Sunday, July 29, 2007

Become College Basketball Coach



Angelo Peretti
boil or fry, heat is hot. If nothing else, when it is wet I am account to be hot, if not wet, I have the feeling that someone is cooking on the sly.
The beginning is not mine. And Joe R. Landsdale. The book is a noir, one of his, Hap and Leonard series. It's called "Mucho Mojo". Compelling and foul-mouthed as the others. Einaudi Editore, necklace freestyle.
The beginning is not mine, but it is very hot all the same. It happens even when it is hot to say things a bit 'so. Middle weird. So be it.
So tell me, are you, like me, those who prefer to drink the wine of the area? Who like the bottles of tenants? They adore the spirit of terroir? Be 'cautious go there. And learn a little formula mathematics. What I would call the "threshold 8000," and then explain what it is and therefore I hold you a little more 'on the grill, just to stay on the subject of hot.
The problem is this: are we sure that this wine so much that we liked is that their grapes from this manufacturer? To be sure, we must make an act of faith. Or go for accuracy. Because of grapes and grape musts and wines in tanks in Italy will run, oh run it! All a bustle of wine along the Italic highways, expressways, state, provincial, and so on. So trust is good, but ...
You can argue, is the label. In fact, the label (in fact almost always on the back, but it is one that contains descriptions of the law, and therefore, would technically be the true label) is any indication. If it is written that the wine is "produced and bottled by" it should mean that the chain is in the hands of the producer, but if you write only "bottled by" means that whoever signs the wine has run limited to just put in the bottle, and then if there is even "bottled by ... on behalf of ... 'then it is just a trading game.
In France, in France, which has old history of names and classifications a little 'older than ours, it may be that the label you write instead of this wine is a "négociant 'and that other one a' vigneron Récoltant ', which is a bit' clearer. Négociant is who makes the market: in short, buy wine and then maybe it matures, it grows old, it assembles, is the blend, but says that the original material is not his. E mica means that the wine is not good, no: there are French négociant bring bottled wonderful things. Vigneron Récoltant instead is the winemaker who makes and collects (and wine-making) their own grapes, which has vineyards and produces short, starting from the ground. Here I would say that there is clarity. There are some who act as labels for certain Récoltant vigneron, and while others simply as Négociant. Here, I of them, all of these, I trust.
And then in Italy as we manage?
Making use of the "threshold 8000 ', at least for wines that are not children of withering of the grapes, because the formula does not work there. What
travels as I describe below. Get
say how many hectares of vineyards (owned and rented) has determined the company produces and how many bottles altogether. If the bottles by dividing the number of 8 thousand hectares are under quota, then it is almost certain that this is the wine with his grapes. If you go over, then maybe there is some help (aiutone) outside.
Let me explain.
Most of the production rules admits approximately 130 tons of grapes per hectare. We have on average who makes quality wine producing 100 quintals per hectare. The good ones good, in areas where it is objectively possible, down around 80, but not everywhere accepts the vineyard yields so low, and significantly reduced the load of grapes makes her go into stress, with disastrous results from the qualitative side. Knowing that the yield of wine is 70 percent, it means that the grapes a hectare of vines can be drawn, depending on grape yields, between 9 thousand and 6 thousand liters of wine are the productions of those who produce respectively 130 and 80 tons of fruit (100 tons of grapes are obtained 7 thousand liters). Since The bottles are three-quarters of a liter, meaning that if you make 130 tons of grapes per hectare is possible to have 12 thousand bottles, producing 100 tons per hectare is down to 9300 bottles, 80 tons was around the 7500 bowls. On average, a quality wine for me to be calculated about 8000 bottles per hectare, even if the territories and accept that wine grape yields above 100 kilograms.
Why I stop to 8 thousand, while I accept that in certain areas if they can do more? Because I believe that it is impossible in any year everyone, but all the hectares of vineyard business have outdone themselves: no drought, no diseases, no hail, no excessive rainfall, possible? It would be miraculous. It is also unlikely that all the vines have the same age, and therefore have the same grape production. In fact, I think it implausible that the grape yield is uniform and that all the grapes at the same time give a high quality wine made from it. Anything less will be good as well, or not?
So 8 thousand bottles per hectare is already a good threshold, an average acceptable, which may make you think that the wine of this producer is from his own vineyards. Thus, for example for those who declare to have 5 hectares is unrealistic to think that the bottles are produced in the year of maximum 40 thousand (5x8mila), for those 15 hectares, 120 thousand more than we can assess bottles (15x8mila). And so on. If they have done more, it can also be there, but we try to be a bit 'more cautious assessment.
Now I know who read these lines, many friends s'incavoleranno vigneron. But I'm talking about average, thresholds of attention. I'm not saying that absolutely have to make good wine vineyard it means: The natural product of fermentation of grape juice and vinegar, do not ever forget. And I know, also, that you can have a great wine at home even if you do not own an acre of vineyard. But if those who drink wine does have some certainty that the daughter of terroir us the bottle, then some will even take the artificial conservative.
Now, to avoid similar autotutelanti trick for the consumer, it is obvious that an operation would transparency. But I feel a bit 'too utopian to us that we can begin to have the transparency that makes us say if quand'ho fact that this wine I have acted as a vigneron or Récoltant Négociant. The two roles have both the greatest dignity, if the wine has done well. What is not decent to do things without saying it. But if the only god is profit, then ...
Oh, yes, I know I am playing the friendship of some winemaker ours. But I have an excuse: the heat. It gives the head. Sometimes.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Cheats Leafgreen Gameshark Gpsphone

