Angelo Peretti
Let me tell you: I am not mica prosperous times, these people, for the tenants of the Verona side of Lake Garda. Bardolino is undergoing a crisis of identity: it saves (and saves the economic accounts) Chiaretto, which is periodic trend of pink. The Custoza is more popular, wake of the revival of interest for whites, but the prices are certainly not the stars and maybe even here there is some communication gap to be bridged. It is not to be missing, both to and from that of bardolino Custoza, producers who do things right, and indeed there are wines that I consider of great bell'espressione, but there's way - a lot - going to give recovered a better perception. Now, whether born in the inland Lake Garda right now a new store devoted to the creed of Custoza and Bardolino itself is a (good) news. To greet with enthusiasm by some, that might be the inkling of a turning point: new investment will help everyone, believe me. And it is more if one considers that these newcomers have decided to take the bull by the horns, pointing to wines with personality. I confess that
Massimo Ronca and his decision to Sommacampagna wine I had never heard of before. Before the day, I mean, where in the inbox I found the call at the opening of his winery. Pdf of an elegant setting, the area is not running not so like that. And I am surprised to see pictures of the bottles: three white and red all in Burgundy, and is another anomaly in an area where the depopulated Bordeaux. And most labels with graphics minimalist-modern that does not go unnoticed. Packaging and labels assigned to an art director, Marco Campedelli.
I confess: the first intention was to let go. I wondered if it was really possible that someone might seek to put money on making wine in this area. And I shrugged. Never have preconceptions, and I have had: I was thinking about some upstart that he wanted to do so the winemaker for fashion. Then the pictures of those bowls atypical continued - fortunately - to tease. And, in fact, the opening did not go, I do not really like the transit events. But I made an appointment and I have showed up in a few days later via Val di Sona, which is a small street, which we take the path that Sommacampagna from the highway leads to Busselton, just before the railway bridge: go to a ceramics factory and it was here before you enter through the vineyards. Or rather, you enter one of the first acres of kiwi (and those continue to make enough), because the vines are a bit 'above, on the hill: a twenty hectares, from which it drew grapes give the wine cooperative. And now for me this was a kind of slap, which I found contradicted the idea that they were newcomers: the grapes are from '76 Ronca, not yesterday. Seventy per cent for Custoza, the rest to Bardolino. Then, by 2006, the decision to go it alone. And to call to interpret the vineyard and terroir Enrico Paternoster & Roberto & Gianni Gasperi Lechthaler, all people who knows her and has bell'esperienza. Chapeau. Among
vineyard and winery, so I could converse with this Massimo Ronca, who is young producer em'è seemed really intends to talk about himself for his choices. N'ha already made degl'impianti also committed to consistent production: steel small, to take separate each pressing, any portion of the vineyard (for now there is no barrel of wood), then making cuvée . And even the vineyard has run on the new imprint, with a restyling of the old things and the laying of new rows. Clear that it will take time to see the full results. And it is equally clear that, meanwhile, s'imbottiglia only a small part, and the rest goes away in a tank: Mica is possible that an overnight find the strength to sell hundreds of thousands of bottles and more. But the little, and it is only the first year, I considered it quite interesting, so here I am to account for them.
I say, that seemed to me that the wines of the first year, one in 2006 - are four labels - are all well done. And I seem rather intended to give even a little better impression 'coll'affinamento later in the glass. I believe that trying again in the fall you can find them grown, and I hope to have chance to test it again. And anyway, are wines that have character and do not want to follow fashion piacione: dry, bone-dry, not too often that the Morbidoni of you are around. Well. And I say to myself that it takes courage and determination (and perhaps a bit 'of unconsciousness) to put themselves in such an adventure, but anyway, the point of departure is already looking up. And if a good day starts in the morning, I expect good things from harvest to come, when the vineyards and the refurbishing of new planting will bear fruit even clearer. So I encourage the undertaking.
Ordunque, the four wines of this newly aziend'agricola Ronca.
Custoza Tera 2006 The name is in dialect: earth, it's like. That's almost a declaration of intent. The grapes are Garganega and Tocai (here called Trebbianello) in almost equal measure. And I say that white is the most intriguing of smell I have ever smelt in recent years in Lake Garda area. Memoirs of balsamic pine wave expands from the glass. And under white fruit (and pear). And dry white flower. Good well as the mouth, which has nice progression: first the fruit, so much, then the freshness of saline, and the finish is dry. It has good flesh. Maybe I want more length, but give it some time. Meanwhile, I enjoy the fragrance. Costa
in the basement to private 4.70 € for a bottle (27 case of 6). Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Garganega 2006 Cami Cami is going to Camilla, the daughter of the owner. Garganega is the grape of the place par excellence. On the nose, white flowers: chamomile. And hints of green chlorophyll. And white fruit. Nice bouquet, really. Mouth tight. Material. Dry finish, a white race. There is a vein a little 'I'd rather not be bitter, but I think over the months will tend to disappear. Costa
4.50 € (25.80 in cash.) Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
White MEUI 2006 Gallicism crippled in the name, but yeah ... Most tocai, grapes, and then a bit of pinot blanc. And the same balsamic Custoza. It hints of fine flowers. And the result: the nectarine, white, when it is still crunchy, not quite ripe. Great flavor in the mouth & salinity. And long. It might. Maybe the trickle of bad taste in most, but even here there is time to leave. Costa
5.50 € (31.80 in cash) Two
Faccini happy :-) :-)
Bardolino 2006 Erre Erre going to Ronca. Or red, you name it. And it pays no attention to that Bardolino formalisms: ripe fruit and tannin. Corvina eighty percent. The rest is almost swallow, and even abandoned elsewhere Molinari, who is in the vineyard and then why not use it? Nose of clove, cinnamon stick to, from candied orange peel. And ripe strawberries. In the mouth there is tension, and fruit, and slightly herbaceous streak, and spice. Bardolino to drink and, I think, even more interesting if you have patience to wait. Costa
4.80 € (27.60 in cash.)
For now, almost two and a face :-).
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