My Rabbit Died During Spay

The clos lakeside

Angelo Peretti
we were in France, the call Close. A small piece of land - a vineyard - all enclosed by ancient city walls. Instead we are near the Garda. In Portes, municipality of San Felice del Benaco. Riva Lombardy, Brescia, of the West. Just behind the last houses of the village.
to evoke the fenced fund is the name of the company: the closures. And to handle the aziendina - four acres of vineyard in all - is Alexander Luzzago. Along with Paula, his wife. He took to making wine in '90. Before working in publishing at the graph, the legendary (at least for me) micro publisher of that which was enlightened visionary Roberto Montagnoli, the only one who would (perhaps) could really create a common culture of the whole lake, and instead that the death has snatched too soon. But these are my blues. What with the land
sciuri Luzzago the feeling he had in any case you read that moved to take a degree in agriculture. And with the house and the land we had Portese however familiar, because we spent the summers: it was since the war that his had a habit of leaving the city life in favor of the coast, at least in the days of heat.
The place is cute. A sentinel to the ancient entrance gate there are two monumental mulberry (already existing, natural monuments). On the side overlooking the street, a small church dedicated to Saint Anne, if I understand it opens to the faithful once a year, still used as Seize rural speakers. The doorway, a small courtyard which gives a classic rural building Lumbard, with double gallery. Fascinating. There
ago Luzzago on that his plot (and a little more closely), a few bottles of four different wines: a Claret, a Groppello, and two blends, which are the Campei (barbera, sangiovese and marzemino) and the Malborghetto (Rebus, in a bit of merlot and barbera). Well it is that I want to talk, the Malborghetto. What I found interesting the last two years out, 2003 and 2004. So I went for a ride to Portese. And Alexander Luzzago me the courtesy to get used to the cellar and bring up even the last seven years, and then also got me a test tank of 2005 (already in steel, assembled, after the passage of wood, the wine one year ago barriue, but what I like is that the oak did not feel it, and nemanco roasting) and a taste from the barrel of 2006. And it is certainly quite common to make a vertical of nine vintages of a wine coastal, lake, Garda area. And equally rare is that it can buy, for a wine of the coast, several years, and instead are selling here, together, the 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2004 (The 2002 is not made: first and hail too much rain), and offer them at different prices: 20 Euros in the first, 16 second, 17 third and 14 fourth, taking into account the age and the outcome of the vintage, and refining. Unbelievable: it looks to star in France, where such things are the practice. In short I'll really talk about Clos closure, the Franciosa.
add that, in fact, I tried almost the entire history of Malborghetto (by the way is a Benaco Bresciano IGT), from '97 to 2006. Excluding the '94 and '96, which no longer exists even a ball. While I am not produced nor the 2002 or '95, that was terrible weather on the shore of Lake Garda Brescia.
A hint to the grapes. The actual size of Malborghetto projects a slight predominance of merlot, and then the Rebus, and finally just a hint of barbera. Barbera Lake Garda in the west has been cultivated for the time is a mandatory part Garda Classico Rosso (together with groppello, Marzemino and sangiovese). The merlot you know it. The Rebus is having increasing success in Valtenesi area. And it is, this Rebus, a blend of merlot and marzemino designed in '48 by Rebo Rigotti Stazione Sperimentale di San Michele Adige: Trentino, native country, do not seem to give much credit to this half-breed, and instead the vigneron del Benaco Lombard grant him a lot of confidence, and the results seem to give their reason. We'll see what the future holds.
