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Ten Groppelli for me, but not enough Possoni

Angelo Peretti
Yes, I understand, the title is just a ciofeche this time. But, you see, I just bought the entire discography of Lucio Battisti, and I listen in the car (which I will have made me nostalgic, you want). In short, this came to me in mind of songs: "Ten girls for me, Possoni enough." And as I review below some ten Groppello of Valtenesi, as I promised (promised?) Last week, here are the ten was the catalyst. And there they will go to illustrate so are the wines for me - now - be good, and I drank willingly from the first summer here, but not enough Possoni. In the sense that they still have room for improvement and focus more firmly on top. And what awaits me still further growth for the whole area, because other companies have blazon and history and vineyard. In short, courage: the time is right: I said and I repeat that I think you're about to fly, on the Lombard shore of Lake Garda.
About Baptists. That one of the ten girls, is certainly one of its most beautiful. What I really stuck to the head, his (a torment for me, that goes on for a couple of years, and I bought also the version recorded by others: that of the beautiful La Crus) is "And I think of you." And there's many others that give me the creeps. For example "I would like ... I would not ... But if you want (as you have heard the singing, too Antonella Ruggiero?). And "Our dear Angel?". I recognize you in that "but will never be enslaved." Okay: digressions. I go back to
Groppello. Story below it, of the ten that I chose, but they do not cover the full rossista VALTENESI. Because there the groppello (grape) should also end up in blends (alas: obsolete technique) or blend (cheers: here we are) with other varieties (Barbera, marzemino, sangiovese) for the Garda Classico Rosso (or Riviera del Garda Bresciano or Garda Bresciano, for the names if they are layered too many). And then I would say that ends up in wine-making experiments, with Rebus, for example, and other matters of table wines or IGT Benaco Bresciano. But this time I chose to tell only the label of bottles that bear the inscription monocultivar: Groppello. On the other reds, maybe, I will speak further on (by the way: with groppello you also Claret, pink)
Now, wines, finally. I put the double points, foil and into smilies. Proximate to say the wine as a subject, content. Faccini to say about my personal pleasure to drink.
The order is alphabetical, per producer.

Garda Classico Groppello Colombaio 2006 Cascina La Pertica Groppello drinkable, yes, and hence a lot 'of personality. And it is bell'azienda, Cascina La Pertica this: the front door and the red Zalt repeatedly tribicchierato. Ha, this Colombaio intrigantissimo nose: ripe fruit, nutmeg, camphor. Fruity mouth on advanced, mature, soft. With great emphasis on spice. And the sharp but not aggressive tannins. And below, firm and inviting, the fruit macerate.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Riviera del Garda Bresciano Gropèl 2004 Comincioli The Gropèl Gianfranco Comincoli is something of a work in progess, wine evolving style, marked as no one else the search continues for the mayor-Puegnago winemaker. Nose has a bit 'closed, but under no fruit macerate. Hot mouth, tannic, big, powerful. And yet much fruit (and cherries). There is spice. And good length.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Riviera del Garda Bresciano Suler 2003 Comincioli Comincioli ago when wine and oil is not there to look half-measures. Saying that it is a little extreme, and this the its value, but also - please forgive me - the limit. That sometimes is fine to go in between, and therefore need better focus, but I know Gianfranco is a lot working there. That said, here is the Suler, Groppello withering long, long time. The nose is a bit 'compressed, but underneath there is lots and lots of fruit maturissimo. The mouth is rich, concentrated, powerful, fruttatissima, tannicissima.
86/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Classico 2006 Groppello Castellina Costaripa Groppello smaller, so to speak, Costaripa. It left me thinking, which seems almost Groppello even last year, with the calmness of his already almost aristocratic. Nose ripe strawberries and plums. Slight spiciness. In the mouth, beautiful fabric tannic vellulato. And it is still on the fruit, very ripe. It has spice and length.
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Garda Classico 2004 Groppello Maim Costaripa so elegant a Groppello I had never found before. Maim is acronym stands for Matt and Imer. Vezzola family name. The first is the general manager of Bellavista, Franciacorta. Winemaker of the Year for my guide, Gambero & Slow. Costaripa Garda is the vineyard, the family business. The wine has a nose of red fruit and wilted ripening. There's strawberries and blueberry jam. Spezia. The mouth confirms the fruit macerate, but it has momentum and drink and juiciness. And there tannin well exposed, but senz'aggressività. Austere and vibrant whole.
