Angelo Peretti
If you remember them you are not sure of adolescents. I remember them, ergo adolescence, at least by birth, has gone from a little bit. I refer to Roger Moore and Tony Curtis when they did 'The Persuaders'. Here in Italy, was "The Persuaders." On television. There was an abbreviation of those memorable, composed by John Barry (and made a nice version a few years ago Cherry Cat Against the Big Chill, weird name for an Italian band who makes music and lying dazed: not easy to find the disk but if you happen ...).
All this being said, admit it, Only in some way to justify the title that I put on the piece: "Beware of those three." Because I want to talk about a trio of Lugana that certainly are not among the best known. But who have pulled out of its beautiful white, with the harvest of 2006. And Okay, okay, these three instead of two, but still deserve attention, and van followed. Provided (and hoping) that then there is continuity. And this is a big issue for the area of \u200b\u200bLugana I know from experience that every year comes out better than expected, but not so easy to confirm harvest after harvest. That maybe the company is tiny and there is therefore perhaps half to grand'investimenti technology in the cellar (and knowledge, and advice). But in the land of Lugana you can not compromise, that this car white important, but difficult. It is difficult to interpret, the thresh of the clay. And to maintain tension, and heart, and taste, and length, and clean fruit and mineral vein. Without stating the sdolcinatura fashionable, or worse yet, in actual it is lacking. And this is the other problem of Lugana: I understand that they're soft, sweets, and I understand them so that they sell easily, but I said before, and I repeat, that is so little, Lugana, that would be better to nourish best ambition, and therefore make great white, off by fashion and trend of the moment, who runs (mind you: flee!).
So, I report the news with the benefit of future inventory. Fingers crossed for them. And signals, I might add, with satisfaction, which is good to see as the territory moves, and put new names alongside the historic signatures.
Who are the new names? Here they are: House Magdalene, Citaro, Feliciana. Mica want to tell me which are the usual suspects guidaiole rating, right?
House Of Magdalena something I wrote, reviewing the very Lugana 2006, a few weeks ago. I said that is a tiny peak: around quattr'ettari or so. "But those few vines - I wrote - Metton roots in one of the finest cru Lugana, believe me. " I am convinced for some time: in the past I've tasted Lugana value with their label. But not all the vintages have been the same level. Just to give the coordinates for those who want to go, know that I am stuck in Ca 'dei Frati. The town is Sirmione. The name of the farm seems to be the fact that Mary Magdalene was the owner of the fund when it bought the grandfather of the vigneron, and also the grandfather had married a woman named Mary Magdalene. Now run the smallholding Luciano Zordan and his wife Raffaella Molinari. And they say they are proud of farming still used as a time, with the hoe. They do a Lugana, a red and a rosé.
Citara tasted a beautiful San Martino della Battaglia, a base of white grapes Tocai. M'è stuck in my mind. Then I no longer drink their stuff a long time. Never seen in person, never been in the company. It seems to me to be almost in the shadow of the tower of San Martino Risorgimento, the town of Desenzano del Garda. In all, ten acres of vineyard, with various cultivars. Lugana make little: just a thousand bottles, well if I read the notes he gave me. From a vineyard that I think is so little and young, although, as I am told, that has an average of about five strains. Only steel in the basement for the White Lugana. According to deplinat, as well as Lugana and San Martino are a Chardonnay, a Garda Classico Rosso and a spumante.
Feliciana is a farm, in Pozzolengo. Never been there either. SIAA And I think the first time I taste their wines. On business cards that have made me from a farm guesthouse is written that they 'dishes and flavors of the Garda. " So it is not like, but I'll go: of course if at the table offering their Lugana 2006, can put together what they want, because only wine worth the trip. Or rather, to make it even two Lugana. The first is the base made of steel. The other is a selection, for which even make late harvest and drying, and then put it in barrels for six months and yet I say it is dry most of the other. The wine making is just lugana: Lugana eight thousand bottles of the base, three thousand of the other. Below
boards wines. Lugana four to three companies, then. With the assessment and cents into smilies. 2006 Cascina
Lugana Lugana Maddalena
this or that personality, and maybe he needs some time to manifest itself fully. And indeed I found it again a little bit hard on the nose, which is in fact back to show the fruit, and it takes patience to wait in the glass. In the mouth instead have now played all right on the fruit and the minerality and freshness. He has power and structure and character. Secco. And rusticheggia.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Lugana The Shells 2006 Citaro
nose opens with reluctance. And then, however, outlines beautiful scents of white flowers. The mouth opens but immediately, immediately, on floral and white fruit, luscious and ripe. And it is wine that has fresh saline: lovely acidity, as the saying goes those who use certain techniques. It has good length on the fruit. In short, lies on the fruit in a final interesting. Not bad overall as evidence.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini
Lugana 2006 Feliciana
Ha, this Lugana, green nose, with tones that I like chlorophyll found in Lugana, for I know that eventually becomes the veins intersect with thinner degl'idrocarburi. It has hints of pear, too. And then the mouth is on the same tones, and even that I should be: fresh, salted, slender. There are no maturissimo white fruit. It has length. Sorry a bit 'Dolcina only one known on the bottom, my anger Lugana.
78/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini
Lugana Serco 2006 Feliciana
opened the smell after initial hesitation, green veins appear here already and even minerals. In the mouth there is considerable tension and fatness and richness of fruit and power. Sure, vanigliatura appears, that the wine made in step wood. But the oak does not s'avverte. It is perfectly possible to compensate, the notes of vanilla, with fleshy fruit. That the structure is remarkable and so the character. And the length as well.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini
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