Angelo Peretti
This was read in these days in Palermo were convicted of extortion, aggravated the three defendants who were accused of having asked for protection money to the historic San focacceria Francis, in the heart of the city. He had reported the owner.
the focaccia I've been there recently. We parked a car in front of the police. It was packed with people. Especially young people. I've eaten the loaves ca 'meusa, the sandwich with the spleen. For more married, that is enriched with cheese - I think it's cheese: Tavern on the say so of Italy - cut into strips, which melts when heated offal. How was it? Amazingly tasty. A touch of the past. Unique. If I go back out there, it is certain that I do another free ride.
In Florence I could not resist the charm of Horace Nencioni stand next to the Loggia of the Pig kiosks overflowing with clothing and leather. I just had lunch. But when I ran into the truck that served the sandwiches with the lamprey, well, 'how could I pass by? And what is the lamprey is obvious: tripe. A Case of Culinary resistance, "says Tavern, about the Florentine tripe. The boil and keep warm, to slice it in front of you. Then splàf, heated in the sandwich plate. Pesantuccia, but indispensable.
Li call now, street food, these rolls genuinely popular. Street food. Belong to the tradition. To save. To savor. In the face of continued restrictions sanitation. Sometimes, frankly incomprehensible.
will say: but how, you, Verona, love the sandwich when the mayor of Verona, in fact, forbids the consumption in the streets? Meanwhile, Tosi has prohibited camping on the monuments, and at La Scala voters will decide whether it is good or not. But I would say that he did well, considering the sandwiches that are sold in the center: with all the raw materials that are valuable in the province, what is the point that tourists s'ingozzino of plasticume?
And anyway, is not that I want sandwiches think along these lines. Rather than tradition. Of traditional food. And I say hurray, even, to festivals, if you eat with sacred chrism. Without becoming subject to the pre-cooked, mixed in, the envelope industry. A Pizzighettone in Cremonese, I happened by chance, a few days ago, the party of the oc fasulìn de cun the cùdeghe, and the title a bit 'm'inquietava. But the tasty soup (served in earthenware bowls) of the eye beans, almost impossible to find, and pork rinds (many) cooked long. You can have quality even in the streets, if you really respect for tradition. If you have a heart. Mica enslavement, distorting, plagiarism make money easy and maybe tax free.
Behold the culinary tradition. This is what is relevant. And not only for matters of the street or square. Not only that, of course, when there are half of offal (I eat willingly, it is understood). I see, more generally. a return - finally - to traditional cuisine. Italica. This is the restaurant that works today. The rest live on the air time of crisis. Provided it is not just fashion, fleeting.
In fact, I think the world of food (the good quality, I mean, there's too many people amman crap) it can be split in two. Taverns (inns) and restaurants altogether.
The first, the restaurants for me are the ones that they ought to do, in fact, tradition. With products of the territory, with typical features of the site, with ancient wisdom. But beware: It must have good product, which otherwise is the farce, and in the name of traditional atrocities brought to the table. Before the value of the raw material, in any case. And, together, to respect the dietary history. Maybe lighten it, of course: mica need now to give too much substance to the stomach feel full. And so less sauce, less greasy, and maybe, if possible, cook more moderate and short, which do not lead to the pulping dish. But this is, again, the mission of the restaurant of preserving the tradition. It can also be nineteenth-century bourgeois cuisine: veal with tuna sauce, for example. But do not cut with the rocket, please.
the restaurant has a further role. That is to apply wit to quality raw materials, which are the place (I prefer) or not. And there must be Service adeguatissimo. Because this is not just experience throat, but instead must be all-round feast for the senses. It's the place where you go to eat, but to make the evening. So just pot, right glass, right tablecloth, perfect location, right ambience, right time, right temperatures. In short, attention to detail, the nuance. And that takes effort and commitment, of course. It means maybe not low in price. But justified, or at least justifiable. Who cares if the kitchen is the creative force applied to the reinterpretation of tradition or the creativity in the round. You pay the total genius. Here he won his head, thinking.
In common, the restaurant of my heart and my head restaurant, have one thing: the search for the product. They have the chef or owner, who goes to market early in the morning to try to make that kitchen. What is not content to order over the phone and wait for the van. And indeed they also share another, equally important factor: the sense of hospitality, acceptance, respect for the client, lest the people you does do so vex the market, in the hall, among the pots?
is in the middle of everything. The places where you feed in some way. With all the same raw materials, taken from those usual three or four suppliers that take you around the house and more. And here you slam on the table to eat the stuff and just consider you a number: "Coffee at 16," you hear screaming, and you're not a person, but you're low, in fact, a number, what is written on table, on those narrow, greasy placeholder. And then maybe, at the time of the account, pay your equally thirty, forty euro, but are not very small price.
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