Angelo Peretti
turning point of the year. So an appointment with my personal ranking of the best bottles tasted in the first six months of 2007. Fifteen in all, lined up alphabetically: no categories. But if you really want to go to categorize, I say that there are six whites and five reds and two bubbles and two sweet wines (one white, one red). Missing rose, but only because I want them riassaggiare, the ones that I am loved, and how to keep time.
I know, probably of little interest to my readers of what I like. But let's put it this way: have any advice for buying, trend lines, the opportunity to recall things that I have already spoken and bowls to name which you may not speak in other sections. Some memorable is easier to find on the market, sometimes it's more difficult to find. In short, good luck to those who want to try to put to the test by replicating the taste.
I said a year ago that a review on trends in the world of wine I'd begun to do: more red and soft fruit (and even relatively young to drink) and white playing on the acidity, the freshness on life. I think that we can confirm the prediction on white, and the decline now enshrined in the transition wood. As for reds, well, 'I still see confusion, because they continue to have very successful soft red fruit (what about the triumphant march Ripasso and Amarone, which have almost sent into the small attic Valpolicella?), But while the Bordeaux back in the limelight, the real ones, certainly not on the power play, but elegance, the subtlety, and self-criticism made in Burgundy, has run well again, beginning to tone down the rhetoric (color density) to return to tradition. And in America there is increasing discussion of wines from cool climates, which have in fact drink more than muscle power. And then there is the other trend, which will also be fashionable, but I'm glad, because I'm always kind of drinker: that of the rose, exploded by now the whole planet. Still, the bubble is a good evergreen, and you drink a lot of champagne around (have you noticed how many wine bars have been equipped with two or three types of French bubbles, and as they revolve more and more brands and new?).
Now what is most pleasing to me.
remains intact passion for the German Riesling and old Bordeaux, Médoc especially, no doubt: My references to wine making, the one in white, the other in red.
Privilege still the world Bianchisti. They're like more and more strange, incredible Jura whites, those with oxidative their veins combined with a freshness that leaves bocc'aperta. And they continue to like the whites of the Loire chenin grapes based. Having to choose between the Italian white inclined to Soave, and there is only one in the charts, and repeated from last year, for the tastings I have done almost everything in these first days of July, so if anything will be in the top of end of the year. Among the reds Italy, however, when I saw a good Nebbiolo not disdain to uncork some too bad happen to me too few times to drink Barolo. If you drink bubbly, I forgive the vigneron from our own, but the point on the Champagne.
In any case, when someone asks me what my favorite wine, I answer in an elementary way: the good one. And that kindness It must have something to say. If not what fun is it?
And now, off the alerts.
Arbois Savagnin Cave de la Reine Jeanne 2003 Stephane Tissot White. One of those white strange and complex and difficult to do in the Jura. Nose layer, which evolves slowly, long. Correspondence to taste. To be kept in a glass and enjoy the evolution. Medlar, overripe fruit, nuts, camphor, spice. And long. And freshness. Drunk in May.
Arbois Solstice 2002 Domaine de la Tournelle White. Good grief, another Arbois. I had been drinking in May 2005 em'era very pleased. Meet (ribevendolo) in January 2007, the pleasure is amplified. Rustic, old. Nose medlar and wild walnut. Mouth of yellow flower soaked and almond. Drink snappy and satisfying length. Heroic.
2001 Luigi Pira Barolo Marenca Red. And now, a good Barolo is a good Barolo, and this would be enough. In short, if that Nico Orengo that the Barolo has to be combination of violet and licorice, that's true Barolo. He got three glasses Gambero & Slow, and the jury is condivisibilissimo. Bright red, bright red. Elegant and exciting. Drunk in March.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2004 Francois et Denis Clair Red. Now maybe you do not impression this Burgundian Pinot Noir. But then here is the purple Fruttino and take possession of the palate and will not settle down et'avvincono muscle but by grace. Then you understand why the guide Hachette has given the coup de coeur, and the three stars. Ribevuto in January.
Aÿ Champagne Brut Grand Cru Fut de Chene 1995 Henri Giraud Bolle. Ah, bubbles, good bubbles! A lot of fruit, a small, forest & woodland (black currant, medlar, wild apple tart), fascinating, perennial in the nose and mouth. Warm croissants, fresh bread. Carbon dioxide fully integrated. Very elegant, aristocratic Champagne drunk in February.
Champagne Brut Reserve Grand Cru André Beaufort Bolle. As a brioche with apricot, soft, fragrant with butter and fruit. So this seemed to me Champagne. Organically grown grapes. Creamy and maybe some 'Dolcino, old fashioned. But I have a drink and another and another. Seductive silkiness. In May: bottle disgorged in January 2006.
1996 Château Haut-Medoc Red Sociando-Mallet. Elegant nose, with spicy & fruity. Fascinating balsamic notes. Fruit and eucalyptus. Gripping tannins. Drinkable wine and roasted together, that you are deceived, because it seems easy and is instead complessissimo. The distance grows, becomes increasingly fine. And yet young. Very good, very good. Drunk in May.
Nahe Riesling Beerenauslese 1976 Bingerbrücker Abtei Rupertsberg Schlösschen am Mäuseturm Dolce. I have hoarded a few bottles every now and n'apro: good to very good. In May, amazing. Canned figs, dried apricot, chestnut honey, vanilla, spicy German cookies, thyme, balsamic herbs. Freshness & softness. Thrilling.
Nahe Riesling Kabinett 2004 Hermann Oberhauser Leistenberg Dönnhoff White. I like the Germanic Riesling, Riesling And this is nice. With that nose that combines flowers and resins and mineral veins. And the drink that is absolute gratification. And the balance between freshness and softness. Drunk in January, ribevuto in June. Time passes and the memory remains.
Pauillac 1993 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Premier Cru Red . When you say the fine, at least for what I think, there is no body structure, tannin, alcohol, fruttone, gym taking. And it's the finesse to make this red wine from a round of applause. Binds to harmony and elegance, is stretched lazily on the fruit. He has long, persistent. Drunk with joy, in April.
Poully Mademoiselle de T-Fumé Chateau de Tracy White 05. Oh, well, you want: if I drink a Loire Sauvignon has to be, because there is not boring track plant, but flower, and then. And this here is a nice Sauvignon, sissigori and fascinated with the bouquet. And he Fruttino white and small and yet also boasts attractive freshness and harmony. Drank the bottle in January.
Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti Moron Vineyards Winery 2000 Dolce Negrar . I remember a finalist for the three glasses, this Recioto valpolicellese, but without the guidance of 2003. At a distance, made himself even more elegant, almost austere. Captivates the sweetness, but increasingly intrigued by the spicy, complex. Dried flower is added. In January.
Savennieres-Coulée-de-Serrant Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 1980 Nicolas Joly White. Joly is also a storyteller, and in fact will also have the image of the guru with his being the world's leading bio-dynamic, but the old bottles of Coulée de Serrant are really good. Shows no sign of yielding this chenin 80. Drunk in February.
2005 Soave Monte Fiorentine Ca Rugate White. Oh, well, I know I repeat myself and that I have already entered the top 2006, but continues to strapiacermi after Strabo and only if there are other bottles. I insist: it is the joyous result that emerges from the glass. For me, a white which is the benchmark for those who want to drink wine & nature together. Ribevuto in April.
Valpolicella Classico 1999 Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso Superiore . The Bepi is Bepi, and wines which have his imprint, his unique style. And if you n'innamori can be a trouble ... But love knows no barriers, it is said, therefore, let yourself be enchanted by this noble fruit velvety, enveloping, powerful, warm & drinkable together. In May.
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