that have character. This confirms Groppello. Fruity nose of ripe red berries. Bocca tannic, powerful, warm, spicy, peppery. Good length. Power but also freshness. To try to drink. And if in the future will increase the elegance ...
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Classico 2005 Groppello The closures Oh, that Alexander Luzzago face of the beautiful red Portis (read Portese, municipality of San Felice del Benaco) I already said some time ago talking about his Malborghetto (Rebus, merlot and barbera little). But it also has a nice Groppello. Fruit on the nose. Idem mouth, with hints of pepper and tannin maybe still quite green, which makes me say that it lasts, this red. Wine a bit 'rustic, therefore, but fresh and drinkable. Promotes it on trust.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Groppello Garda Classico Riserva 2003 Arzano San Giovanni Pasini Pending (re) try the 2004, drunk in the draft version, I ritastato dell'Arzane in 2003. And I confirm what I wrote long ago, reviewing. A kind of prototype which aims Groppello opulence of the fruit. Son of 2003, fruttone overripe, but not cooked: cherry, cherries, strawberries. And in a subtle herbaceous alpine vein.
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Garda Classico 2003 Groppello Baloss Zuliani Baloss in Brescia is the meaning of crazy, crazy. If not worse. But the land is also a strip of Baloss Valtenesi. A trail of orchid and bog where there are reeds and olive trees and vineyards together. Strange area. We get by, the Zuliani, a cru Groppello. That nose has intriguing tones on decaying fruit and berries (dried mushroom, moss, even). The mouth has nice fruit and round. Good drinks, but also well-defined tannins. Continue this evolved fruit notes, accompanied by forest scents. Beautiful length and tannins.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Cameltoe Volley Beach

Valtenesi But that's where flies

Angelo Peretti
in August I wrote two years ago: "Make way for the new Groppello.
Now, the wine in question is Groppello Valtenesi, Lombard shore of Lake Garda. Valtenesi I write with an accent, because I do not expect everyone to know this plague Garda and they know where they drop the emphasis, as you pronounce the name, in fact. And after some time, I'm just glad to see that I was a good prophet. The new Groppello not say which is grown and who became an adult, but certainly it was born. Believe me there great vitality in the land of Valtenesi, and reiterate the emphasis.
Groppello n'avrei drunk with great pleasure to tell. And I will do the week is: a little patience. This time I want to say something on grapes and its current management and future.
The grapes, therefore: groppello is native to, and it is good. And it is indeed a value. But frankly, that concept in Italian wine are mounting the fashion of autochthony ampelographic makes me a bit creepy 'skin, I can not stand the fashionable trends that periodically emerge in the world of the bottles. I do not give anything that the variety possesses indigenous pedigree, if you do then with that grape wines of ignoble drink. And perhaps even less if it m'intriga traggan wines made correctly - Winemaker compounds, winemaker of homework, but good - if not then I know to describe the earth and man, if I do not know how to tell of their terroir, in fact. And if that describes this wine rather well its terroir, and most importantly is the son of native grape, then I'm very pleased, rejoices. But it is the vine, remember well, the only component to be considered important, because otherwise you justify as typical errors in the vineyard and winery.
Now, groppello vine is certainly worthy of interest. But it is not a champion. In the sense that for us we must construct wine very busy. It has no color, this grape. Rustichello often gives tannin. It is not loose (the name, groppello, is to lump the rest, from grapes with grapes tightened to each other) and then it is likely that the attack fungi, molds. And maybe then (but I'd say maybe not) needs to shoulder, maybe the company does: and therefore put together a little 'of other grapes does not hurt, indeed. Conversely, I like it very much that his tone of strawberries, which together with the business of light color made me say, other times - and did not take to tackle - that reminds me of the Burgundian pinot noir, and that therefore the potrebb'essere the reference for those who want to make wine in Valtenesi.
Beware: they are coming to appreciate, the wine growers of the area. And they're pulling out more and more good bottles. Hurry up in the area, if still not popular.
The breakthrough seems to me there comes the final. I must say that although the four steps would help a lot. And I try to talk about it below.
The first: better know the main grape. I know who has started a project groppello by the Consorzio del Garda Classico. So the hope is that the project should be sent forward, perhaps alongside a few researchers at the university while willing to technical site.
The second: to learn more about the land, the territory. Need a draft zoning and mica in the classical sense just is not enough, that is, to be told if quell'ettaro is suitable or not the plant that this grape, but I also want to know which characters aromatic grapes he gets from this soil, the climate, the 'exposure. Essential information, if I want to design wines of balance and elegance, finesse and harmony.
The third, leaving the grapes. Alas, the vignerons of Valtenesi - too many, though certainly not all - with the press still love their red grape variety, and therefore groppello and barbera and sangiovese and marzemino, but also for some time more and more Rebus. I think that is an error, grapes still do, rather than to blend. Impossible, absolutely impossible, that all the grapes ripen at the same time. They serve different vinification, aging separated, and then make the cut. Which will vary from year to year, because every year is different, thank goodness. The fourth
: learn quick drying. Not nascondiamocelo: groppello with - which is not suitable grapes, because the compact rather than loose - so often a bit 'of drying, and the thing that I can help. But flash is almost always conducted empirically Thirty days because it has always done so, for tradition. Without question, however, how those grapes changes, modifications, shape their own flavor profile at varying days (giorni!) drying. Lacking scientific evidence, analytical, ch'aiutino the winemaker. The gap must be filled immediately. And then I saw too many local withering entirely inappropriate: all'umidore exposed districts, robbers, without any adjustment.
said that, however they have made important steps forward, convincing, compelling on the forehead of the 'red Valtenesi. And I'm sure - I repeat, I repeat, I confirm, I stress, notes, highlights - that you are ready to take flight. The hype, already: make great red wines. Sure. Rossi Valtenesi. Memo: terroir. With the added value dell'autoctono.
What are 'sti wines? Be patient - repeat - until the next episode.

