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The hill, the lake, the rain and the Franciacorta

Angelo Peretti
You are a bad driver, in the sense that certainly do not like the car to madness, but when there is too much traffic going regularly live. Sometimes I have to cross when safe on the Milan-Brescia Venezia: all the chaos of cars and trucks give me discomfort. And maybe more I attorney anarchy roadway that is just off the highway, on highways and freeways leading into the city of Brescia and in the suburbs, between rows and rows of warehouses, and going crazy with people who seem not to able to do is push on the accelerator even where you should not run (could). So here
I'm headed there with a little 'anxiety in Franciacorta, in a late morning month of November that it was raining cats and dogs, having had to first pass the infernal triptych Brescia east-central-west and then zigzagging between the metal snake of cars and trucks outside the Rovato. The
however, is that I waited for my first real immersion in the reality bubble Franciacorta (other previous visits had been touched and leaks), so the trip was worth it. This time m'avevano organized a visit to those of Sata, agronomists assault agency (in particular rintrazio Marco Tonni proposed to me the day Franciacorta), with the balance of the earth and believe the vineyard. So be careful not to harbor Falsely soils, which means, for example, no chemistry, and healthy manure, however, between the rows. And then Mark was waiting for me Zizioli, young winemaker with strong personalities, he also consultant in Franciacorta, Sata in close harmony with the group.
I'll tell you now that, despite the traffic approaching - then there a few steps from Lake Iseo things have changed for the better, and quite a bit - and I am caught grand'inzuppata, the piece of Franciacorta I met I liked it, and quite a bit '. And indeed remains the vineyards and the rain that continued to roar formed together, something beautiful. Or maybe it's that to me, lakeside, those gray skies, I am sad that air family, and also the usual m'è moraine hill planted with vines, and then I reflected in this land a stone's throw from the lake, while a little boy. And I found some fascinating glimpses as to the bogs, the vineyard of the Grove (I think I will call it that, is not it?) Family Bosio. And spick (you can tell?) I found the hill in Provaglio was planted in the vineyard by Chiara Ziliani. And then all is beautiful and close and dense vineyards. Following the example of Champagne. And the work of agronomic advice you see it, touch it with his hand.
And then you do everything in Franciacorta with entrepreneurship sum, and therefore it is said that good wine is made mainly in the vineyard, well, 'here we take the agronomist to prepare the vineyard, which makes the result so good fruit on which then - only then - will have to engage the winemaker. And so it ends up that even the little ones, maybe not the agronomic advice if they can still afford it, imitate others, and thus is well-run around the vineyard - or almost - Franciacorta.
And this does not mean standardization. That the terroir affects, and how, if not approval points. So here is that the bubbles of Franciacorta seem to follow two different paths: one focusing on green and flowery, and those that highlight the Fruttino and pulp.
The other stylistic diversification is instead: some people (most) looks at the softness, and then put sugar in high enough liqueur, and it also brings commercially today, and who still stubbornly (evviva! But I am little bit) s'ostina to prefer sour and nervous.
Then there is the third variety, one that divides the bubbles between brut (and here you put into it even though the extra brut and rarely done pas dose) and satèn, yet another genius of Franciacorta, born fifteen years ago when he more smoothness by the lower pressure, and now growing assertiveness. For then the success is in Franciacorta everyday life: there is zero problems selling, for those who can make the step right. And the pace here seem to keep almost everyone.
Now, finally, some of the four wine farms visited, all followed by a Ziioli and agronomists Sata.