88/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda Groppello Mogre 2006 Delai When Sergio Sergio has won his last hesitation and you will truly realize what it's worth, well, ' Expect great things. His Fronsàga is already pretty red. This is Groppello the wheel. Nose of camphor and macerated fruit and spicy vein. Wide mouth on the result, perhaps now a bit 'closed by tannic note. He has, moreover, good and spicy. Even here, Valur confident.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Groppello 2005 loyal Monteacuto The Antonio is a gentle giant. To see his hands makes you fear, as big as a spade. But man is gentle, almost shy. It makes wine in the garage, which has a small house and now there is more (but the new cellar is in the air). Makes wines that have character. This confirms Groppello. Fruity nose of ripe red berries. Bocca tannic, powerful, warm, spicy, peppery. Good length. Power but also freshness. To try to drink. And if in the future will increase the elegance ...
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Garda Classico 2005 Groppello The closures Oh, that Alexander Luzzago face of the beautiful red Portis (read Portese, municipality of San Felice del Benaco) I already said some time ago talking about his Malborghetto (Rebus, merlot and barbera little). But it also has a nice Groppello. Fruit on the nose. Idem mouth, with hints of pepper and tannin maybe still quite green, which makes me say that it lasts, this red. Wine a bit 'rustic, therefore, but fresh and drinkable. Promotes it on trust.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Groppello Garda Classico Riserva 2003 Arzano San Giovanni Pasini Pending (re) try the 2004, drunk in the draft version, I ritastato dell'Arzane in 2003. And I confirm what I wrote long ago, reviewing. A kind of prototype which aims Groppello opulence of the fruit. Son of 2003, fruttone overripe, but not cooked: cherry, cherries, strawberries. And in a subtle herbaceous alpine vein.
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Garda Classico 2003 Groppello Baloss Zuliani Baloss in Brescia is the meaning of crazy, crazy. If not worse. But the land is also a strip of Baloss Valtenesi. A trail of orchid and bog where there are reeds and olive trees and vineyards together. Strange area. We get by, the Zuliani, a cru Groppello. That nose has intriguing tones on decaying fruit and berries (dried mushroom, moss, even). The mouth has nice fruit and round. Good drinks, but also well-defined tannins. Continue this evolved fruit notes, accompanied by forest scents. Beautiful length and tannins.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

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Valtenesi But that's where flies

Angelo Peretti
in August I wrote two years ago: "Make way for the new Groppello.
Now, the wine in question is Groppello Valtenesi, Lombard shore of Lake Garda. Valtenesi I write with an accent, because I do not expect everyone to know this plague Garda and they know where they drop the emphasis, as you pronounce the name, in fact. And after some time, I'm just glad to see that I was a good prophet. The new Groppello not say which is grown and who became an adult, but certainly it was born. Believe me there great vitality in the land of Valtenesi, and reiterate the emphasis.
Groppello n'avrei drunk with great pleasure to tell. And I will do the week is: a little patience. This time I want to say something on grapes and its current management and future.
The grapes, therefore: groppello is native to, and it is good. And it is indeed a value. But frankly, that concept in Italian wine are mounting the fashion of autochthony ampelographic makes me a bit creepy 'skin, I can not stand the fashionable trends that periodically emerge in the world of the bottles. I do not give anything that the variety possesses indigenous pedigree, if you do then with that grape wines of ignoble drink. And perhaps even less if it m'intriga traggan wines made correctly - Winemaker compounds, winemaker of homework, but good - if not then I know to describe the earth and man, if I do not know how to tell of their terroir, in fact. And if that describes this wine rather well its terroir, and most importantly is the son of native grape, then I'm very pleased, rejoices. But it is the vine, remember well, the only component to be considered important, because otherwise you justify as typical errors in the vineyard and winery.