Now, at last cards of the wines. With two judgments: and Faccini cents.
Malborghetto 1997 Color exhaust, a little 'orange. The nose reveals traces of oxidation, but still resists fruit. And it has tar. The mouth opens well: sophisticated, yes, but still has freshness. I would say iodized, even, salty (and will be a presence in other years). Piccolino, the fruit. Is declining, but drinking more.
78/100 - almost two and a face :-)
Malborghetto 1998 bright red livery. Nose initially confusing, almost garlic. Then she cleans, but the fruit difficult to express. And even in the presence fruity mouth feel, but most compressed, convoluted. And there's a sour mood that seems broken. Too bad. The year less convincing among those tested.
74/100 - nothing Faccini
Malborghetto 1999 Solitaire. In the sense which is result in the end, very different on the other. With that strong green note, among the herbaceous and the memory of pepper. Lean, fresh, tasty. He has good tannin, giovanilissimo. And juicy red fruit. Still, the mood had already found that iodine in '97. If he had a hair long, in most ...
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2000 color beautiful, bright ruby. Charmingly fruity nose (overripe cherry, jam), aristocratically grafted veins from eucalyptus, pepper. It has fine memories tarred. The mouth is just as fascinating. Thick, fleshy. Almost chewy, fruit. And well-defined tannins. Great fine wine.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2001 What strange nose ... Even those feelings iodine, but I would say more marked. Even the tar tar. But the fruit seems to me compressed. The mouth shows off character. Meaty, savory. Warm. Hints of licorice. Behold, the tannin dries a bit ', which is a shame, because the progression of the fruit it is stopped.
82/100 - two Faccini :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2003 The bottle tasted in the company was wrong, did not convince me. A little 'crush. But at home I had another and I have open, and thank goodness I found myself a nice 2003 that I remembered: fruit, fruit, fruit. Dense, fleshy, enveloping. And there is momentum progression. And beautiful pepatura. And length of all respect.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2004 the long run, this 2004 will end up beating the fascinating 2000, I bet. I like it. It has fruit and herbaceous note (officinale) together. And pretty mouth: there are tension, character. And here's the juicy red fruit and dense. And good tannin, integrated. Concedes nothing to the matchmaking: it is all rustic and elegant. Good.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2005 should bottle these days and will be on sale until the spring of 2005. I've tasted a test of the tub, not even the final wine. Epper already feel that we have. Maybe not as beautiful as the two previous years, but in principle, yes, in terms of character and elegance.
speculate 83-86/100 - too early for Faccini
Malborghetto 2006 Just a taste from the barrel. But already feel beautiful fruit, crisp, mature. And is the result of interest in both the olfactory test in the taste. In short, if the good days you can see it in the morning, this 2006 is promising indeed. Maybe a year is a bit 'small, but there is elegance, yes.
84-87/100 speculate, but it is a gamble - no Faccini, of course, that this or just a hint of wine.