Franciacorta Satèn Ziliani C - Chiara Ziliani not vintage, but the harvest is only one reference, that of 2004, and the disgorging is June. He vanilla nose and almost, I would say, buttery, and briochina apricot, and elegance and flower. It is also the floral palate, and is also green, vegetable, and I like this refreshing enthusiasm. There is length, and relaxation. Then gradually opens to the small fruit tart. It has nice length. Son of young vines, which had only three years when the grape harvest, says that the hill is right. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Boschedòr Franciacorta Extra Brut 2003 - Bosio Oh, my goodness, a vintage of 2003! Year of the heat, you'd think that ill-suited to the bubble, and Vintage then, and even extra brut, never mind! But the wine is quite interesting. Thirty-three months on the lees, it has been. It offers the nose and hazel nut and mineral vein and below the crust of freshly baked bread. In the mouth, here is the bubble has a creamy, well-modulated. And is expressed in good measure freshness. And there's fruit, citrus and so (the orange, its skin). And a lot of nice balmy vein. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Satèn Franciacorta - Riva di Franciacorta The first harvest of the company, baby, was that of 2005, and so this (along with the brut), the first wine produced, and was briefly on the yeast therefore 19 months or so. And it was just foul-mouthed a couple of months ago. Yet the conditions are good. The nose has lovely citrus notes and the mouth is on the same level Epper also innervated memories of elegant white flower. The structure is not as impressive, but there is elegance. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Franciacorta Satèn - Far bolicina Valley on a farm. Good bubble, the beautiful farm (and all around the vineyard, in a valley), the substance of the kitchen. Kitchen and Franciacorta go hand in hand, and the dishes with butter el'agliatura there is also that hair which has more of softness in the wine. It goes down a glass after another, despite the sugar shove, this satèn. The nose has a lot of nutty, a little 'toasted evenly. It returns to the aroma on the palate. And there is a crust of bread. And nice Fruttino berries. It is interesting length. It is creamy and pulp. It is not vintage, but it's still the vintage 2002, disgorged at the end January 2006. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

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Those flavors that come up from the past

Angelo Peretti
This was read in these days in Palermo were convicted of extortion, aggravated the three defendants who were accused of having asked for protection money to the historic San focacceria Francis, in the heart of the city. He had reported the owner.
the focaccia I've been there recently. We parked a car in front of the police. It was packed with people. Especially young people. I've eaten the loaves ca 'meusa, the sandwich with the spleen. For more married, that is enriched with cheese - I think it's cheese: Tavern on the say so of Italy - cut into strips, which melts when heated offal. How was it? Amazingly tasty. A touch of the past. Unique. If I go back out there, it is certain that I do another free ride.
In Florence I could not resist the charm of Horace Nencioni stand next to the Loggia of the Pig kiosks overflowing with clothing and leather. I just had lunch. But when I ran into the truck that served the sandwiches with the lamprey, well, 'how could I pass by? And what is the lamprey is obvious: tripe. A Case of Culinary resistance, "says Tavern, about the Florentine tripe. The boil and keep warm, to slice it in front of you. Then splàf, heated in the sandwich plate. Pesantuccia, but indispensable.
Li call now, street food, these rolls genuinely popular. Street food. Belong to the tradition. To save. To savor. In the face of continued restrictions sanitation. Sometimes, frankly incomprehensible.