Gambellara, the other garganega

Angelo Peretti
The syndrome risk is the son of a lesser god. From poor branch of the family. But no. Instead, these basalts are the Garganega and the other thing.
I was recently a couple of times in Gambellara, stuck on the border land of Vicenza Verona. First stop for a tasting of local whites together with a group of producers, hosted by the Consortium for the post doc. Second visit to the winery, for a couple of things m'avevano their curiosity. And m'incuriosiva particularly want to understand if the world co-operation was in some way on the wavelength of the little ones, seemed convinced that I had. I must say that I found favorable response, although the street, clearly, there is something to be done. In short I realized that there, a stone's throw from the capital that is Bianchisti Soave, there is, as I said, other garganega growing on basalt and which may give good bottles and that the way to get there has been embarked . Next, then. We must believe it. We must believe the vigneron. Without suffering from para-soavesi loyalties. Without attempting unlikely imitations. Building an autonomous path. What are you looking to terroir. That is reality
Gambellara semidisowned. The country is little one, and there I found very attractive in terms of architecture, urban landscape (a center of the Venetian countryside like so many others) and is quite beautiful, and green, and almost savage at times, and plenty of vineyards and hills. There's black stone, its basalt, up those hills. Ground of the volcano, which must be apparent in the wine. And pity that the basalt have dug a little 'wildly in the years of hunger, when you had to work all at crear costs. With the cost, for example, of bringing down an old small church off to the quarry. It is not where porous basalt and red tufa is calling them togo. And this is a land of vineyards and fine wine.
Inside the village, in Gambellara, the building is perhaps the most beautiful old building that houses the Consortium. Right in front of the seat of one of the largest companies Italian wine, Zonin, something with the name of the local doc bottles, but now as the residual share, for the attentions are well outside the territory of Vicenza, with investments - important - he has done in almost all of Italy. Now
grapes, which as I said is Garganega (or perhaps Garganega, the male, as someone says here), which is vocatissima daughters for land of volcanoes. As for the doc, the appellation of origin shall take in, along with Gambellara, three other municipalities that are Montebello Vicentino, Vicenza and Montorso Zermeghedo, a name that sounds like a tongue twister. Little more than a thousand acres in all. We do, in the doc, most wines. The Gambellara, in fact, white, Gambellara Classic, reserved to the vineyards of the hill, and then Recioto, sweet, dried Garganega grapes, and sparkling and still Recioto finally the strangeness that is the Vin Santo, whose existence must be act of faith, since no one, absolutely no taste I've done in two visits.
Now, I know they're trying to approve the designation provided for Recioto and, as I understand, for the Classic. And a little 'me shake your wrists, given the substantial failure of the other guaranteed accessible in recent years in the Veneto region: the superior of Soave and Bardolino are never taken off, and attempts Recioto di Soave. Val really worth? And most importantly, it is worth imposing changes to the specification for the DOCG to spin in a farming area has always been oriented to the pergola? It is not that upset, so, the wine, and seeks to make more wine grapes than of terroir? Better to meditate a little, I'm afraid. It is an invitation.
I must also say the world's production. Impression: that there is - there can be - just the right mix of world consortium and private initiative that has marked the success of other lands of the wine. It is important that you find harmony between the two components. And that points to the quality.
Moreover, some of the winemaker is the place for some years on the yearbooks of the wine of distinction: I think of Dal Maso, in Cavazza. And then there's the winery, which the habit has run off her current social and thus the name is now called Cantina Gambellara. And the visit was of interest because it is true that are still so many bottles and bulk-to-screw-cap (the rest of the nearly four hundred proprietors there's several in the plains, and much of those vineyards is objectively cavarci difficult), but there is good hand of winemaker and clear ideas in management. Thank goodness, I think they will get it. Other
meditation which I entrust to the vigneron Gambellara. They're pushing it, proudly, on Recioto and Vin Santo. To differentiate itself, and then emerge. Let them do so, for goodness sake, do it. But beware: not s'accreditino as wine producers focused on sweetness. Do not commit this error of communication. That their assets are instead garganega on basalt, and then the dry white and mineral character. Not distract from the objective truth. Please.
Now, some wines. Is right to give the idea, at least briefly. Putting together the best of things tried in two visits I have said. With double points, in hundredths of pleasure and Faccini.
Gambellara Classico 2006 Ca Fischel Dal Maso Bel white, gentlemen, beautiful white. Dal Maso I know them for some time. And I appreciate it. Here is flesh and substance Epper also freshness and cleanliness and length and vein mineral hours just mentioned, but already exciting.
86/100
Three Happy Face :-) :-) :-)
Gambellara Classico Virgilio 2006 Vignato If I understand it, that's an experimental wine that I tasted when it was still in the tank, and that I would then have opportunity to try again. Rustic, wild, yet full of fruit, nervous, mineral.
83/100 trust
Two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Gambellara Classic Paiele 2006 John Minds quest'aziendina I bet on. I bet because I find personality in Paiele, and I am convinced that keeps just fine and that if the distance from that n'esce his introverted and will be even more interesting mineral. Two 80/100