Now, groppello vine is certainly worthy of interest. But it is not a champion. In the sense that for us we must construct wine very busy. It has no color, this grape. Rustichello often gives tannin. It is not loose (the name, groppello, is to lump the rest, from grapes with grapes tightened to each other) and then it is likely that the attack fungi, molds. And maybe then (but I'd say maybe not) needs to shoulder, maybe the company does: and therefore put together a little 'of other grapes does not hurt, indeed. Conversely, I like it very much that his tone of strawberries, which together with the business of light color made me say, other times - and did not take to tackle - that reminds me of the Burgundian pinot noir, and that therefore the potrebb'essere the reference for those who want to make wine in Valtenesi.
Beware: they are coming to appreciate, the wine growers of the area. And they're pulling out more and more good bottles. Hurry up in the area, if still not popular.
The breakthrough seems to me there comes the final. I must say that although the four steps would help a lot. And I try to talk about it below.
The first: better know the main grape. I know who has started a project groppello by the Consorzio del Garda Classico. So the hope is that the project should be sent forward, perhaps alongside a few researchers at the university while willing to technical site.
The second: to learn more about the land, the territory. Need a draft zoning and mica in the classical sense just is not enough, that is, to be told if quell'ettaro is suitable or not the plant that this grape, but I also want to know which characters aromatic grapes he gets from this soil, the climate, the 'exposure. Essential information, if I want to design wines of balance and elegance, finesse and harmony.
The third, leaving the grapes. Alas, the vignerons of Valtenesi - too many, though certainly not all - with the press still love their red grape variety, and therefore groppello and barbera and sangiovese and marzemino, but also for some time more and more Rebus. I think that is an error, grapes still do, rather than to blend. Impossible, absolutely impossible, that all the grapes ripen at the same time. They serve different vinification, aging separated, and then make the cut. Which will vary from year to year, because every year is different, thank goodness. The fourth
: learn quick drying. Not nascondiamocelo: groppello with - which is not suitable grapes, because the compact rather than loose - so often a bit 'of drying, and the thing that I can help. But flash is almost always conducted empirically Thirty days because it has always done so, for tradition. Without question, however, how those grapes changes, modifications, shape their own flavor profile at varying days (giorni!) drying. Lacking scientific evidence, analytical, ch'aiutino the winemaker. The gap must be filled immediately. And then I saw too many local withering entirely inappropriate: all'umidore exposed districts, robbers, without any adjustment.
said that, however they have made important steps forward, convincing, compelling on the forehead of the 'red Valtenesi. And I'm sure - I repeat, I repeat, I confirm, I stress, notes, highlights - that you are ready to take flight. The hype, already: make great red wines. Sure. Rossi Valtenesi. Memo: terroir. With the added value dell'autoctono.
What are 'sti wines? Be patient - repeat - until the next episode.

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And if the withering bad drives out the good? Thank goodness that at least

Angelo Peretti
In economics, and more often for some time in the political jargon, is often cited the so-called Gresham's Law. The one that says bad money drives out good. In fact, the paternity of this assertion has been done a great talk: it seems even that was not even Sir Thomas Gresham, a British trade agent of the sixteenth century, to define it first. Who knows. Likewise, there is squabbling over its interpretation is often true. And since this is a web magazine that cared not strictly economic issues, that's Gresham's Law reproduce a reading of the most basic (and current), noting that over time has always been inclined to spend, with the same nominal value of the coins with the worst metal content and keep instead - and even earn - those with a bit more, say, gold or silver. After all, do so now that there is a currency of paper: first we give away the crumpled, preferring to keep the portfolio that made better, the fine print, as they say collectors. Why
quest'incipit para-economic in this newspaper that talks of wine and (more rarely, I admit, and I'll fix) things edible? Because I fear that Gresham's Law, a bit 'adapted, can be applied to finish the wine. And in particular to Valpolicella wine. In the most quoted: Amarone. Son of withering.
I would not want that in future we should say that the flash was bad drives out good. And I try to explain.
I am a bit 'worried about how I put things on earth valpolicellese, yes. And I'm sorry, because I have several friends over there. But I think a debate should be attempted. Hoping that what I will say it proves wrong, totally wrong. Whether it is only in hallucinations.