will say: but how, you, Verona, love the sandwich when the mayor of Verona, in fact, forbids the consumption in the streets? Meanwhile, Tosi has prohibited camping on the monuments, and at La Scala voters will decide whether it is good or not. But I would say that he did well, considering the sandwiches that are sold in the center: with all the raw materials that are valuable in the province, what is the point that tourists s'ingozzino of plasticume?
And anyway, is not that I want sandwiches think along these lines. Rather than tradition. Of traditional food. And I say hurray, even, to festivals, if you eat with sacred chrism. Without becoming subject to the pre-cooked, mixed in, the envelope industry. A Pizzighettone in Cremonese, I happened by chance, a few days ago, the party of the oc fasulìn de cun the cùdeghe, and the title a bit 'm'inquietava. But the tasty soup (served in earthenware bowls) of the eye beans, almost impossible to find, and pork rinds (many) cooked long. You can have quality even in the streets, if you really respect for tradition. If you have a heart. Mica enslavement, distorting, plagiarism make money easy and maybe tax free.
Behold the culinary tradition. This is what is relevant. And not only for matters of the street or square. Not only that, of course, when there are half of offal (I eat willingly, it is understood). I see, more generally. a return - finally - to traditional cuisine. Italica. This is the restaurant that works today. The rest live on the air time of crisis. Provided it is not just fashion, fleeting.
In fact, I think the world of food (the good quality, I mean, there's too many people amman crap) it can be split in two. Taverns (inns) and restaurants altogether.
The first, the restaurants for me are the ones that they ought to do, in fact, tradition. With products of the territory, with typical features of the site, with ancient wisdom. But beware: It must have good product, which otherwise is the farce, and in the name of traditional atrocities brought to the table. Before the value of the raw material, in any case. And, together, to respect the dietary history. Maybe lighten it, of course: mica need now to give too much substance to the stomach feel full. And so less sauce, less greasy, and maybe, if possible, cook more moderate and short, which do not lead to the pulping dish. But this is, again, the mission of the restaurant of preserving the tradition. It can also be nineteenth-century bourgeois cuisine: veal with tuna sauce, for example. But do not cut with the rocket, please.
the restaurant has a further role. That is to apply wit to quality raw materials, which are the place (I prefer) or not. And there must be Service adeguatissimo. Because this is not just experience throat, but instead must be all-round feast for the senses. It's the place where you go to eat, but to make the evening. So just pot, right glass, right tablecloth, perfect location, right ambience, right time, right temperatures. In short, attention to detail, the nuance. And that takes effort and commitment, of course. It means maybe not low in price. But justified, or at least justifiable. Who cares if the kitchen is the creative force applied to the reinterpretation of tradition or the creativity in the round. You pay the total genius. Here he won his head, thinking.
In common, the restaurant of my heart and my head restaurant, have one thing: the search for the product. They have the chef or owner, who goes to market early in the morning to try to make that kitchen. What is not content to order over the phone and wait for the van. And indeed they also share another, equally important factor: the sense of hospitality, acceptance, respect for the client, lest the people you does do so vex the market, in the hall, among the pots?
is in the middle of everything. The places where you feed in some way. With all the same raw materials, taken from those usual three or four suppliers that take you around the house and more. And here you slam on the table to eat the stuff and just consider you a number: "Coffee at 16," you hear screaming, and you're not a person, but you're low, in fact, a number, what is written on table, on those narrow, greasy placeholder. And then maybe, at the time of the account, pay your equally thirty, forty euro, but are not very small price.