Faccini happy :-) :-)
Gambellara Togo 2006 Classic Winery Gambellara Hats off to the winery, where he pulls out 'ste bottles from the hillside vineyards. Boy, that is a pleasure to drink, and fruit and length. Maybe you'd like a fresh coat longer, but wine is fine, sure. Two 80/100

Faccini happy :-) :-)
Gambellara Classic Top Brume 2006 Cantina Gambellara me that have challenged the young people there, and me ricontesteranno. And I appreciated the say, it is not easy to numbers with this operation. Mira immediacy, pushes the aroma, but for heaven's sake is nice! Two 76/100

Faccini, in relation to the type :-) :-)

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Good Poses For Profile

Where flies the Falcon

Angelo Peretti
Bordeaux, province of Mantua. It seems a heresy, a disgrace. How can we dare to approach the mother of the great red with the wretched of the earth Virgil Lambrusco? Apart from the fact ...
Apart from the fact that I, Bordeaux Claretian convinced, also like Lambrusco Mantua, and when they are well made, with their dark color and those tones of blackberry and cherry and overripe plum cotta, and the rough effervescence, and the creamy foam, well, 'I drink them willingly. And we do also bevr'in vin, Pour a little broth in the holster of the angels, and do not despise the color purple that one gets that tone and that if it gets sour. Apart from this, in Mantua is not only mica Lambrusco, no sir. That from the upper parts of the province, around Lake Garda, where you close the circle of hills moraine deposited by glaciers and who knows how many centuries ago, there are other vineyards. And they grow, and with good results, although the home Bordeaux: cabernet, merlot. What you read in Italian, as is the case for years et annorum: Cabernet, Merlot, a tone sharp. There
for example, on those hills, the parties to Monzambano, almost a stone's throw from the lake, a vineyard of cabernet sauvignon, which gives good fruit and intriguing wine. Known as "The Falcon and the Vineyard was planted in 1965 as an experiment, with the contribution of the Provincia di Mantova. In 1986, the pioneer of Cavalchina Custoza began making wine from those grapes.
I recently had the chance to try the bottles vertically, following the course of the years from almost the beginning, we started coll'87, and is so incredible to go back with the labels of the Lake Garda region. And this n'avrebbe already made a memorable tasting. But what is more me was amazed at the integrity and indeed the elegance of cert'annate. What really did - and forgive me the audacity - to think of Bordeaux wines, ohibò.
Oram tasting than I would like to account, but not before some warning. First, the name change ed'azienda. The 87 was released as a table wine under the trademark Cavalchina. 88 table wine was Alto Mincio, always Cavalchina, Alto Mincio in '90 yet, but under the name The Predina, the company founded by Piona Monzambano on purpose. Since '96 there's the doc: Become a Garda Cabernet Sauvignon. Until '97 s'imbottigliava glass of Bordeaux, the '98 has passed the bottle Burgundy, with a new label, and instead of the old naming of Falcone's Vineyard, the wine has got only nomarsi Falcone. This is to explain the differences in names that you will find below. The wine remains that, apart from name.
always add, is red that has aged in barrel: up to 87 six months, from 88 twelve. Always, too, added to cabernet has run a bit 'of merlot, "to give roundness," he told me Luciano Piona, adding that the cut is variable depending on the outcome of the year. "But to make a difference - Luciano followed - was the return of wine culture."
Add a note again: the Falcone said the good years, and how. This is a wine that has thus personality. And the price has certainly interesting: the private wine cellar in the consumer pays around 12 € and let me tell you - from v'accorgerete tabs below - are very, very well spent.
Now, the vertical, with the double vote, in cents, and into smilies.

Vineyard of the Falcon 1987 Color Cavalchina poor. Wine, alas, oxidative, although still retains a pile of acidity, which has somehow saved. A memory of licorice. You drink more.
70/100 - nothing Faccini

Alto Mincio Vineyard of the Falcon 1988 Color Cavalchina discharge. Green notes and mineral grains the nose. The mouth is not bad, not tannic. The fruit is a little 'decadent. The vein does not bother oxidation. It was rather long. Growing production expertise.
78/100 - a face :-)

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio the Falcon 1990 The Prendina Oh, oh, the first surprise, the change of gear! It seems still young, this red '90. The color has been done, however, the denser of the two previous ones. The nose is back at first, vegetable, flower and grain here and besides balsamic memories. Plant and there is also the palate. And fruit and fine tannins.
86/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio the Falcon 1991 The Prendina He fights with 90 in terms of personality, but is more advanced later in maturation. Proposes animalistic nose veins and minerals. And fruit ripening. And spice. The mouth is in tune. Red slim, although the tannins seem a bit 'rough. In any case, fascinating for me.
85/100 - two smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio the Falcon 1992 The Prendina Here the year did not help. The wine has a green nose. Underlying is the small berries (blackberries). The mouth is smooth: no depth.
74/100 - a face :-)

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio the Falcon 1993 The Prendina difficult and almost earthy nose, at first, then pregnant with hints of cocoa and coffee. It has vague memories of geranium leaf. The mouth is almost aggressive tannins and a bit 'dry. This is a wine that knows how and when to evolve.
80/100 - almost two and a face :-)

Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio the Falcon 1994 The Prendina nose hard, mineral veins on the fruit. Mouth a little 'dry matter in tannin. Problems Seal ', probably.
in doubt, seal, no opinion, of course.

Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Mincio The Vineyard of the Falcon 1995 Prendina Wow! What a beautiful wine, boys, what a beautiful red. Youthful fruit on the nose. Very elegant. The mouth is fruity and fresh and calibrated in the round tannins. And there is considerable drinking, too. Juicy, satisfying. It is very Bordeaux. And he still have a long life ahead. So have bottles in the cellar!
90/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1996 The Falcone Prendina Okay, a little wine will also be a 'little more of the magnificent '95, but also I want to have some one of these bottles in my cellar. It's great, but for almost opposite to those of predecessor: it is fresh, crisp and has almost overripe fruit, spice it, drink it. Over time, emerging in the glass mint eucalyptus, fascinating.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 The Falcone Prendina this '97 is still young. Green, so green. The nose and mouth. He then flavors of strong coffee, cocoa, overripe red fruit, spice. In the mouth there is lots and lots fruttone, soft and chewy. Matter galore. And velvety tannins. There are those who adores her by her fullness. The prefer a bit 'the two previous years, but that makes three of a kind worthy of applause.
89/100 - Two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Garda Falcone 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina dense fruit, cocoa and spice nose. The mouth is the same tone. It looks hot. It has tannins well expressed. Maybe, here, you want more balance, which here takes precedence over the power to drink the previous vintages.
85/100 - two Faccini :-) :-)

Garda Falcone 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina The English and Americans, when they describe the red Bordeaux wines are always indicate whether to drink or to keep: drink or hold, in the words of their language. In this case: hold, wait. What a wine is young and who knows when it is ready and wait. Matter, matter, matter. Fruit and tannin. Power. Beautiful bottle is uncorked a pity that now. Congratulations, anyway.
88-90/100 - too early for Faccini

Garda Falcone 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina were two storms to affect the collection, in 2000, Monzambano. And the cabernet was helped with a little 'faded merlot. And thus was saved the vintage. The fix is \u200b\u200bheard: fruit jam, overripe. He balsamic veins. But it is a bit 'short.
78/100 - a face :-)

Garda Falcone 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina remember the rains of 2002? Last year difficult. Notes of camphor smell. The mouth is well built, but tannins a bit 'rough squeezing the fruit.
78/100 - a face :-)

Garda Falcone 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina Here, I take the history of drink or hold the British style. In this case, you drink: drink it right away, and plus you considerable satisfaction, which is wine bell'appagamento. He Caramellina fruit with blackberry jam and elderberry. Then, in the mouth, soft and round and velvet. A green streak that gives him momentum. Not bad for the heat of 2003.
88/100 - Two happy smilies and nearly three
:-) :-)
Garda Falcone 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina Here let us what you want. You can bury it in the cellar and forget who knows how many years before drinking it, you opened at least once and enjoy it in its immediate fruit. Very good now, very good, probably, over the years. Squaring the circle. Juicy, youthful and fragrant. Pleasant. Elegant. Great.
90/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda Falcone 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon The Prendina He's still stopping in the glass, resting. He has lots and lots of small fruit. Red and crispy. Looking good, very good. Of course, it should be expected and is soon to judge. But buy it just comes out is not at all a mistake ... I would say, indeed, wisdom.
88-90/100 - obviously early for Faccini

Saturday, July 7, 2007

What Does Nick Berry Do Now 2010

Top 2007 mid-term

Angelo Peretti
turning point of the year. So an appointment with my personal ranking of the best bottles tasted in the first six months of 2007. Fifteen in all, lined up alphabetically: no categories. But if you really want to go to categorize, I say that there are six whites and five reds and two bubbles and two sweet wines (one white, one red). Missing rose, but only because I want them riassaggiare, the ones that I am loved, and how to keep time.
I know, probably of little interest to my readers of what I like. But let's put it this way: have any advice for buying, trend lines, the opportunity to recall things that I have already spoken and bowls to name which you may not speak in other sections. Some memorable is easier to find on the market, sometimes it's more difficult to find. In short, good luck to those who want to try to put to the test by replicating the taste.
I said a year ago that a review on trends in the world of wine I'd begun to do: more red and soft fruit (and even relatively young to drink) and white playing on the acidity, the freshness on life. I think that we can confirm the prediction on white, and the decline now enshrined in the transition wood. As for reds, well, 'I still see confusion, because they continue to have very successful soft red fruit (what about the triumphant march Ripasso and Amarone, which have almost sent into the small attic Valpolicella?), But while the Bordeaux back in the limelight, the real ones, certainly not on the power play, but elegance, the subtlety, and self-criticism made in Burgundy, has run well again, beginning to tone down the rhetoric (color density) to return to tradition. And in America there is increasing discussion of wines from cool climates, which have in fact drink more than muscle power. And then there is the other trend, which will also be fashionable, but I'm glad, because I'm always kind of drinker: that of the rose, exploded by now the whole planet. Still, the bubble is a good evergreen, and you drink a lot of champagne around (have you noticed how many wine bars have been equipped with two or three types of French bubbles, and as they revolve more and more brands and new?).
Now what is most pleasing to me.
remains intact passion for the German Riesling and old Bordeaux, Médoc especially, no doubt: My references to wine making, the one in white, the other in red.
Privilege still the world Bianchisti. They're like more and more strange, incredible Jura whites, those with oxidative their veins combined with a freshness that leaves bocc'aperta. And they continue to like the whites of the Loire chenin grapes based. Having to choose between the Italian white inclined to Soave, and there is only one in the charts, and repeated from last year, for the tastings I have done almost everything in these first days of July, so if anything will be in the top of end of the year. Among the reds Italy, however, when I saw a good Nebbiolo not disdain to uncork some too bad happen to me too few times to drink Barolo. If you drink bubbly, I forgive the vigneron from our own, but the point on the Champagne.
In any case, when someone asks me what my favorite wine, I answer in an elementary way: the good one. And that kindness It must have something to say. If not what fun is it?
And now, off the alerts.