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And if the withering bad drives out the good? Thank goodness that at least

Angelo Peretti
In economics, and more often for some time in the political jargon, is often cited the so-called Gresham's Law. The one that says bad money drives out good. In fact, the paternity of this assertion has been done a great talk: it seems even that was not even Sir Thomas Gresham, a British trade agent of the sixteenth century, to define it first. Who knows. Likewise, there is squabbling over its interpretation is often true. And since this is a web magazine that cared not strictly economic issues, that's Gresham's Law reproduce a reading of the most basic (and current), noting that over time has always been inclined to spend, with the same nominal value of the coins with the worst metal content and keep instead - and even earn - those with a bit more, say, gold or silver. After all, do so now that there is a currency of paper: first we give away the crumpled, preferring to keep the portfolio that made better, the fine print, as they say collectors. Why
quest'incipit para-economic in this newspaper that talks of wine and (more rarely, I admit, and I'll fix) things edible? Because I fear that Gresham's Law, a bit 'adapted, can be applied to finish the wine. And in particular to Valpolicella wine. In the most quoted: Amarone. Son of withering.
I would not want that in future we should say that the flash was bad drives out good. And I try to explain.
I am a bit 'worried about how I put things on earth valpolicellese, yes. And I'm sorry, because I have several friends over there. But I think a debate should be attempted. Hoping that what I will say it proves wrong, totally wrong. Whether it is only in hallucinations.
Amarone is known to be strong. The grape drying (because - ask the malicious - there's also the other's wrong with fruttai, Valpolicella?) Costs an eye of the head. The earth has taken quotes out of all odds. Well: The vigneron Valpolicella have been able to put hay in the barn. Only
that success has sparked the imagination of Amarone. And greed. And then the flash is not only characteristic of red Amarone (and his historian father, now rejected, Recioto, which I love), but s'utilizza, directly or indirectly, for stepchildren and godchildren. Godson is the Review, and also has great grip on the market. Stepson is every red igt s'avvalga that, in fact, grape dried in the fruttai, and comes out of everything and more.
The Review consists of the ferment on the skins of Amarone Valpolicella. In this way the wine has typical stench of withering. It grows in structure and complexity. The problem is that you immediately - and rightly - places on earth valpolicellese Review was how it was permissible to make in the face of Amarone grapes, pulled out the home. It has come to determine that the grapes that have produced a ton of Amarone can be used to make two tons of fermented Valpolicella. To me, honestly, seems a bit 'too much, but I understand: business is business. So be it. Except that he has not thought that, with the pot, the lid also needed to be done. And so in the skins of Amarone Valpolicella was born, just a business. The
this thing is. Let's say I am a manufacturer of those who do not want to do too much Review. Let's say I have a ton of product and its Amarone pomace I rehearsed one quintal of Valpolicella. I am virtually in the hands of rights equal to a ton of Review on those my skins. I do, those rights ripassevoli waste them? But no: I sell them! And takes money there too. So one else can buy those cards and let me brush up on his fine on my marc quintal of Valpolicella. So the Review takes an impressive number. But do not pay attention to the quality of Valpolicella departure. And it's a mess, said that the Review is seen as a sort of small Amarone: perhaps not still used widely this definition? With a maximum price that is half that of Amarone, but almost always falls far, far down, fourth, fifth.
But not enough. The Valpolicella is that to make the drying of the grapes are masters. And fruttai are perfectly functional, even computerized. So why use them only for dry Amarone grapes? She starts to fade even more stuff: I know, grapes that are not suitable, croakers that will never end in the red key, cabernet planted in a somewhat 'reckless a decade ago in the wake of American-mode. And in the end we derive a certain structure of red tones that echo the original Amarone. Maybe we cut together some barrels of potential Amarone less successful, which does not seem suitable for the doc's main wine, and that's it: was born on super-red drying style. And leaving dozens of IGT fancy (but are actually hundreds of them, believe me). Vaguely amaroneggianti, in fact, even if the quality is often uncertain. A price is almost always still lower than the Review.
Thus it may happen that the same company, derives from a loft Amarone - threw out the prices at random - at € 25-30 a Review at 9-10 to 6-7 and a red igt. And all is, of course, sold. Maybe sending the IGT in emerging markets and those that still are not able absorb pallets of Amarone.
Yeah, but if those markets learn that a flash of red valpolicellese costs 7 €, how will you then, dear husbandmen di Valpolicella, explaining that another red pur'esso withering of your land costs four times as much, although Amarone is called? Review And with all that running, then, and that barrel of alcohol over 14 degrees, and then amaroneggia increasingly, there is the risk of a substitution effect, because of price, all across the range of wine drinkers who spend some figures if they can not (more) afford it? And is there not a danger that the flash drives out the worse better, and thus banish the Ripasso, Amarone el'igt drive out the Review?
I recently told some Valpolicella. One, the door of his ultra-modern winery, has opened his arms and smile on his face, 'he replied: "Until I sell them I will do it, you'll want to throw away mica that all that stuff ..." Yeah, until they Sell, those red, take and take home. That the bank account grows. Then we'll see.
Oh, yes, maybe these things I write because I ate badly, and I do a little 'hard to digest. So I am in a dark mood. And then for me in October (early autumn) is a time of woe, as always, and depresses me. Maybe, yes, I write this, certain things. Or maybe not.

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Gino ... Of the Lugana Lugana


Angelo Peretti is known that gratitude is not of this world. And even less of the wine world. So do not surprise me in the land of quant'accade Lugana, now that you are finally awarded the first "star del Garda degustatoria in defiance of the" age of Lugana.
What it is, let him say to the press release I received: "The challenge called" The Age of Lugana "launched a few years ago by the Consortium wanted a commission of experts and press it to be assessed by comparing the same number of years and then reconfirming the following year. Tentatively producers which came first "experiment" were just ... "and so on. In fact, it was assessing a number of Lugana, put aside those that seemed to have a chance to improve over time, riassaggiarli the next year and the next, and if for three years in a row gave favorable results, then they are rewarded with the star of longevity. And the first three years that have passed the test are two Lugana 2003: Wolf of the Reserve and the Ca Lojera Molceo of Ottelli. Good.
But now I take the opening words of the press release, which is this: "It has always been called the" bet "on the longevity of Lugana and, if the bet was, now, in light of the evidence, we can say that it has been won. Yes, because only a few years ago, protected by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana Lugana Doc was offered to a group of senior journalists in the industry with the clear intention of debunking the belief that they wanted, because white wines are not suitable for proper aging and longevity. Lugana, and they said it was believed to be drunk young and fresh, preferably vintage. Among the non-believers will of the people of this great friend of the producers of Lugana, Luigi Veronelli, urged the producers, especially young people, to produce their Lugana then forget it for a few years in the cellar before you sell it, "you will find surprises and endless satisfaction, "he said. And once time was right. "
Right, absolutely right: Gino was right. But certainly I had it too. When I created this opportunity to compare the longevity Lugana, and Gino did not fit right.
You know, the gratitude is not of this world, and even the world of wine. But seeing as how it is born 'is not matter if it gives nod, I want to take away the fun (and have!) To put the facts straight, and explain.
So, the competition of the "age of Lugana" was in fact designed to house one evening - and then to dinner at his restaurant - Igino Cero (read Cà dei Frati). The year before I accepted the proposal by Paolo Fabiani (read Tenuta Roveglia), then chairman of the Consortium lugana - today is Francis Montresor (read Ottelli) - have to be placed sixth in the old contest of the star of the Garda. Only the samples that m'annoiai things, also because the formulation of priority by the tasting of wine he had made away with some nice wine, because - I believe - they had just considered 'typical' (ah, how many crimes along the way the typical!). In short, we made a little less wine than they foresaw the regulation. And then I explained the choices, in a memorable (for me, and for many producers, who still remember me) report: too much wood, too soft, too much oxidation, explained, a bit 'roughly even.
formula, I said, it was objectively old, outdated. Among the less convinced of the operation was Hyginus, who instead wanted something that would be able to shed light on the prerogatives of white Lugana in terms of ability to resist the passage of time (and beautiful bottles of yesteryear I Frati Lugana I could taste!). So, in a conversation, I pulled out the idea that the public judge the wines of the vintage in a sort of popular competition, but which reporters were asked to bet, in fact, the longevity of wine, with repeated sampling in the three years . In short, there is also my signature on this operation, thank goodness. But the press do not see any trace ohibò. But I understand: gratitude, and so on.
