Angelo Peretti
boil or fry, heat is hot. If nothing else, when it is wet I am account to be hot, if not wet, I have the feeling that someone is cooking on the sly.
The beginning is not mine. And Joe R. Landsdale. The book is a noir, one of his, Hap and Leonard series. It's called "Mucho Mojo". Compelling and foul-mouthed as the others. Einaudi Editore, necklace freestyle.
The beginning is not mine, but it is very hot all the same. It happens even when it is hot to say things a bit 'so. Middle weird. So be it.
So tell me, are you, like me, those who prefer to drink the wine of the area? Who like the bottles of tenants? They adore the spirit of terroir? Be 'cautious go there. And learn a little formula mathematics. What I would call the "threshold 8000," and then explain what it is and therefore I hold you a little more 'on the grill, just to stay on the subject of hot.
The problem is this: are we sure that this wine so much that we liked is that their grapes from this manufacturer? To be sure, we must make an act of faith. Or go for accuracy. Because of grapes and grape musts and wines in tanks in Italy will run, oh run it! All a bustle of wine along the Italic highways, expressways, state, provincial, and so on. So trust is good, but ...
You can argue, is the label. In fact, the label (in fact almost always on the back, but it is one that contains descriptions of the law, and therefore, would technically be the true label) is any indication. If it is written that the wine is "produced and bottled by" it should mean that the chain is in the hands of the producer, but if you write only "bottled by" means that whoever signs the wine has run limited to just put in the bottle, and then if there is even "bottled by ... on behalf of ... 'then it is just a trading game.
In France, in France, which has old history of names and classifications a little 'older than ours, it may be that the label you write instead of this wine is a "négociant 'and that other one a' vigneron Récoltant ', which is a bit' clearer. Négociant is who makes the market: in short, buy wine and then maybe it matures, it grows old, it assembles, is the blend, but says that the original material is not his. E mica means that the wine is not good, no: there are French négociant bring bottled wonderful things. Vigneron Récoltant instead is the winemaker who makes and collects (and wine-making) their own grapes, which has vineyards and produces short, starting from the ground. Here I would say that there is clarity. There are some who act as labels for certain Récoltant vigneron, and while others simply as Négociant. Here, I of them, all of these, I trust.
And then in Italy as we manage?
Making use of the "threshold 8000 ', at least for wines that are not children of withering of the grapes, because the formula does not work there. What
travels as I describe below. Get
say how many hectares of vineyards (owned and rented) has determined the company produces and how many bottles altogether. If the bottles by dividing the number of 8 thousand hectares are under quota, then it is almost certain that this is the wine with his grapes. If you go over, then maybe there is some help (aiutone) outside.
Let me explain.
Most of the production rules admits approximately 130 tons of grapes per hectare. We have on average who makes quality wine producing 100 quintals per hectare. The good ones good, in areas where it is objectively possible, down around 80, but not everywhere accepts the vineyard yields so low, and significantly reduced the load of grapes makes her go into stress, with disastrous results from the qualitative side. Knowing that the yield of wine is 70 percent, it means that the grapes a hectare of vines can be drawn, depending on grape yields, between 9 thousand and 6 thousand liters of wine are the productions of those who produce respectively 130 and 80 tons of fruit (100 tons of grapes are obtained 7 thousand liters). Since The bottles are three-quarters of a liter, meaning that if you make 130 tons of grapes per hectare is possible to have 12 thousand bottles, producing 100 tons per hectare is down to 9300 bottles, 80 tons was around the 7500 bowls. On average, a quality wine for me to be calculated about 8000 bottles per hectare, even if the territories and accept that wine grape yields above 100 kilograms.
Why I stop to 8 thousand, while I accept that in certain areas if they can do more? Because I believe that it is impossible in any year everyone, but all the hectares of vineyard business have outdone themselves: no drought, no diseases, no hail, no excessive rainfall, possible? It would be miraculous. It is also unlikely that all the vines have the same age, and therefore have the same grape production. In fact, I think it implausible that the grape yield is uniform and that all the grapes at the same time give a high quality wine made from it. Anything less will be good as well, or not?
So 8 thousand bottles per hectare is already a good threshold, an average acceptable, which may make you think that the wine of this producer is from his own vineyards. Thus, for example for those who declare to have 5 hectares is unrealistic to think that the bottles are produced in the year of maximum 40 thousand (5x8mila), for those 15 hectares, 120 thousand more than we can assess bottles (15x8mila). And so on. If they have done more, it can also be there, but we try to be a bit 'more cautious assessment.
Now I know who read these lines, many friends s'incavoleranno vigneron. But I'm talking about average, thresholds of attention. I'm not saying that absolutely have to make good wine vineyard it means: The natural product of fermentation of grape juice and vinegar, do not ever forget. And I know, also, that you can have a great wine at home even if you do not own an acre of vineyard. But if those who drink wine does have some certainty that the daughter of terroir us the bottle, then some will even take the artificial conservative.
Now, to avoid similar autotutelanti trick for the consumer, it is obvious that an operation would transparency. But I feel a bit 'too utopian to us that we can begin to have the transparency that makes us say if quand'ho fact that this wine I have acted as a vigneron or Récoltant Négociant. The two roles have both the greatest dignity, if the wine has done well. What is not decent to do things without saying it. But if the only god is profit, then ...
Oh, yes, I know I am playing the friendship of some winemaker ours. But I have an excuse: the heat. It gives the head. Sometimes.
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