Amarone is known to be strong. The grape drying (because - ask the malicious - there's also the other's wrong with fruttai, Valpolicella?) Costs an eye of the head. The earth has taken quotes out of all odds. Well: The vigneron Valpolicella have been able to put hay in the barn. Only
that success has sparked the imagination of Amarone. And greed. And then the flash is not only characteristic of red Amarone (and his historian father, now rejected, Recioto, which I love), but s'utilizza, directly or indirectly, for stepchildren and godchildren. Godson is the Review, and also has great grip on the market. Stepson is every red igt s'avvalga that, in fact, grape dried in the fruttai, and comes out of everything and more.
The Review consists of the ferment on the skins of Amarone Valpolicella. In this way the wine has typical stench of withering. It grows in structure and complexity. The problem is that you immediately - and rightly - places on earth valpolicellese Review was how it was permissible to make in the face of Amarone grapes, pulled out the home. It has come to determine that the grapes that have produced a ton of Amarone can be used to make two tons of fermented Valpolicella. To me, honestly, seems a bit 'too much, but I understand: business is business. So be it. Except that he has not thought that, with the pot, the lid also needed to be done. And so in the skins of Amarone Valpolicella was born, just a business. The
this thing is. Let's say I am a manufacturer of those who do not want to do too much Review. Let's say I have a ton of product and its Amarone pomace I rehearsed one quintal of Valpolicella. I am virtually in the hands of rights equal to a ton of Review on those my skins. I do, those rights ripassevoli waste them? But no: I sell them! And takes money there too. So one else can buy those cards and let me brush up on his fine on my marc quintal of Valpolicella. So the Review takes an impressive number. But do not pay attention to the quality of Valpolicella departure. And it's a mess, said that the Review is seen as a sort of small Amarone: perhaps not still used widely this definition? With a maximum price that is half that of Amarone, but almost always falls far, far down, fourth, fifth.
But not enough. The Valpolicella is that to make the drying of the grapes are masters. And fruttai are perfectly functional, even computerized. So why use them only for dry Amarone grapes? She starts to fade even more stuff: I know, grapes that are not suitable, croakers that will never end in the red key, cabernet planted in a somewhat 'reckless a decade ago in the wake of American-mode. And in the end we derive a certain structure of red tones that echo the original Amarone. Maybe we cut together some barrels of potential Amarone less successful, which does not seem suitable for the doc's main wine, and that's it: was born on super-red drying style. And leaving dozens of IGT fancy (but are actually hundreds of them, believe me). Vaguely amaroneggianti, in fact, even if the quality is often uncertain. A price is almost always still lower than the Review.
Thus it may happen that the same company, derives from a loft Amarone - threw out the prices at random - at € 25-30 a Review at 9-10 to 6-7 and a red igt. And all is, of course, sold. Maybe sending the IGT in emerging markets and those that still are not able absorb pallets of Amarone.
Yeah, but if those markets learn that a flash of red valpolicellese costs 7 €, how will you then, dear husbandmen di Valpolicella, explaining that another red pur'esso withering of your land costs four times as much, although Amarone is called? Review And with all that running, then, and that barrel of alcohol over 14 degrees, and then amaroneggia increasingly, there is the risk of a substitution effect, because of price, all across the range of wine drinkers who spend some figures if they can not (more) afford it? And is there not a danger that the flash drives out the worse better, and thus banish the Ripasso, Amarone el'igt drive out the Review?
I recently told some Valpolicella. One, the door of his ultra-modern winery, has opened his arms and smile on his face, 'he replied: "Until I sell them I will do it, you'll want to throw away mica that all that stuff ..." Yeah, until they Sell, those red, take and take home. That the bank account grows. Then we'll see.
Oh, yes, maybe these things I write because I ate badly, and I do a little 'hard to digest. So I am in a dark mood. And then for me in October (early autumn) is a time of woe, as always, and depresses me. Maybe, yes, I write this, certain things. Or maybe not.

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Gino ... Of the Lugana Lugana


Angelo Peretti is known that gratitude is not of this world. And even less of the wine world. So do not surprise me in the land of quant'accade Lugana, now that you are finally awarded the first "star del Garda degustatoria in defiance of the" age of Lugana.