How To Know Smps Is Working

Persuaders three

Angelo Peretti
If you remember them you are not sure of adolescents. I remember them, ergo adolescence, at least by birth, has gone from a little bit. I refer to Roger Moore and Tony Curtis when they did 'The Persuaders'. Here in Italy, was "The Persuaders." On television. There was an abbreviation of those memorable, composed by John Barry (and made a nice version a few years ago Cherry Cat Against the Big Chill, weird name for an Italian band who makes music and lying dazed: not easy to find the disk but if you happen ...).
All this being said, admit it, Only in some way to justify the title that I put on the piece: "Beware of those three." Because I want to talk about a trio of Lugana that certainly are not among the best known. But who have pulled out of its beautiful white, with the harvest of 2006. And Okay, okay, these three instead of two, but still deserve attention, and van followed. Provided (and hoping) that then there is continuity. And this is a big issue for the area of \u200b\u200bLugana I know from experience that every year comes out better than expected, but not so easy to confirm harvest after harvest. That maybe the company is tiny and there is therefore perhaps half to grand'investimenti technology in the cellar (and knowledge, and advice). But in the land of Lugana you can not compromise, that this car white important, but difficult. It is difficult to interpret, the thresh of the clay. And to maintain tension, and heart, and taste, and length, and clean fruit and mineral vein. Without stating the sdolcinatura fashionable, or worse yet, in actual it is lacking. And this is the other problem of Lugana: I understand that they're soft, sweets, and I understand them so that they sell easily, but I said before, and I repeat, that is so little, Lugana, that would be better to nourish best ambition, and therefore make great white, off by fashion and trend of the moment, who runs (mind you: flee!).
So, I report the news with the benefit of future inventory. Fingers crossed for them. And signals, I might add, with satisfaction, which is good to see as the territory moves, and put new names alongside the historic signatures.
Who are the new names? Here they are: House Magdalene, Citaro, Feliciana. Mica want to tell me which are the usual suspects guidaiole rating, right?
House Of Magdalena something I wrote, reviewing the very Lugana 2006, a few weeks ago. I said that is a tiny peak: around quattr'ettari or so. "But those few vines - I wrote - Metton roots in one of the finest cru Lugana, believe me. " I am convinced for some time: in the past I've tasted Lugana value with their label. But not all the vintages have been the same level. Just to give the coordinates for those who want to go, know that I am stuck in Ca 'dei Frati. The town is Sirmione. The name of the farm seems to be the fact that Mary Magdalene was the owner of the fund when it bought the grandfather of the vigneron, and also the grandfather had married a woman named Mary Magdalene. Now run the smallholding Luciano Zordan and his wife Raffaella Molinari. And they say they are proud of farming still used as a time, with the hoe. They do a Lugana, a red and a rosé.
Citara tasted a beautiful San Martino della Battaglia, a base of white grapes Tocai. M'è stuck in my mind. Then I no longer drink their stuff a long time. Never seen in person, never been in the company. It seems to me to be almost in the shadow of the tower of San Martino Risorgimento, the town of Desenzano del Garda. In all, ten acres of vineyard, with various cultivars. Lugana make little: just a thousand bottles, well if I read the notes he gave me. From a vineyard that I think is so little and young, although, as I am told, that has an average of about five strains. Only steel in the basement for the White Lugana. According to deplinat, as well as Lugana and San Martino are a Chardonnay, a Garda Classico Rosso and a spumante.
Feliciana is a farm, in Pozzolengo. Never been there either. SIAA And I think the first time I taste their wines. On business cards that have made me from a farm guesthouse is written that they 'dishes and flavors of the Garda. " So it is not like, but I'll go: of course if at the table offering their Lugana 2006, can put together what they want, because only wine worth the trip. Or rather, to make it even two Lugana. The first is the base made of steel. The other is a selection, for which even make late harvest and drying, and then put it in barrels for six months and yet I say it is dry most of the other. The wine making is just lugana: Lugana eight thousand bottles of the base, three thousand of the other. Below
boards wines. Lugana four to three companies, then. With the assessment and cents into smilies. 2006 Cascina

Lugana Lugana Maddalena
this or that personality, and maybe he needs some time to manifest itself fully. And indeed I found it again a little bit hard on the nose, which is in fact back to show the fruit, and it takes patience to wait in the glass. In the mouth instead have now played all right on the fruit and the minerality and freshness. He has power and structure and character. Secco. And rusticheggia.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Lugana The Shells 2006 Citaro
nose opens with reluctance. And then, however, outlines beautiful scents of white flowers. The mouth opens but immediately, immediately, on floral and white fruit, luscious and ripe. And it is wine that has fresh saline: lovely acidity, as the saying goes those who use certain techniques. It has good length on the fruit. In short, lies on the fruit in a final interesting. Not bad overall as evidence.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Lugana 2006 Feliciana
Ha, this Lugana, green nose, with tones that I like chlorophyll found in Lugana, for I know that eventually becomes the veins intersect with thinner degl'idrocarburi. It has hints of pear, too. And then the mouth is on the same tones, and even that I should be: fresh, salted, slender. There are no maturissimo white fruit. It has length. Sorry a bit 'Dolcina only one known on the bottom, my anger Lugana.
78/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Lugana Serco 2006 Feliciana
opened the smell after initial hesitation, green veins appear here already and even minerals. In the mouth there is considerable tension and fatness and richness of fruit and power. Sure, vanigliatura appears, that the wine made in step wood. But the oak does not s'avverte. It is perfectly possible to compensate, the notes of vanilla, with fleshy fruit. That the structure is remarkable and so the character. And the length as well.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini