Angelo Peretti is known that gratitude is not of this world. And even less of the wine world. So do not surprise me in the land of quant'accade Lugana, now that you are finally awarded the first "star del Garda degustatoria in defiance of the" age of Lugana.
What it is, let him say to the press release I received: "The challenge called" The Age of Lugana "launched a few years ago by the Consortium wanted a commission of experts and press it to be assessed by comparing the same number of years and then reconfirming the following year. Tentatively producers which came first "experiment" were just ... "and so on. In fact, it was assessing a number of Lugana, put aside those that seemed to have a chance to improve over time, riassaggiarli the next year and the next, and if for three years in a row gave favorable results, then they are rewarded with the star of longevity. And the first three years that have passed the test are two Lugana 2003: Wolf of the Reserve and the Ca Lojera Molceo of Ottelli. Good.
But now I take the opening words of the press release, which is this: "It has always been called the" bet "on the longevity of Lugana and, if the bet was, now, in light of the evidence, we can say that it has been won. Yes, because only a few years ago, protected by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana Lugana Doc was offered to a group of senior journalists in the industry with the clear intention of debunking the belief that they wanted, because white wines are not suitable for proper aging and longevity. Lugana, and they said it was believed to be drunk young and fresh, preferably vintage. Among the non-believers will of the people of this great friend of the producers of Lugana, Luigi Veronelli, urged the producers, especially young people, to produce their Lugana then forget it for a few years in the cellar before you sell it, "you will find surprises and endless satisfaction, "he said. And once time was right. "
Right, absolutely right: Gino was right. But certainly I had it too. When I created this opportunity to compare the longevity Lugana, and Gino did not fit right.
You know, the gratitude is not of this world, and even the world of wine. But seeing as how it is born 'is not matter if it gives nod, I want to take away the fun (and have!) To put the facts straight, and explain.
So, the competition of the "age of Lugana" was in fact designed to house one evening - and then to dinner at his restaurant - Igino Cero (read Cà dei Frati). The year before I accepted the proposal by Paolo Fabiani (read Tenuta Roveglia), then chairman of the Consortium lugana - today is Francis Montresor (read Ottelli) - have to be placed sixth in the old contest of the star of the Garda. Only the samples that m'annoiai things, also because the formulation of priority by the tasting of wine he had made away with some nice wine, because - I believe - they had just considered 'typical' (ah, how many crimes along the way the typical!). In short, we made a little less wine than they foresaw the regulation. And then I explained the choices, in a memorable (for me, and for many producers, who still remember me) report: too much wood, too soft, too much oxidation, explained, a bit 'roughly even.
formula, I said, it was objectively old, outdated. Among the less convinced of the operation was Hyginus, who instead wanted something that would be able to shed light on the prerogatives of white Lugana in terms of ability to resist the passage of time (and beautiful bottles of yesteryear I Frati Lugana I could taste!). So, in a conversation, I pulled out the idea that the public judge the wines of the vintage in a sort of popular competition, but which reporters were asked to bet, in fact, the longevity of wine, with repeated sampling in the three years . In short, there is also my signature on this operation, thank goodness. But the press do not see any trace ohibò. But I understand: gratitude, and so on.
I say then that the contest still tasting of the "age of Lugana" I attended only the first year, my choice, so I was not there this time either, nor the previous one, and who needs to know the reason of absence, the know, but these are my chores, which do not detract from the wine. And I add that the two winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are really representative Lugana. And I had great doubts, however, that would be arrived at the finish. Moreover, had none in October already spoken two years ago. And if you understandably do not want to read the piece, I just report below quant'avevo then written on the two winning wines today.
First, the reserve of Ca 'del Lupo 2003 Lojera: "First wine to have passed the selection - I said - is the Lugana Riserva Cà del Lupo 2003 Lojera. For me, it's a genuine star. Lugana probably one of the best I've ever been given of taste. I've already drunk several times, and I always proved to be of enormous character. Perhaps difficult now to understand. Why still closed, nervous. But, to my mind, intended to fascinating future. It is made of steel. Only steel, no wood. Alcohol, although supported, is almost masked by a vivid freshness, quite unusual for a warm vintage which is a child. Emerge stench of citrus (lemon, grapefruit) and then citronella ed'erba mowing. The vegetables are all round. The minerality is there that would like to get out. The final, long, play in shades of green almond and colorofilla. Let it rest again, and give you satisfaction. I bet indeed. " The winning bet, then. And I am happy. And I confirm: the best Lugana I drank here (and I assure you that the button often the key and still frequently).
Now, Lugana Superiore Molceo Ottelli of 2003: "Then - then I wrote - the Lugana Molceo Ottelli of 2003. We are in the category of wines aged in wood. And Molceo again confirms a very good expression Lugana. Thick, fat, silky, yet also Citrine, lush sage. The passage in the barrel hardly feel it. You realize just for a vein of vanilla behind the large structure. It should not have their own problems to unravel the best in the three years that is. " And here too bet proved correct. And I am glad that Montresor know their stuff, and they work well, and is very good co 'white Prà Flavio, who is a consultant.
Now, another comment. Above I said that both the winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are representative Lugana. They represent, I mean, the two schools of thought Lugana. The first, to the Riserva Cà del Lupo Lojera, is a wine made from steel, that nothing grants to the smoothness, but is betting everything on freshness, and plant and mineral. The other, of Molceo Ottelli, switching back into the wood, and plays on the soft fleshy fruit, a layer of vanigliatura on the sweet seduction. I recognize, of the Molceo Ottelli, much pleasure. And it is definitely the style that today pays more in the market. The style followed by most manufacturers Lugana. But I - you know - I prefer the other school. The one that concedes nothing to the softness and sweetness. That of Ca and its Lojera Wolf in 2003. Lugana that is, for me - I've written several times - red masked by white (I also take this mica, definition, right?), And woe if no one takes out his sharp, rough soul that comes from clay of Lugana, the land was forest and swamp, first to see the vineyard. But you are always free to tell me I'm wrong. Or not say anything at all, as the consortium. Thank goodness there is at least Gino, in a quote. And certainly I have no doubt I worth not one, but sometimes not misrepresent him, and glory to His memory will be missed.
What do you say? What are touchy? Yes, its true: permalosissimo, admit it. But I would like to see you, for me, strawberry!
POSTSCRIPT: The escalamazione, strawberry!, Is not covered properly in my vocabulary (which I recognize to be generally more colorful relevant physiology and often figuratively masculine), but it taught me a certain person, and I find it appropriate, Having promised not to exceed, in writing.
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