I say then that the contest still tasting of the "age of Lugana" I attended only the first year, my choice, so I was not there this time either, nor the previous one, and who needs to know the reason of absence, the know, but these are my chores, which do not detract from the wine. And I add that the two winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are really representative Lugana. And I had great doubts, however, that would be arrived at the finish. Moreover, had none in October already spoken two years ago. And if you understandably do not want to read the piece, I just report below quant'avevo then written on the two winning wines today.
First, the reserve of Ca 'del Lupo 2003 Lojera: "First wine to have passed the selection - I said - is the Lugana Riserva Cà del Lupo 2003 Lojera. For me, it's a genuine star. Lugana probably one of the best I've ever been given of taste. I've already drunk several times, and I always proved to be of enormous character. Perhaps difficult now to understand. Why still closed, nervous. But, to my mind, intended to fascinating future. It is made of steel. Only steel, no wood. Alcohol, although supported, is almost masked by a vivid freshness, quite unusual for a warm vintage which is a child. Emerge stench of citrus (lemon, grapefruit) and then citronella ed'erba mowing. The vegetables are all round. The minerality is there that would like to get out. The final, long, play in shades of green almond and colorofilla. Let it rest again, and give you satisfaction. I bet indeed. " The winning bet, then. And I am happy. And I confirm: the best Lugana I drank here (and I assure you that the button often the key and still frequently).
Now, Lugana Superiore Molceo Ottelli of 2003: "Then - then I wrote - the Lugana Molceo Ottelli of 2003. We are in the category of wines aged in wood. And Molceo again confirms a very good expression Lugana. Thick, fat, silky, yet also Citrine, lush sage. The passage in the barrel hardly feel it. You realize just for a vein of vanilla behind the large structure. It should not have their own problems to unravel the best in the three years that is. " And here too bet proved correct. And I am glad that Montresor know their stuff, and they work well, and is very good co 'white Prà Flavio, who is a consultant.
Now, another comment. Above I said that both the winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are representative Lugana. They represent, I mean, the two schools of thought Lugana. The first, to the Riserva Cà del Lupo Lojera, is a wine made from steel, that nothing grants to the smoothness, but is betting everything on freshness, and plant and mineral. The other, of Molceo Ottelli, switching back into the wood, and plays on the soft fleshy fruit, a layer of vanigliatura on the sweet seduction. I recognize, of the Molceo Ottelli, much pleasure. And it is definitely the style that today pays more in the market. The style followed by most manufacturers Lugana. But I - you know - I prefer the other school. The one that concedes nothing to the softness and sweetness. That of Ca and its Lojera Wolf in 2003. Lugana that is, for me - I've written several times - red masked by white (I also take this mica, definition, right?), And woe if no one takes out his sharp, rough soul that comes from clay of Lugana, the land was forest and swamp, first to see the vineyard. But you are always free to tell me I'm wrong. Or not say anything at all, as the consortium. Thank goodness there is at least Gino, in a quote. And certainly I have no doubt I worth not one, but sometimes not misrepresent him, and glory to His memory will be missed.
What do you say? What are touchy? Yes, its true: permalosissimo, admit it. But I would like to see you, for me, strawberry!
POSTSCRIPT: The escalamazione, strawberry!, Is not covered properly in my vocabulary (which I recognize to be generally more colorful relevant physiology and often figuratively masculine), but it taught me a certain person, and I find it appropriate, Having promised not to exceed, in writing.

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Quaranta and silence, and (perhaps) shared: Bardolino at the turn

