Angelo Peretti
we were in France, the call Close. A small piece of land - a vineyard - all enclosed by ancient city walls. Instead we are near the Garda. In Portes, municipality of San Felice del Benaco. Riva Lombardy, Brescia, of the West. Just behind the last houses of the village.
to evoke the fenced fund is the name of the company: the closures. And to handle the aziendina - four acres of vineyard in all - is Alexander Luzzago. Along with Paula, his wife. He took to making wine in '90. Before working in publishing at the graph, the legendary (at least for me) micro publisher of that which was enlightened visionary Roberto Montagnoli, the only one who would (perhaps) could really create a common culture of the whole lake, and instead that the death has snatched too soon. But these are my blues. What with the land
sciuri Luzzago the feeling he had in any case you read that moved to take a degree in agriculture. And with the house and the land we had Portese however familiar, because we spent the summers: it was since the war that his had a habit of leaving the city life in favor of the coast, at least in the days of heat.
The place is cute. A sentinel to the ancient entrance gate there are two monumental mulberry (already existing, natural monuments). On the side overlooking the street, a small church dedicated to Saint Anne, if I understand it opens to the faithful once a year, still used as Seize rural speakers. The doorway, a small courtyard which gives a classic rural building Lumbard, with double gallery. Fascinating. There
ago Luzzago on that his plot (and a little more closely), a few bottles of four different wines: a Claret, a Groppello, and two blends, which are the Campei (barbera, sangiovese and marzemino) and the Malborghetto (Rebus, in a bit of merlot and barbera). Well it is that I want to talk, the Malborghetto. What I found interesting the last two years out, 2003 and 2004. So I went for a ride to Portese. And Alexander Luzzago me the courtesy to get used to the cellar and bring up even the last seven years, and then also got me a test tank of 2005 (already in steel, assembled, after the passage of wood, the wine one year ago barriue, but what I like is that the oak did not feel it, and nemanco roasting) and a taste from the barrel of 2006. And it is certainly quite common to make a vertical of nine vintages of a wine coastal, lake, Garda area. And equally rare is that it can buy, for a wine of the coast, several years, and instead are selling here, together, the 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2004 (The 2002 is not made: first and hail too much rain), and offer them at different prices: 20 Euros in the first, 16 second, 17 third and 14 fourth, taking into account the age and the outcome of the vintage, and refining. Unbelievable: it looks to star in France, where such things are the practice. In short I'll really talk about Clos closure, the Franciosa.
add that, in fact, I tried almost the entire history of Malborghetto (by the way is a Benaco Bresciano IGT), from '97 to 2006. Excluding the '94 and '96, which no longer exists even a ball. While I am not produced nor the 2002 or '95, that was terrible weather on the shore of Lake Garda Brescia.
A hint to the grapes. The actual size of Malborghetto projects a slight predominance of merlot, and then the Rebus, and finally just a hint of barbera. Barbera Lake Garda in the west has been cultivated for the time is a mandatory part Garda Classico Rosso (together with groppello, Marzemino and sangiovese). The merlot you know it. The Rebus is having increasing success in Valtenesi area. And it is, this Rebus, a blend of merlot and marzemino designed in '48 by Rebo Rigotti Stazione Sperimentale di San Michele Adige: Trentino, native country, do not seem to give much credit to this half-breed, and instead the vigneron del Benaco Lombard grant him a lot of confidence, and the results seem to give their reason. We'll see what the future holds.
Now, at last cards of the wines. With two judgments: and Faccini cents.
Malborghetto 1997 Color exhaust, a little 'orange. The nose reveals traces of oxidation, but still resists fruit. And it has tar. The mouth opens well: sophisticated, yes, but still has freshness. I would say iodized, even, salty (and will be a presence in other years). Piccolino, the fruit. Is declining, but drinking more.
78/100 - almost two and a face :-)
Malborghetto 1998 bright red livery. Nose initially confusing, almost garlic. Then she cleans, but the fruit difficult to express. And even in the presence fruity mouth feel, but most compressed, convoluted. And there's a sour mood that seems broken. Too bad. The year less convincing among those tested.
74/100 - nothing Faccini
Malborghetto 1999 Solitaire. In the sense which is result in the end, very different on the other. With that strong green note, among the herbaceous and the memory of pepper. Lean, fresh, tasty. He has good tannin, giovanilissimo. And juicy red fruit. Still, the mood had already found that iodine in '97. If he had a hair long, in most ...
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2000 color beautiful, bright ruby. Charmingly fruity nose (overripe cherry, jam), aristocratically grafted veins from eucalyptus, pepper. It has fine memories tarred. The mouth is just as fascinating. Thick, fleshy. Almost chewy, fruit. And well-defined tannins. Great fine wine.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2001 What strange nose ... Even those feelings iodine, but I would say more marked. Even the tar tar. But the fruit seems to me compressed. The mouth shows off character. Meaty, savory. Warm. Hints of licorice. Behold, the tannin dries a bit ', which is a shame, because the progression of the fruit it is stopped.
82/100 - two Faccini :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2003 The bottle tasted in the company was wrong, did not convince me. A little 'crush. But at home I had another and I have open, and thank goodness I found myself a nice 2003 that I remembered: fruit, fruit, fruit. Dense, fleshy, enveloping. And there is momentum progression. And beautiful pepatura. And length of all respect.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2004 the long run, this 2004 will end up beating the fascinating 2000, I bet. I like it. It has fruit and herbaceous note (officinale) together. And pretty mouth: there are tension, character. And here's the juicy red fruit and dense. And good tannin, integrated. Concedes nothing to the matchmaking: it is all rustic and elegant. Good.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2005 should bottle these days and will be on sale until the spring of 2005. I've tasted a test of the tub, not even the final wine. Epper already feel that we have. Maybe not as beautiful as the two previous years, but in principle, yes, in terms of character and elegance.
speculate 83-86/100 - too early for Faccini
Malborghetto 2006 Just a taste from the barrel. But already feel beautiful fruit, crisp, mature. And is the result of interest in both the olfactory test in the taste. In short, if the good days you can see it in the morning, this 2006 is promising indeed. Maybe a year is a bit 'small, but there is elegance, yes.
84-87/100 speculate, but it is a gamble - no Faccini, of course, that this or just a hint of wine.
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