Angelo Peretti
The syndrome risk is the son of a lesser god. From poor branch of the family. But no. Instead, these basalts are the Garganega and the other thing.
I was recently a couple of times in Gambellara, stuck on the border land of Vicenza Verona. First stop for a tasting of local whites together with a group of producers, hosted by the Consortium for the post doc. Second visit to the winery, for a couple of things m'avevano their curiosity. And m'incuriosiva particularly want to understand if the world co-operation was in some way on the wavelength of the little ones, seemed convinced that I had. I must say that I found favorable response, although the street, clearly, there is something to be done. In short I realized that there, a stone's throw from the capital that is Bianchisti Soave, there is, as I said, other garganega growing on basalt and which may give good bottles and that the way to get there has been embarked . Next, then. We must believe it. We must believe the vigneron. Without suffering from para-soavesi loyalties. Without attempting unlikely imitations. Building an autonomous path. What are you looking to terroir. That is reality
Gambellara semidisowned. The country is little one, and there I found very attractive in terms of architecture, urban landscape (a center of the Venetian countryside like so many others) and is quite beautiful, and green, and almost savage at times, and plenty of vineyards and hills. There's black stone, its basalt, up those hills. Ground of the volcano, which must be apparent in the wine. And pity that the basalt have dug a little 'wildly in the years of hunger, when you had to work all at crear costs. With the cost, for example, of bringing down an old small church off to the quarry. It is not where porous basalt and red tufa is calling them togo. And this is a land of vineyards and fine wine.
Inside the village, in Gambellara, the building is perhaps the most beautiful old building that houses the Consortium. Right in front of the seat of one of the largest companies Italian wine, Zonin, something with the name of the local doc bottles, but now as the residual share, for the attentions are well outside the territory of Vicenza, with investments - important - he has done in almost all of Italy. Now
grapes, which as I said is Garganega (or perhaps Garganega, the male, as someone says here), which is vocatissima daughters for land of volcanoes. As for the doc, the appellation of origin shall take in, along with Gambellara, three other municipalities that are Montebello Vicentino, Vicenza and Montorso Zermeghedo, a name that sounds like a tongue twister. Little more than a thousand acres in all. We do, in the doc, most wines. The Gambellara, in fact, white, Gambellara Classic, reserved to the vineyards of the hill, and then Recioto, sweet, dried Garganega grapes, and sparkling and still Recioto finally the strangeness that is the Vin Santo, whose existence must be act of faith, since no one, absolutely no taste I've done in two visits.
Now, I know they're trying to approve the designation provided for Recioto and, as I understand, for the Classic. And a little 'me shake your wrists, given the substantial failure of the other guaranteed accessible in recent years in the Veneto region: the superior of Soave and Bardolino are never taken off, and attempts Recioto di Soave. Val really worth? And most importantly, it is worth imposing changes to the specification for the DOCG to spin in a farming area has always been oriented to the pergola? It is not that upset, so, the wine, and seeks to make more wine grapes than of terroir? Better to meditate a little, I'm afraid. It is an invitation.
I must also say the world's production. Impression: that there is - there can be - just the right mix of world consortium and private initiative that has marked the success of other lands of the wine. It is important that you find harmony between the two components. And that points to the quality.
Moreover, some of the winemaker is the place for some years on the yearbooks of the wine of distinction: I think of Dal Maso, in Cavazza. And then there's the winery, which the habit has run off her current social and thus the name is now called Cantina Gambellara. And the visit was of interest because it is true that are still so many bottles and bulk-to-screw-cap (the rest of the nearly four hundred proprietors there's several in the plains, and much of those vineyards is objectively cavarci difficult), but there is good hand of winemaker and clear ideas in management. Thank goodness, I think they will get it. Other
meditation which I entrust to the vigneron Gambellara. They're pushing it, proudly, on Recioto and Vin Santo. To differentiate itself, and then emerge. Let them do so, for goodness sake, do it. But beware: not s'accreditino as wine producers focused on sweetness. Do not commit this error of communication. That their assets are instead garganega on basalt, and then the dry white and mineral character. Not distract from the objective truth. Please.
Now, some wines. Is right to give the idea, at least briefly. Putting together the best of things tried in two visits I have said. With double points, in hundredths of pleasure and Faccini.
Gambellara Classico 2006 Ca Fischel Dal Maso Bel white, gentlemen, beautiful white. Dal Maso I know them for some time. And I appreciate it. Here is flesh and substance Epper also freshness and cleanliness and length and vein mineral hours just mentioned, but already exciting.
86/100
Three Happy Face :-) :-) :-)
Gambellara Classico Virgilio 2006 Vignato If I understand it, that's an experimental wine that I tasted when it was still in the tank, and that I would then have opportunity to try again. Rustic, wild, yet full of fruit, nervous, mineral.
83/100 trust
Two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Gambellara Classic Paiele 2006 John Minds quest'aziendina I bet on. I bet because I find personality in Paiele, and I am convinced that keeps just fine and that if the distance from that n'esce his introverted and will be even more interesting mineral. Two 80/100
Faccini happy :-) :-)
Gambellara Togo 2006 Classic Winery Gambellara Hats off to the winery, where he pulls out 'ste bottles from the hillside vineyards. Boy, that is a pleasure to drink, and fruit and length. Maybe you'd like a fresh coat longer, but wine is fine, sure. Two 80/100
Faccini happy :-) :-)
Gambellara Classic Top Brume 2006 Cantina Gambellara me that have challenged the young people there, and me ricontesteranno. And I appreciated the say, it is not easy to numbers with this operation. Mira immediacy, pushes the aroma, but for heaven's sake is nice! Two 76/100
Faccini, in relation to the type :-) :-)
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