Angelo Peretti
This time I give up. I've done it a few times in the past, and willingly Rifo once again: I leave my room for the intervention of others. And the other question is in Giorgio Tommasi, Cantina di Castelnuovo President, one of three consortiums of land on Lake Garda's eastern shore.
Tommasi should join me and Franco Cristoforetti (Villabella) and his friend Nereo Pederzolli, a journalist who I admire, at the meeting that the Consortium has organized the Bardolino Grape Festival: Harvest of the fortieth bardolino doc, was the theme. We were in Bardolino, I mean. In fact, he has participated, but I who was known as moderator of the meeting, I decided to put it on the chat, and I then asked to summarize. Only, rereading it, this intervention had written that I liked, and I asked him if I gave a copy, and right now I share the content. Because it's not so cionsueto in my thoughts Facciani benacense earth so all round.
me say at once, and mica to make the contrarian, I fully agree that not everything, but it is natural that may be so. And the point of sharing is not complete when - you read it - it speaks of vines, that Thomas would return to enhance the complexity, just as the origins of Bardolino, and I appreciate the intent that this would lead to remake the wine and salt that was nicely drinkable. And it is true, however, that says: the first zoning. In order to see which are really suited the vines on the ground floor. So already there is a distinction. Personally, though, and I wrote several times, I am terroirista: that is, I believe in terroir. More than in the vine, which I think only one of a hundred characters of the terroir, of course. So the only grape m'intriga part, especially because I want the wine trasparisse the soul of the place and the genius of the man who lives in that place, the genius loci, as if saying those things n'intende of sociology and the like.
That said, hooray! I like what I wrote Tommasi. And there I suggest reading. Which finally returns to earth in my thinking. And the revival bardolino could be there to get.

Producing a quality Bardolino
Giorgio Tommasi
I believe that when I was asked to express my opinion on how to produce a quality Bardolino, it is done because the Cantina di Castelnuovo, which chair, with its nearly three hundred members, is the largest producer of Bardolino, but also because for me, as Angelo Peretti, the first wine drunk was just the Bardolino (in fact, a few drops of Recioto of Lazise, \u200b\u200bin the first years of life ). And because I enjoy the reputation of being strict, perhaps too, in requiring compliance with rules that are aimed at obtaining quality wines. However, as I prepare
rearrange ideas to carry the theme, I realized how large it was compared to the need for synthesis and complex for me they are not really an expert.
It has presented the problem of defining what constitutes a quality Bardolino: For me, the wine is produced with best grapes from the traditional varieties in the right mixture, grown in the best vineyards within the zone delimited by the rules.
a definition may seem self-evident, but not all were, and I agree.
to follow step by step I see the proposed definition.
wine. For me, winemaking is simply favor and follow the natural process of fermentation, maceration and aging without introducing strange artifacts (eg the barrel), making best use of what technology offers us to reproduce on a large scale and with predictable results that millennia of experience have taught us.
traditional varieties. Here begins to emerge is an issue that very few wines, namely the presence of many varieties of grapes. I think it's impractical and probably unnecessary to return to the dozens of varieties used in fifty, a hundred or two hundred years ago. But some points are needed. Corvina and Rondinella are fine, but how to make a real without molinara Bardolino (almost always mentioned in the back label, but almost never present), without Negrara sangiovese and, without a hint of Garganega and fernanda? And then the most recently introduced varieties: yes to small amounts of merlot (which in our hills is of great quality) and Barbera, who have centuries-old tradition, the cabernet that has to do not like cabbage.
right mix. It is impossible to fix rates precise: for each producer the recipe. I will only record a tendency to overdo the corvina, probably owing to a shortage of quality grapes of the other varieties.
In the best vineyards. We are faced with another problem particularly acute in the area of \u200b\u200bBardolino: the exaggerated variability of the soil, coming from pedogenic substrates transported by the glacier in four ice ages (although only the last two are important). It is therefore essential to emphasize the importance of macro and micro zoning, which allows identification of the plots with different characteristics, but optimal for the cultivation of the vine, and those to be banned: this is, in my opinion, the priority absolute for Bardolino! We thought our ancestors had already relying on the experience of millennia, and now for many reasons we need to use modern scientific tools such as soil testing, microvinification, and so on.
Continuing to define the best vineyards hint at the kind of farming and planting density. Fortunately it is quite simple: that's fine Guyot, who also approaches the spin-head already used for some time (I cultivate vineyards set so that sixty years of age) and the densities are fine between four thousand and five thousand plants per hectare .
Concerning rootstocks and clones, we return to the complexity and problems. We are with vineyards in the last years of the century with vigorous rootstocks (such as the notorious Kober), too productive clones and expanded forms, which coexist with the new system certainly addressed to the quality, but still young to give us the best bunches. And on the clones is desirable to intensify efforts to re-select the few remaining ancient vineyards, so as not to fall into the standardization of the grapes.
without a reminder of agronomic practices, it would be too long. Just a thought: the vine needs to suffer a bit ', and then only possible relief irrigation.
Following the approach proposed, I believe that we get not one, but many Bardolino quality, which may from time to time, be ready, lightweight and to be drunk young, or more structured and suitable for aging a few years, with more or less color, more or less salty and so forth, but all unmistakably Bardolino.
Finally, a nod to the role of wineries: in every denomination, are critical to the balance of the supply chain and must be geared to reward the quality of the grapes. As early as 1903, when they were born the first cooperatives, the Marescalchi identified as the main problem, the evaluation of the grapes of members, listing six different ways to define quality. It spent more than a century, but the problem is always present. The difference is that today are investigational advanced technological tools that allow the measurement of key quality parameters.
The choice of how to remunerate the different grapes has a substantial effect on the behavior and decisions of the member, not only in the short, but in the medium and long term, affecting an entire area of \u200b\u200bviticulture.
conclude with best wishes on your birthday in Bardolino ... and as they say life begins at forty!
Giorgio Tommasi

And now I close by landlord, em'associo: forward with the next four.