Arbois Savagnin Cave de la Reine Jeanne 2003 Stephane Tissot White. One of those white strange and complex and difficult to do in the Jura. Nose layer, which evolves slowly, long. Correspondence to taste. To be kept in a glass and enjoy the evolution. Medlar, overripe fruit, nuts, camphor, spice. And long. And freshness. Drunk in May.

Arbois Solstice 2002 Domaine de la Tournelle White. Good grief, another Arbois. I had been drinking in May 2005 em'era very pleased. Meet (ribevendolo) in January 2007, the pleasure is amplified. Rustic, old. Nose medlar and wild walnut. Mouth of yellow flower soaked and almond. Drink snappy and satisfying length. Heroic.

2001 Luigi Pira Barolo Marenca Red. And now, a good Barolo is a good Barolo, and this would be enough. In short, if that Nico Orengo that the Barolo has to be combination of violet and licorice, that's true Barolo. He got three glasses Gambero & Slow, and the jury is condivisibilissimo. Bright red, bright red. Elegant and exciting. Drunk in March.

Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2004 Francois et Denis Clair Red. Now maybe you do not impression this Burgundian Pinot Noir. But then here is the purple Fruttino and take possession of the palate and will not settle down et'avvincono muscle but by grace. Then you understand why the guide Hachette has given the coup de coeur, and the three stars. Ribevuto in January.

Aÿ Champagne Brut Grand Cru Fut de Chene 1995 Henri Giraud Bolle. Ah, bubbles, good bubbles! A lot of fruit, a small, forest & woodland (black currant, medlar, wild apple tart), fascinating, perennial in the nose and mouth. Warm croissants, fresh bread. Carbon dioxide fully integrated. Very elegant, aristocratic Champagne drunk in February.

Champagne Brut Reserve Grand Cru André Beaufort Bolle. As a brioche with apricot, soft, fragrant with butter and fruit. So this seemed to me Champagne. Organically grown grapes. Creamy and maybe some 'Dolcino, old fashioned. But I have a drink and another and another. Seductive silkiness. In May: bottle disgorged in January 2006.

1996 Château Haut-Medoc Red Sociando-Mallet. Elegant nose, with spicy & fruity. Fascinating balsamic notes. Fruit and eucalyptus. Gripping tannins. Drinkable wine and roasted together, that you are deceived, because it seems easy and is instead complessissimo. The distance grows, becomes increasingly fine. And yet young. Very good, very good. Drunk in May.

Nahe Riesling Beerenauslese 1976 Bingerbrücker Abtei Rupertsberg Schlösschen am Mäuseturm Dolce. I have hoarded a few bottles every now and n'apro: good to very good. In May, amazing. Canned figs, dried apricot, chestnut honey, vanilla, spicy German cookies, thyme, balsamic herbs. Freshness & softness. Thrilling.