What it is, let him say to the press release I received: "The challenge called" The Age of Lugana "launched a few years ago by the Consortium wanted a commission of experts and press it to be assessed by comparing the same number of years and then reconfirming the following year. Tentatively producers which came first "experiment" were just ... "and so on. In fact, it was assessing a number of Lugana, put aside those that seemed to have a chance to improve over time, riassaggiarli the next year and the next, and if for three years in a row gave favorable results, then they are rewarded with the star of longevity. And the first three years that have passed the test are two Lugana 2003: Wolf of the Reserve and the Ca Lojera Molceo of Ottelli. Good.
But now I take the opening words of the press release, which is this: "It has always been called the" bet "on the longevity of Lugana and, if the bet was, now, in light of the evidence, we can say that it has been won. Yes, because only a few years ago, protected by the Consorzio Tutela Lugana Lugana Doc was offered to a group of senior journalists in the industry with the clear intention of debunking the belief that they wanted, because white wines are not suitable for proper aging and longevity. Lugana, and they said it was believed to be drunk young and fresh, preferably vintage. Among the non-believers will of the people of this great friend of the producers of Lugana, Luigi Veronelli, urged the producers, especially young people, to produce their Lugana then forget it for a few years in the cellar before you sell it, "you will find surprises and endless satisfaction, "he said. And once time was right. "
Right, absolutely right: Gino was right. But certainly I had it too. When I created this opportunity to compare the longevity Lugana, and Gino did not fit right.
You know, the gratitude is not of this world, and even the world of wine. But seeing as how it is born 'is not matter if it gives nod, I want to take away the fun (and have!) To put the facts straight, and explain.
So, the competition of the "age of Lugana" was in fact designed to house one evening - and then to dinner at his restaurant - Igino Cero (read Cà dei Frati). The year before I accepted the proposal by Paolo Fabiani (read Tenuta Roveglia), then chairman of the Consortium lugana - today is Francis Montresor (read Ottelli) - have to be placed sixth in the old contest of the star of the Garda. Only the samples that m'annoiai things, also because the formulation of priority by the tasting of wine he had made away with some nice wine, because - I believe - they had just considered 'typical' (ah, how many crimes along the way the typical!). In short, we made a little less wine than they foresaw the regulation. And then I explained the choices, in a memorable (for me, and for many producers, who still remember me) report: too much wood, too soft, too much oxidation, explained, a bit 'roughly even.
formula, I said, it was objectively old, outdated. Among the less convinced of the operation was Hyginus, who instead wanted something that would be able to shed light on the prerogatives of white Lugana in terms of ability to resist the passage of time (and beautiful bottles of yesteryear I Frati Lugana I could taste!). So, in a conversation, I pulled out the idea that the public judge the wines of the vintage in a sort of popular competition, but which reporters were asked to bet, in fact, the longevity of wine, with repeated sampling in the three years . In short, there is also my signature on this operation, thank goodness. But the press do not see any trace ohibò. But I understand: gratitude, and so on.
I say then that the contest still tasting of the "age of Lugana" I attended only the first year, my choice, so I was not there this time either, nor the previous one, and who needs to know the reason of absence, the know, but these are my chores, which do not detract from the wine. And I add that the two winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are really representative Lugana. And I had great doubts, however, that would be arrived at the finish. Moreover, had none in October already spoken two years ago. And if you understandably do not want to read the piece, I just report below quant'avevo then written on the two winning wines today.
First, the reserve of Ca 'del Lupo 2003 Lojera: "First wine to have passed the selection - I said - is the Lugana Riserva Cà del Lupo 2003 Lojera. For me, it's a genuine star. Lugana probably one of the best I've ever been given of taste. I've already drunk several times, and I always proved to be of enormous character. Perhaps difficult now to understand. Why still closed, nervous. But, to my mind, intended to fascinating future. It is made of steel. Only steel, no wood. Alcohol, although supported, is almost masked by a vivid freshness, quite unusual for a warm vintage which is a child. Emerge stench of citrus (lemon, grapefruit) and then citronella ed'erba mowing. The vegetables are all round. The minerality is there that would like to get out. The final, long, play in shades of green almond and colorofilla. Let it rest again, and give you satisfaction. I bet indeed. " The winning bet, then. And I am happy. And I confirm: the best Lugana I drank here (and I assure you that the button often the key and still frequently).
