Angelo Peretti
This time I give up. I've done it a few times in the past, and willingly Rifo once again: I leave my room for the intervention of others. And the other question is in Giorgio Tommasi, Cantina di Castelnuovo President, one of three consortiums of land on Lake Garda's eastern shore.
Tommasi should join me and Franco Cristoforetti (Villabella) and his friend Nereo Pederzolli, a journalist who I admire, at the meeting that the Consortium has organized the Bardolino Grape Festival: Harvest of the fortieth bardolino doc, was the theme. We were in Bardolino, I mean. In fact, he has participated, but I who was known as moderator of the meeting, I decided to put it on the chat, and I then asked to summarize. Only, rereading it, this intervention had written that I liked, and I asked him if I gave a copy, and right now I share the content. Because it's not so cionsueto in my thoughts Facciani benacense earth so all round.
me say at once, and mica to make the contrarian, I fully agree that not everything, but it is natural that may be so. And the point of sharing is not complete when - you read it - it speaks of vines, that Thomas would return to enhance the complexity, just as the origins of Bardolino, and I appreciate the intent that this would lead to remake the wine and salt that was nicely drinkable. And it is true, however, that says: the first zoning. In order to see which are really suited the vines on the ground floor. So already there is a distinction. Personally, though, and I wrote several times, I am terroirista: that is, I believe in terroir. More than in the vine, which I think only one of a hundred characters of the terroir, of course. So the only grape m'intriga part, especially because I want the wine trasparisse the soul of the place and the genius of the man who lives in that place, the genius loci, as if saying those things n'intende of sociology and the like.
That said, hooray! I like what I wrote Tommasi. And there I suggest reading. Which finally returns to earth in my thinking. And the revival bardolino could be there to get.
Producing a quality Bardolino
Giorgio Tommasi
I believe that when I was asked to express my opinion on how to produce a quality Bardolino, it is done because the Cantina di Castelnuovo, which chair, with its nearly three hundred members, is the largest producer of Bardolino, but also because for me, as Angelo Peretti, the first wine drunk was just the Bardolino (in fact, a few drops of Recioto of Lazise, \u200b\u200bin the first years of life ). And because I enjoy the reputation of being strict, perhaps too, in requiring compliance with rules that are aimed at obtaining quality wines. However, as I prepare
rearrange ideas to carry the theme, I realized how large it was compared to the need for synthesis and complex for me they are not really an expert.
It has presented the problem of defining what constitutes a quality Bardolino: For me, the wine is produced with best grapes from the traditional varieties in the right mixture, grown in the best vineyards within the zone delimited by the rules.
a definition may seem self-evident, but not all were, and I agree.
to follow step by step I see the proposed definition.
wine. For me, winemaking is simply favor and follow the natural process of fermentation, maceration and aging without introducing strange artifacts (eg the barrel), making best use of what technology offers us to reproduce on a large scale and with predictable results that millennia of experience have taught us.
traditional varieties. Here begins to emerge is an issue that very few wines, namely the presence of many varieties of grapes. I think it's impractical and probably unnecessary to return to the dozens of varieties used in fifty, a hundred or two hundred years ago. But some points are needed. Corvina and Rondinella are fine, but how to make a real without molinara Bardolino (almost always mentioned in the back label, but almost never present), without Negrara sangiovese and, without a hint of Garganega and fernanda? And then the most recently introduced varieties: yes to small amounts of merlot (which in our hills is of great quality) and Barbera, who have centuries-old tradition, the cabernet that has to do not like cabbage.
right mix. It is impossible to fix rates precise: for each producer the recipe. I will only record a tendency to overdo the corvina, probably owing to a shortage of quality grapes of the other varieties.
In the best vineyards. We are faced with another problem particularly acute in the area of \u200b\u200bBardolino: the exaggerated variability of the soil, coming from pedogenic substrates transported by the glacier in four ice ages (although only the last two are important). It is therefore essential to emphasize the importance of macro and micro zoning, which allows identification of the plots with different characteristics, but optimal for the cultivation of the vine, and those to be banned: this is, in my opinion, the priority absolute for Bardolino! We thought our ancestors had already relying on the experience of millennia, and now for many reasons we need to use modern scientific tools such as soil testing, microvinification, and so on.
Continuing to define the best vineyards hint at the kind of farming and planting density. Fortunately it is quite simple: that's fine Guyot, who also approaches the spin-head already used for some time (I cultivate vineyards set so that sixty years of age) and the densities are fine between four thousand and five thousand plants per hectare .
Concerning rootstocks and clones, we return to the complexity and problems. We are with vineyards in the last years of the century with vigorous rootstocks (such as the notorious Kober), too productive clones and expanded forms, which coexist with the new system certainly addressed to the quality, but still young to give us the best bunches. And on the clones is desirable to intensify efforts to re-select the few remaining ancient vineyards, so as not to fall into the standardization of the grapes.
without a reminder of agronomic practices, it would be too long. Just a thought: the vine needs to suffer a bit ', and then only possible relief irrigation.
Following the approach proposed, I believe that we get not one, but many Bardolino quality, which may from time to time, be ready, lightweight and to be drunk young, or more structured and suitable for aging a few years, with more or less color, more or less salty and so forth, but all unmistakably Bardolino.
Finally, a nod to the role of wineries: in every denomination, are critical to the balance of the supply chain and must be geared to reward the quality of the grapes. As early as 1903, when they were born the first cooperatives, the Marescalchi identified as the main problem, the evaluation of the grapes of members, listing six different ways to define quality. It spent more than a century, but the problem is always present. The difference is that today are investigational advanced technological tools that allow the measurement of key quality parameters.
The choice of how to remunerate the different grapes has a substantial effect on the behavior and decisions of the member, not only in the short, but in the medium and long term, affecting an entire area of \u200b\u200bviticulture.
conclude with best wishes on your birthday in Bardolino ... and as they say life begins at forty!
Giorgio Tommasi
And now I close by landlord, em'associo: forward with the next four.
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