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White almost there: San Martino della Battaglia

Angelo Peretti
This time I want to tell a white almost not there. In the sense that yes, there are bottles, but they are little. And, in fact you can only drink on the homeland. Because the earth is just a bit. Small. And we're with the wine grape unmentionable: Tocai Friulano implanted at the border of Lombardy-Veneto, but tocai say - you know - no, that otherwise EU lawmakers are crying, having decided that the name is just the Hungarians. And so once brought the wine label in the name Tocai di San Martino della Battaglia, and instead is now simply San Martino della Battaglia. And the name is that of a population of Desenzano del Garda. It has tiny vineyard on the sidelines of the clay also Bianchisti Bianchisti of Lugana. Low hills hinterland of Lake Garda. You
, San Martino, a land that still seems to drip the blood of the battle - the famous - the Risorgimento. And I wonder if you still write with a capital letter, the Risorgimento. And if schools are even now studying those fights. There, at San Martino and Solferino s'ammazzarono thousands, struck by musket balls that broke the limbs and sharp iron which tore the flesh. It was unheard of suffering: June 24, 1859, 40 thousand were killed and wounded. It was also, that pain absurdly huge generator of solidarity, by the locals. And lit by a Swiss, Jean Henri Dunant, who in those days of death and tears came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bthe Red Cross.
Now, I do not know how it is acquired instead the idea of \u200b\u200bplanting a vineyard in San Martino Tocai. Somewhere I read that it would be proper to bring to Furlani, because we would stop bringing cows in transhumance. Who knows.
I also know that after an initial success, the tocai sammartinese has slowly fallen into oblivion, and now there was hardly anyone who vinified, especially in times of prevailing red, the nineties. Now, however, the wave of white mount again. And maybe there's a hand in the success of his cousin Lugana. In short, here is that St. Martin is back to get out of the shell. It is a white who enforces. They do it in a few, make it a little, but it deserves attention, because you drink some good drinks.
Below you something on behalf of the three I have, in fact, drinking this year. Neither have the whole production, but there are neighbors, which I think there are two or three more just, and those, alas, is to me happened to the keys.
The price? I do not have, but - quiet - are a few Euros a bottle. So I am bowling to buy with confidence.
The order of tasting is alphabetical by company.
San Martino della Battaglia Pergola 2006 Civielle Civielle Valtenesi going to wineries and Lugana. The wine has almost golden color, traversed by veins herbaceous. Nose of ripe yellow fruit. Fleshy mouth well, maybe some 'sweets, here. And hints of chamomile (which are characteristics), and even tea. And there is good length and freshness integrated. It is not my style, with that soft, but it is well done. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
San Martino della Battaglia 2006 Cobu comes slowly to the nose of white flowers, and is therefore reluctant to florality this San Martino. The mouth is rustic. As a sandpaper rasp. It has freshness and relief under the chamomile and hints of hay and then not maturissimo yellow fruit, although high density. Wine seemingly simple, actually nice length and material. To observe. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
San Martino della Battaglia Field of the Chair in 2006 in Lake Hills I'd like to try it again now with the San Martino Formentini, because when I drank, at the end of June, was far too little in the bottle, and then closed again and shaken. But know that the range of the Chair is always nice wine, satisfying (I found the very good 2004). Fresco. Tasty. He pulp. White peach and clear memory. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

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Who will save the Valpolicellino? Those ten