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Ah, the joy that can make a Muscat with ham ! Those two hundred thousand bubbles

Angelo Peretti
I admit to not knowing almost nothing of the Moscato d'Asti. Moscato Piedmont in general, there is also the doc, of course, Piedmont's Moscato. I've never been in the area, to see the vineyards and cellars, places to walk. Only a few passages of escape. By car. Nothing.
confess something else: I like, and many more. And I think that a wine reference. What other producers Italic Bianchisti should try, try, test, evaluate, study it carefully. Mica to make wines equal, no. But to understand the limits. To understand, I mean, where is the border, which seems tenuous (and perhaps labile in effect), between elegance and vulgarity, harmony and grinding. Today is where you play the game. And the Moscow did not admit errors: sweet, aromatic, effervescent, with little body, or printing on fine wine, or there is nothing to do, and you stucchevolezza.
Behold here is the limit, this is where the real challenge. In the old days (at sunset, I hope, in those days) the concentration of muscle power, the structure is taken to excess, wood prevaricating, tannin distressing, there Astigiano who teaches that you can act instead on lightness on the light on nuance. What becomes fascination. What intrigues. What captivates, even.
Besides, plant them, thank goodness, to regard a dessert wine, Moscato. There is, of course, with apple pies and pear, with the creams. But it is wine. And I like to think of it with cream cheese, maybe, or with cold meats, primarily with the ham, the sweet, young man. Try it, Moscato and ham: combination of fairy tales, that approach seems, yes, bold & rebellious, and instead is dreaming union with the gentle touch of pork fat that s'associa to look like soft, fruity wine, with the salting that fone with the slight spiciness liquid with tiny stinging vivacity that cleans the palate and prepares to bite again and again to sip, and the mouth is a wave of saliva. The mouth watering, still used to say.
who say raving? I think I thought so even some of those who came to deustazione Moscato d'Asti that I held some time ago at the Tavern Kus, San Zeno di Montagna, the lair of my wine tastings. Instead, all surprised. Perfect with ham, yes, of the Veneto. But even with duck prosciutto - craft - that led Bruno Mario Guerra (I Rasoli is his farm, on the Baldo), and with his fence and smoked bacon. Bewitching with growth. Even with the Gorgonzola. And we have seen, therefore, which is wine for wine indeed. Wine to drink, I mean, even at the table. Ohibò.
And now here's someone that I present below of flies that we key: carry the best, and eight are placed on the sixteen in the glass. With a warning, namely that, alas, we have found several oxidation. Because, I think, bad storage in the warehouses of distributors and resellers (which gives them the best we have taken many). And for that I am finished out of the game, for example, bowls of Caudrina Romano Dogliotti, which in the past I remember a dream, and instead this time ... Too bad. And also at the bottom of this Moscato d'anomalous: it requires care to keep it in keep it. You do not forgive anything, and a change in temperature's can be fatal. But may not know who sells these things? Can not love each other, a jewel of the genre, and this is very bad, you disfigure?
Oh, I get to mind another warning: you will see three labels Paolo Saracco. Do not be surprised: it is a genius when it comes to Moscato. At least I think so.
's wines, with double points: Faccini and cents.

Piedmont Fall 2006 Paolo Saracco Moscato d' The general comments of the participants in the tasting? What looks like a Loire white, floral and fruity white fruit and herbal sage ed'ortica, even grass lemongrass. Like a beautiful French Sauvignon, but with the effervescence in addition, a small body but fascinating. A cameo. Seductive, intriguing, sensual. Joyful. The drink, the ribevi, you will not ever get tired. Very elegant. I think this one of the great whites of Italy, and there seems a chance.
91/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Paolo Saracco Moscato d'Asti 2007 The new vintage. Someone who preferred him to 2006 (you read below) for the green vein refreshing, thirst-quenching. Young, not yet fully expressed. Yet there is advancing, with his classic style, its voltage. Grintosissima.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

2006 Paolo Saracco Moscato d'Asti Oplà, another beautiful bottle! Beautiful nose, fruity, floral, spicy. Light walnut tone. And beautiful mouth, firm. The fruit is well expressed. Relaxation, harmony. Pleasant, not at all cloying.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Moscato d'Asti 2006 Cascina Fonda nose at first a little 'back to enjoy. Then gradually opens up floral and white peach and pear Kaiser. Variety. Delicate mouth, I would say bell'eleganza. Sweetness is not invasive. And there's also a nice length. Nice lot.
84/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Moscato d'Asti La Spinetta 2006 Hawthorn fine fragrances, floral. White flowers. Pera kaiser a bit 'sour. Bocca pleasant, even tones on white flower with a light background of hazelnut and almond. Quite sweet, though.
83/100 - two happy Faccini :-) :-)

2006 GD Vajra Moscato d'Asti wine How strange! The nose is almost mineral. Very personal. Difficult to afford. Did not you expect those known varietal. Is there any hint of dried lavender, resinous veins, cuddling cypress. Lightly spicy, balsamic memories. The mouth is tense, nervous, quick. Quite long. I repeat: weird, strange wine.
80/100 - a happy little face and almost two :-) :-)

Asti 2006 Cascina Fonda We also uncorked some Asti. Sparkling wine, I mean. This is what is liked most in the evening. Nice nose, floral, fine, clean. Mouth in the same plane. Freshness, vigor. Hint of hazelnut.
80/100 - a happy little face :-)