Now, Lugana Superiore Molceo Ottelli of 2003: "Then - then I wrote - the Lugana Molceo Ottelli of 2003. We are in the category of wines aged in wood. And Molceo again confirms a very good expression Lugana. Thick, fat, silky, yet also Citrine, lush sage. The passage in the barrel hardly feel it. You realize just for a vein of vanilla behind the large structure. It should not have their own problems to unravel the best in the three years that is. " And here too bet proved correct. And I am glad that Montresor know their stuff, and they work well, and is very good co 'white Prà Flavio, who is a consultant.
Now, another comment. Above I said that both the winners, the Wolf and the Molceo, are representative Lugana. They represent, I mean, the two schools of thought Lugana. The first, to the Riserva Cà del Lupo Lojera, is a wine made from steel, that nothing grants to the smoothness, but is betting everything on freshness, and plant and mineral. The other, of Molceo Ottelli, switching back into the wood, and plays on the soft fleshy fruit, a layer of vanigliatura on the sweet seduction. I recognize, of the Molceo Ottelli, much pleasure. And it is definitely the style that today pays more in the market. The style followed by most manufacturers Lugana. But I - you know - I prefer the other school. The one that concedes nothing to the softness and sweetness. That of Ca and its Lojera Wolf in 2003. Lugana that is, for me - I've written several times - red masked by white (I also take this mica, definition, right?), And woe if no one takes out his sharp, rough soul that comes from clay of Lugana, the land was forest and swamp, first to see the vineyard. But you are always free to tell me I'm wrong. Or not say anything at all, as the consortium. Thank goodness there is at least Gino, in a quote. And certainly I have no doubt I worth not one, but sometimes not misrepresent him, and glory to His memory will be missed.
What do you say? What are touchy? Yes, its true: permalosissimo, admit it. But I would like to see you, for me, strawberry!
POSTSCRIPT: The escalamazione, strawberry!, Is not covered properly in my vocabulary (which I recognize to be generally more colorful relevant physiology and often figuratively masculine), but it taught me a certain person, and I find it appropriate, Having promised not to exceed, in writing.

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Quaranta and silence, and (perhaps) shared: Bardolino at the turn

Angelo Peretti
This time I give up. I've done it a few times in the past, and willingly Rifo once again: I leave my room for the intervention of others. And the other question is in Giorgio Tommasi, Cantina di Castelnuovo President, one of three consortiums of land on Lake Garda's eastern shore.
Tommasi should join me and Franco Cristoforetti (Villabella) and his friend Nereo Pederzolli, a journalist who I admire, at the meeting that the Consortium has organized the Bardolino Grape Festival: Harvest of the fortieth bardolino doc, was the theme. We were in Bardolino, I mean. In fact, he has participated, but I who was known as moderator of the meeting, I decided to put it on the chat, and I then asked to summarize. Only, rereading it, this intervention had written that I liked, and I asked him if I gave a copy, and right now I share the content. Because it's not so cionsueto in my thoughts Facciani benacense earth so all round.
me say at once, and mica to make the contrarian, I fully agree that not everything, but it is natural that may be so. And the point of sharing is not complete when - you read it - it speaks of vines, that Thomas would return to enhance the complexity, just as the origins of Bardolino, and I appreciate the intent that this would lead to remake the wine and salt that was nicely drinkable. And it is true, however, that says: the first zoning. In order to see which are really suited the vines on the ground floor. So already there is a distinction. Personally, though, and I wrote several times, I am terroirista: that is, I believe in terroir. More than in the vine, which I think only one of a hundred characters of the terroir, of course. So the only grape m'intriga part, especially because I want the wine trasparisse the soul of the place and the genius of the man who lives in that place, the genius loci, as if saying those things n'intende of sociology and the like.
That said, hooray! I like what I wrote Tommasi. And there I suggest reading. Which finally returns to earth in my thinking. And the revival bardolino could be there to get.