Angelo Peretti
But look at you if you had to put the hail to save the Valpolicella vintage. Yeah, because those who took the storm in late August, at least in (good) part of the grapes he could collect the same, for had already been encouraging signs of aging, but the mica has been able to devote Amarone, it was bruised. So, I think (hope), to produce via (also) so mistreated Valpolicellino vintage, which might otherwise disappear. Yes, because now is a couple of years running insistent voice of a possible abandonment of the small radical almost Valpolicella doc, overcome the impetuous commercial success of its majesty and Prince Ripasso, Amarone, which increasingly amaroneggia. And then to devote all the red grapes to the super-valpolicellesi. Wilt, wither, is the watchword. All boxes of grapes used to make the loft. In spite of the young wine, for which you seek maybe only the grapes of younger vines, or what's left (it is) after the harvest for the Amarone, the Recioto to the Superior for the Review.
Why the abandonment of the little guy in favor of better performing relatives? Why pecunia non olet, as the Latins said. Translated and adapted into the local language: Schei Schei ago. And you can understand them (and Schei, Valpolicella, have made, in the wake Amarone seems to know no obstacle, which is really sensational.)
Rather, one might wonder whether in the medium to long term proves very appropriate decision to focus all on two types of wine purely technical (both are direct or indirect subsidiary of withering), directing for more communication on the only the note names for the technique, while putting more into the background and the name of terroir: who says more or Valpolicella Amarone della Valpolicella Ripasso? It simplifies, is shortened: Amarone, Ripasso, stop. And the Valpolicella tends to almost disappear from the language of wine making. So that in a survey commissioned by the syndicate has shown that some identify as the Amarone wine from Piedmont or of another land again.
That said, the question that someone asks me is: "But there is still a good Valpolicella vintage?" So that we can drink without rotear of glass, decanter and the like. With some hallway and a slice of polenta and a suppressed brostolà. And I say, despite everything, yes, there's some nice chilled wine. Of those francs to drink and fruity and juicy. And below gives an indication of an interesting quintet of 2006 that I tasted during the summer months. And not only are these the Valpolicellini to drink, but not everyone I could feel (for example, I have not felt the Ventura from San Floriano, usually I like it).
Valpolicella 2006 Blacks Hills Winery Montecchia Blacks Hills is the line. And the wine has no other claim than that, thank goodness, to be drinking, and well too. The nose is fruity sour cherry in the first place. Without exaggeration, but with clean material. It's under slight spice. The mouth is easy to drink and cool and slender. If only he had a hair long, in addition, a small potrebb'essere champion ... Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Valpolicella Classico 2006 Coati Court Rugolin I do bell'Amarone, elegant. But even their baby Valpolicella is one of those who leave their mark. Amarone in the opposite direction, of course, hence streamlining of the merger. But there is good between the nose and spicy fruttatino. And the mouth fresh, green, floral (memories of cyclamen). And there, below, a base of cherry and even discrete tannin. Beverley, agreeable. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 2006 Be ', yes, I had liked the most in previous vintages of the basic Valpolicella Allegrini, but even this is not bad 2006. Made with craft. Nose of fruit and spice. Fresh fruit and tannin and mouth. Intriguing notes of cyclamen with those of the cherry. Matters a lot. Here, some years we found more to drink, but still a nice glass. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Valpolicella Classico Valpolicella 2006 Buglioni Here: here's the cherry. Maybe not exactly an explosion of fruit, but is clean, clean. E mouth in this weblog valpolicellino Buglioni is simple yes, gulp with disengagement, but also well-modulated. Maybe a little 'green here, but the fruit and acidity in great evidence and a few notes well integrated tannins.
A happy little face and almost two :-)
Valpolicella Classico 2006 Camporeale Probably some people will find it a bit 'Dolcino, a little' morbidosetto, however, has Fruttino (cherry, strawberry) and Caramellina raspberry. The nose and mouth. Much to tip a soft approach, confidential, this little red Mario Lavarini. But he has quite long and, in short, a glass with a slice of it is young deleted. A happy little face
and nearly two :-)

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Soave that make me happy Faccini