Nahe Riesling Kabinett 2004 Hermann Oberhauser Leistenberg Dönnhoff White. I like the Germanic Riesling, Riesling And this is nice. With that nose that combines flowers and resins and mineral veins. And the drink that is absolute gratification. And the balance between freshness and softness. Drunk in January, ribevuto in June. Time passes and the memory remains.

Pauillac 1993 Chateau Mouton Rothschild Premier Cru Red . When you say the fine, at least for what I think, there is no body structure, tannin, alcohol, fruttone, gym taking. And it's the finesse to make this red wine from a round of applause. Binds to harmony and elegance, is stretched lazily on the fruit. He has long, persistent. Drunk with joy, in April.

Poully Mademoiselle de T-Fumé Chateau de Tracy White 05. Oh, well, you want: if I drink a Loire Sauvignon has to be, because there is not boring track plant, but flower, and then. And this here is a nice Sauvignon, sissigori and fascinated with the bouquet. And he Fruttino white and small and yet also boasts attractive freshness and harmony. Drank the bottle in January.

Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Domini Veneti Moron Vineyards Winery 2000 Dolce Negrar . I remember a finalist for the three glasses, this Recioto valpolicellese, but without the guidance of 2003. At a distance, made himself even more elegant, almost austere. Captivates the sweetness, but increasingly intrigued by the spicy, complex. Dried flower is added. In January.

Savennieres-Coulée-de-Serrant Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 1980 Nicolas Joly White. Joly is also a storyteller, and in fact will also have the image of the guru with his being the world's leading bio-dynamic, but the old bottles of Coulée de Serrant are really good. Shows no sign of yielding this chenin 80. Drunk in February.

2005 Soave Monte Fiorentine Ca Rugate White. Oh, well, I know I repeat myself and that I have already entered the top 2006, but continues to strapiacermi after Strabo and only if there are other bottles. I insist: it is the joyous result that emerges from the glass. For me, a white which is the benchmark for those who want to drink wine & nature together. Ribevuto in April.

Valpolicella Classico 1999 Giuseppe Quintarelli Rosso Superiore . The Bepi is Bepi, and wines which have his imprint, his unique style. And if you n'innamori can be a trouble ... But love knows no barriers, it is said, therefore, let yourself be enchanted by this noble fruit velvety, enveloping, powerful, warm & drinkable together. In May.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