Producing a quality Bardolino
Giorgio Tommasi
I believe that when I was asked to express my opinion on how to produce a quality Bardolino, it is done because the Cantina di Castelnuovo, which chair, with its nearly three hundred members, is the largest producer of Bardolino, but also because for me, as Angelo Peretti, the first wine drunk was just the Bardolino (in fact, a few drops of Recioto of Lazise, \u200b\u200bin the first years of life ). And because I enjoy the reputation of being strict, perhaps too, in requiring compliance with rules that are aimed at obtaining quality wines. However, as I prepare
rearrange ideas to carry the theme, I realized how large it was compared to the need for synthesis and complex for me they are not really an expert.
It has presented the problem of defining what constitutes a quality Bardolino: For me, the wine is produced with best grapes from the traditional varieties in the right mixture, grown in the best vineyards within the zone delimited by the rules.
a definition may seem self-evident, but not all were, and I agree.
to follow step by step I see the proposed definition.
wine. For me, winemaking is simply favor and follow the natural process of fermentation, maceration and aging without introducing strange artifacts (eg the barrel), making best use of what technology offers us to reproduce on a large scale and with predictable results that millennia of experience have taught us.
traditional varieties. Here begins to emerge is an issue that very few wines, namely the presence of many varieties of grapes. I think it's impractical and probably unnecessary to return to the dozens of varieties used in fifty, a hundred or two hundred years ago. But some points are needed. Corvina and Rondinella are fine, but how to make a real without molinara Bardolino (almost always mentioned in the back label, but almost never present), without Negrara sangiovese and, without a hint of Garganega and fernanda? And then the most recently introduced varieties: yes to small amounts of merlot (which in our hills is of great quality) and Barbera, who have centuries-old tradition, the cabernet that has to do not like cabbage.
right mix. It is impossible to fix rates precise: for each producer the recipe. I will only record a tendency to overdo the corvina, probably owing to a shortage of quality grapes of the other varieties.
In the best vineyards. We are faced with another problem particularly acute in the area of \u200b\u200bBardolino: the exaggerated variability of the soil, coming from pedogenic substrates transported by the glacier in four ice ages (although only the last two are important). It is therefore essential to emphasize the importance of macro and micro zoning, which allows identification of the plots with different characteristics, but optimal for the cultivation of the vine, and those to be banned: this is, in my opinion, the priority absolute for Bardolino! We thought our ancestors had already relying on the experience of millennia, and now for many reasons we need to use modern scientific tools such as soil testing, microvinification, and so on.
Continuing to define the best vineyards hint at the kind of farming and planting density. Fortunately it is quite simple: that's fine Guyot, who also approaches the spin-head already used for some time (I cultivate vineyards set so that sixty years of age) and the densities are fine between four thousand and five thousand plants per hectare .
Concerning rootstocks and clones, we return to the complexity and problems. We are with vineyards in the last years of the century with vigorous rootstocks (such as the notorious Kober), too productive clones and expanded forms, which coexist with the new system certainly addressed to the quality, but still young to give us the best bunches. And on the clones is desirable to intensify efforts to re-select the few remaining ancient vineyards, so as not to fall into the standardization of the grapes.
without a reminder of agronomic practices, it would be too long. Just a thought: the vine needs to suffer a bit ', and then only possible relief irrigation.
Following the approach proposed, I believe that we get not one, but many Bardolino quality, which may from time to time, be ready, lightweight and to be drunk young, or more structured and suitable for aging a few years, with more or less color, more or less salty and so forth, but all unmistakably Bardolino.
Finally, a nod to the role of wineries: in every denomination, are critical to the balance of the supply chain and must be geared to reward the quality of the grapes. As early as 1903, when they were born the first cooperatives, the Marescalchi identified as the main problem, the evaluation of the grapes of members, listing six different ways to define quality. It spent more than a century, but the problem is always present. The difference is that today are investigational advanced technological tools that allow the measurement of key quality parameters.
The choice of how to remunerate the different grapes has a substantial effect on the behavior and decisions of the member, not only in the short, but in the medium and long term, affecting an entire area of \u200b\u200bviticulture.
conclude with best wishes on your birthday in Bardolino ... and as they say life begins at forty!
Giorgio Tommasi

And now I close by landlord, em'associo: forward with the next four.