Angelo Peretti
in August I wrote two years ago: "Make way for the new Groppello.
Now, the wine in question is Groppello Valtenesi, Lombard shore of Lake Garda. Valtenesi I write with an accent, because I do not expect everyone to know this plague Garda and they know where they drop the emphasis, as you pronounce the name, in fact. And after some time, I'm just glad to see that I was a good prophet. The new Groppello not say which is grown and who became an adult, but certainly it was born. Believe me there great vitality in the land of Valtenesi, and reiterate the emphasis.
Groppello n'avrei drunk with great pleasure to tell. And I will do the week is: a little patience. This time I want to say something on grapes and its current management and future.
The grapes, therefore: groppello is native to, and it is good. And it is indeed a value. But frankly, that concept in Italian wine are mounting the fashion of autochthony ampelographic makes me a bit creepy 'skin, I can not stand the fashionable trends that periodically emerge in the world of the bottles. I do not give anything that the variety possesses indigenous pedigree, if you do then with that grape wines of ignoble drink. And perhaps even less if it m'intriga traggan wines made correctly - Winemaker compounds, winemaker of homework, but good - if not then I know to describe the earth and man, if I do not know how to tell of their terroir, in fact. And if that describes this wine rather well its terroir, and most importantly is the son of native grape, then I'm very pleased, rejoices. But it is the vine, remember well, the only component to be considered important, because otherwise you justify as typical errors in the vineyard and winery.
Now, groppello vine is certainly worthy of interest. But it is not a champion. In the sense that for us we must construct wine very busy. It has no color, this grape. Rustichello often gives tannin. It is not loose (the name, groppello, is to lump the rest, from grapes with grapes tightened to each other) and then it is likely that the attack fungi, molds. And maybe then (but I'd say maybe not) needs to shoulder, maybe the company does: and therefore put together a little 'of other grapes does not hurt, indeed. Conversely, I like it very much that his tone of strawberries, which together with the business of light color made me say, other times - and did not take to tackle - that reminds me of the Burgundian pinot noir, and that therefore the potrebb'essere the reference for those who want to make wine in Valtenesi.
Beware: they are coming to appreciate, the wine growers of the area. And they're pulling out more and more good bottles. Hurry up in the area, if still not popular.
The breakthrough seems to me there comes the final. I must say that although the four steps would help a lot. And I try to talk about it below.
The first: better know the main grape. I know who has started a project groppello by the Consorzio del Garda Classico. So the hope is that the project should be sent forward, perhaps alongside a few researchers at the university while willing to technical site.
The second: to learn more about the land, the territory. Need a draft zoning and mica in the classical sense just is not enough, that is, to be told if quell'ettaro is suitable or not the plant that this grape, but I also want to know which characters aromatic grapes he gets from this soil, the climate, the 'exposure. Essential information, if I want to design wines of balance and elegance, finesse and harmony.
The third, leaving the grapes. Alas, the vignerons of Valtenesi - too many, though certainly not all - with the press still love their red grape variety, and therefore groppello and barbera and sangiovese and marzemino, but also for some time more and more Rebus. I think that is an error, grapes still do, rather than to blend. Impossible, absolutely impossible, that all the grapes ripen at the same time. They serve different vinification, aging separated, and then make the cut. Which will vary from year to year, because every year is different, thank goodness. The fourth
: learn quick drying. Not nascondiamocelo: groppello with - which is not suitable grapes, because the compact rather than loose - so often a bit 'of drying, and the thing that I can help. But flash is almost always conducted empirically Thirty days because it has always done so, for tradition. Without question, however, how those grapes changes, modifications, shape their own flavor profile at varying days (giorni!) drying. Lacking scientific evidence, analytical, ch'aiutino the winemaker. The gap must be filled immediately. And then I saw too many local withering entirely inappropriate: all'umidore exposed districts, robbers, without any adjustment.
said that, however they have made important steps forward, convincing, compelling on the forehead of the 'red Valtenesi. And I'm sure - I repeat, I repeat, I confirm, I stress, notes, highlights - that you are ready to take flight. The hype, already: make great red wines. Sure. Rossi Valtenesi. Memo: terroir. With the added value dell'autoctono.
What are 'sti wines? Be patient - repeat - until the next episode.
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