What Does The Summit Trainer Do

Massimo Ronca, vigneron Sommacampagna

Angelo Peretti
Let me tell you: I am not mica prosperous times, these people, for the tenants of the Verona side of Lake Garda. Bardolino is undergoing a crisis of identity: it saves (and saves the economic accounts) Chiaretto, which is periodic trend of pink. The Custoza is more popular, wake of the revival of interest for whites, but the prices are certainly not the stars and maybe even here there is some communication gap to be bridged. It is not to be missing, both to and from that of bardolino Custoza, producers who do things right, and indeed there are wines that I consider of great bell'espressione, but there's way - a lot - going to give recovered a better perception. Now, whether born in the inland Lake Garda right now a new store devoted to the creed of Custoza and Bardolino itself is a (good) news. To greet with enthusiasm by some, that might be the inkling of a turning point: new investment will help everyone, believe me. And it is more if one considers that these newcomers have decided to take the bull by the horns, pointing to wines with personality. I confess that
Massimo Ronca and his decision to Sommacampagna wine I had never heard of before. Before the day, I mean, where in the inbox I found the call at the opening of his winery. Pdf of an elegant setting, the area is not running not so like that. And I am surprised to see pictures of the bottles: three white and red all in Burgundy, and is another anomaly in an area where the depopulated Bordeaux. And most labels with graphics minimalist-modern that does not go unnoticed. Packaging and labels assigned to an art director, Marco Campedelli.
I confess: the first intention was to let go. I wondered if it was really possible that someone might seek to put money on making wine in this area. And I shrugged. Never have preconceptions, and I have had: I was thinking about some upstart that he wanted to do so the winemaker for fashion. Then the pictures of those bowls atypical continued - fortunately - to tease. And, in fact, the opening did not go, I do not really like the transit events. But I made an appointment and I have showed up in a few days later via Val di Sona, which is a small street, which we take the path that Sommacampagna from the highway leads to Busselton, just before the railway bridge: go to a ceramics factory and it was here before you enter through the vineyards. Or rather, you enter one of the first acres of kiwi (and those continue to make enough), because the vines are a bit 'above, on the hill: a twenty hectares, from which it drew grapes give the wine cooperative. And now for me this was a kind of slap, which I found contradicted the idea that they were newcomers: the grapes are from '76 Ronca, not yesterday. Seventy per cent for Custoza, the rest to Bardolino. Then, by 2006, the decision to go it alone. And to call to interpret the vineyard and terroir Enrico Paternoster & Roberto & Gianni Gasperi Lechthaler, all people who knows her and has bell'esperienza. Chapeau. Among
vineyard and winery, so I could converse with this Massimo Ronca, who is young producer em'è seemed really intends to talk about himself for his choices. N'ha already made degl'impianti also committed to consistent production: steel small, to take separate each pressing, any portion of the vineyard (for now there is no barrel of wood), then making cuvée . And even the vineyard has run on the new imprint, with a restyling of the old things and the laying of new rows. Clear that it will take time to see the full results. And it is equally clear that, meanwhile, s'imbottiglia only a small part, and the rest goes away in a tank: Mica is possible that an overnight find the strength to sell hundreds of thousands of bottles and more. But the little, and it is only the first year, I considered it quite interesting, so here I am to account for them.