Angelo Peretti
Sometimes t'incastrano. If you write in the newspapers, which happens to call you to make the moderator at conferences, debates and panel discussions. Often you can dodge, sometimes not. And almost always you are not moderate anything, but at most to act as a timer to the speakers, which are mica always faithful to the times that are assigned. In short, you feel a kind of ornament, and that's it, that he opens his mouth only to give and take away the word to others. It happens, and it is not one that we feel gratified.
The last time happened to me in time to the moderator to Soave Versus, the annual review of the Consortium Soave dedication to the protection of the white denomination. And I must say that it was not even that hard, because whoever did it had to intervene substantially in the time set, and so the conference - too long, like all conventions, but through no fault of those who had to speak - is almost finished scheduled time: just six minutes of slippage are a kind of record, especially considering that you started with the usual quarter of an hour late.
Now, it was a shame not being able to deepen the last speech, that of Stefano Raimondi, head of the line 'Drink wine and spirits "of ICE, the Institute for Foreign Trade. Because of number of slides he had prepared on the PC has not presented that a limited number, and inside you read data that was probably the case for more details. Sales data and commercial positioning of white wines from Veneto in the global market.
I'll try to summarize briefly some of the trends shown, and are grateful to Raymond of left me a printout of his slides.
First: the gap between exports and Italian reds and whites is narrowing. But at the same time to wines for years are substantially the same volume of sales abroad, as they grow, and quite a bit, table wines. In short: you export wine is cheap. And this observation is even more for whites in the Veneto region, which is the first exporting region: average prices are € 1.92 share, compared with a value of 2.55 euro for the Italian average. And if you want to get hurt with any other comments, well, 'a little bit worried to see that almost 80 per cent of exports Veneto wine is concentrated in four countries: Germany (with 41 per cent), the kingdom Kingdom (19 and passes), the United States (with 8 percent, which is as good, poor wretch, but when you consider the size of the market in stars & stripes) and Canada (and there are at 7 and more). Come fifth Japan, which is almost 6 per cent. People will say: Yes, but markets are Florida, and Germany is well-placed business partner. Sure, but the Germans pay very little our wine sales were concentrated there and does not give great added value. Better would be to convince the Americans, but what we already think of the Tuscans, who have in North America their prevailing market outlet, which far exceed the revenue for sales that make the whole of Europe. And you can meditate.
And the source is authoritative. The Ice s'occcupa promotion of Made in Italy on international markets. And has, in the wine industry, long tradition. Raimondi's office supports the presence of companies on international markets, fairs, workshops, communication, actions at the point of sale, training for foreign operators. Besides monitoring the markets, through the analysis of flows statistics (volume, value, type, source, destination etc.). Mica very little.
That said, I know that someone who reads between the quest'InternetGourmet has already come the headaches, so maybe the best wine. In some sense describe the wine of Soave. And as though I have not had the opportunity to taste all the time & Soave Versus (and indeed I am limited to keyboards here and there to try new things or to have some confirmation), I like last year and I take notes Tasting soavisti last couple of months, and I use those, taking into account other companies to Versus were not there. In mixture, then. And they are a dozen Soave (so far) I am so pleased. To the extent that it is ten in check, office, my three Faccini revelers.
Soave Classico Monte Fiorentine Ca 2006 Rugate Et voila, another year and another great Florentine in bloom. A white man who has a trademark, with her beautiful yellow fruit clean, crisp, juicy. That satisfying drink. That slenderness. And those subtle hints of minerality. And that hint of walnut on the bottom. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Cantina del Castello 2006 Presson Presson The m'è liked it a lot in past years, 2006 and this confirmed me, if proof were needed, the beauty of this cru soavista. Nose was extremely citrina footprint. It is also the citrus mouth. And fresh. And veins of pineapple fruit and nettle and white. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Ca 'Visco 2006 Coffele Be', what about the Ca Visco that I have not said before? It is a great wine. With all that yellow fruit on the nose. And that fruitful dense flesh that invades the palate. And that roughness of sandpaper rasp that gives you the language. And those plants that cool veins. And so long. And elegant. Three happy
Faccini :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Superiore Contrada Salvarenza Vecchie Vigne 2005 Gini There is a flowery meadow that opens in the glass when the smell Salvarenza 2006. It gives you flowers on the palate. And there's more in freshness and minerality in beautiful relief, and motioned grass officinale. The finish is dry, almost tannic, which I like to find in a Soave important. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Superiore Monte Sella, 2005 Mandola not remember if I've ever written before a wine Mandola. Yet remember that their Monte Sella desire I had already liked the 2004 and I have a lot more enjoyed in the 2005 version, with all that's ripe yellow fruit and ripe citrus and the spice that vein intriguing. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Monte Tondo Soave Classico 2006 Montetondo fruits and flowers. Yellow. There are so many of both the nose and mouth, at the Monte Tondo in 2006. And it has much flesh, so much. Epper also nice freshness that makes it juicy, salty and satisfying to drink. A great wine that I liked drinking it a few times already here in July. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Calvarino Soave Classico 2005 Soave Pieropan A Versus the Pieropan Nino does not expose. E Okay, but the Calvarino, drunk in July, is also memorable in the 2005 edition. With his power that is character and that power and the fatness of the fruit and nettle that vein and that memory of those nuances of tropical fruit and dried fruit. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
2005 Pra Soave Classico Staforte Last year, when I went down to the head of Staforte, the new Graziano Pra Soave, there were those who said I a prognosis, and indeed even wrote. Okay, now say what you want, but I like the 2005, and so much. With that beautiful fruit and juicy. And that tension to drink. And the flowers macerated. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Monte Carbonare 2006 Suavia Now, the club of great Soave, Tessari sisters if they are earning a place for some time, and coal is a confirmation of '06. There is floral nose (and which is added to the dried flower of grass) and the mouth between the citrus and salt. And softness that pampers you and also with power drink. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Le Bine of Costiola 2006 Tamellini M'era strapiaciuto 2004. In July, I loved the 2005. Now that Gary made me Tamellini trialling in 2006 (only two months in the bottle), I can say that is one of the most intriguing white that it took me to drink in recent years (and I've drunk, whites). Large and complex. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)