I say, that seemed to me that the wines of the first year, one in 2006 - are four labels - are all well done. And I seem rather intended to give even a little better impression 'coll'affinamento later in the glass. I believe that trying again in the fall you can find them grown, and I hope to have chance to test it again. And anyway, are wines that have character and do not want to follow fashion piacione: dry, bone-dry, not too often that the Morbidoni of you are around. Well. And I say to myself that it takes courage and determination (and perhaps a bit 'of unconsciousness) to put themselves in such an adventure, but anyway, the point of departure is already looking up. And if a good day starts in the morning, I expect good things from harvest to come, when the vineyards and the refurbishing of new planting will bear fruit even clearer. So I encourage the undertaking.
Ordunque, the four wines of this newly aziend'agricola Ronca.
Custoza Tera 2006 The name is in dialect: earth, it's like. That's almost a declaration of intent. The grapes are Garganega and Tocai (here called Trebbianello) in almost equal measure. And I say that white is the most intriguing of smell I have ever smelt in recent years in Lake Garda area. Memoirs of balsamic pine wave expands from the glass. And under white fruit (and pear). And dry white flower. Good well as the mouth, which has nice progression: first the fruit, so much, then the freshness of saline, and the finish is dry. It has good flesh. Maybe I want more length, but give it some time. Meanwhile, I enjoy the fragrance. Costa
in the basement to private 4.70 € for a bottle (27 case of 6). Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Garganega 2006 Cami Cami is going to Camilla, the daughter of the owner. Garganega is the grape of the place par excellence. On the nose, white flowers: chamomile. And hints of green chlorophyll. And white fruit. Nice bouquet, really. Mouth tight. Material. Dry finish, a white race. There is a vein a little 'I'd rather not be bitter, but I think over the months will tend to disappear. Costa
4.50 € (25.80 in cash.) Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
White MEUI 2006 Gallicism crippled in the name, but yeah ... Most tocai, grapes, and then a bit of pinot blanc. And the same balsamic Custoza. It hints of fine flowers. And the result: the nectarine, white, when it is still crunchy, not quite ripe. Great flavor in the mouth & salinity. And long. It might. Maybe the trickle of bad taste in most, but even here there is time to leave. Costa
5.50 € (31.80 in cash) Two
Faccini happy :-) :-)
Bardolino 2006 Erre Erre going to Ronca. Or red, you name it. And it pays no attention to that Bardolino formalisms: ripe fruit and tannin. Corvina eighty percent. The rest is almost swallow, and even abandoned elsewhere Molinari, who is in the vineyard and then why not use it? Nose of clove, cinnamon stick to, from candied orange peel. And ripe strawberries. In the mouth there is tension, and fruit, and slightly herbaceous streak, and spice. Bardolino to drink and, I think, even more interesting if you have patience to wait. Costa
4.80 € (27.60 in cash.)
For now, almost two and a face :-).