2006 Moscato d'Asti Ca 'Bianca Technically it's done much good. A pile of personality, a bit 'of momentum, and fascinate. Vein has a light clean aroma and flower varieties. White peach almost bitter. Mouth not very sugary. Subtle spice, nutmeg.
78/100 - a happy little face :-)

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mountain

Angelo Peretti
Oh, yes, yes: do not play only aromatic white and red and brawny slaves snappy, from parts of the Tyrol. They also make the bubbles. On the high mountain vineyards over two thousand feet of altitude, otherwise nothing sparkling. A few bottles: two hundred thousand a year, barely, at best. And I will tell you more about this: I'm good. Of course, not all have the same kindness, and it is natural that there's scale of values, otherwise it would be worrying standardization. But there is someone who deserves great, but none is unworthy of the first and second cup maybe. And almost all have affordable prices.
Fors'è precisely for that matter the heights that I've liked: I understand that well, at altitude and the grapes can ripen longer, than the other areas sparkling wine, but without losing freshness. In short it collects green mica. As for variety, are the usual: chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc.
I had the opportunity of admiring them, the bubbles in the mountains, off-site (them) in Verona, where the combination of the six sparkling wines (six in all) occurred in South Tyrol, "because - said Josef Reiterer, Read Arunda Vivaldi , which is the traditional method at 1200 meters altitude, opperbacco, and look crazy professor from Back to the Future - we want to promote our wines, but also to the ambassadors of our area. " And of the six fans that bubbles were present in five, the sixth, Von Braunbach, it does not even have enough for themselves, let alone carry them around. And then there were, in addition to Reiterer - that alone is roughly fifty percent of the total bottle champagne style - even Haderburg Lorenz Martini, the Cantina Produttori San Paolo, which has acquired the Kössler and Kettmeir.
Now, here's producers and wines, the ones I have tasted. And if you plan to take a trip in South Tyrol, well, 'maybe prendetevene note.

Alto Adige Extra Brut Arunda Vivaldi has nice elegant nose of white flower and fruit. And it's nice to dry mouth. Yet even creamy. And dense. And has short structure. It notes the length of Fruttino. And thin vein, below, dry hay. Great nice hand, think: intriguing wine. Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Alto Adige Cuvée Marie Arunda Vivaldi Wine Josef Reiterer has dedicated to his wife Marianna. And it is a beautiful tribute. Note that this car very elegant and aristocratic, I guess. Which classically goes off with the crust of bread and then turns on the small fruit, tropical for fine grain. It melts in your mouth and streamlined tension, depth and nervous temper. And no fruit, while, in the long finish. And it is to drink and Ribera. Wood Chardonnay, Pinot Noir steel. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Tyrol Brut Haderburg Born in '77 to Salorno Few of the company headed by Alois Ochsenreiter hath been devoted in recent years the absolute belief of biodynamics. It is a cert'impegno bubbles. Like this brut is very powerful and very fruity, dense and even balsamic-final officinale. He has good persistence. In short the riberrei, this here, just happy. Chardonnay, 85%, the rest of pinot noir. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Alto Adige Pas Dosé 2002 Haderburg Well, when I said that wine has Haderburg commitment, I was referring mainly to this one, the vintage. Certain that it's not easy to approach, but almost demands commitment, and you have to wait a while 'that opens, and then here to enjoy the fruits of the ancient forest, the medlar perhaps overripe. It's nutty. And it's tense, sharp as a blade. It has so much personality to put on challenging courses. Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)

Alto Adige Comitissa Brut Reserve 2002 Lorenz Martini Another nice wine. Another first choice, if I may say so. Half chardonnay and half pinot noir, forty months on the lees. Secco. On a florality summer, mountain, exactly. Bocca even balsamic, resinous. Carbon minute. Creaminess. And the fruit of the long white becomes significant. Very good. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Alto Adige praeclarus Noblesse Riserva 2000 Kössler If I have misunderstood the Winery St. Paul has acquired two years ago the winery Kössler (1878 birth), while leaving intact the sparkling wine brand experience, maybe that will be redirected. We now know that bubbles easy to drink, playing on the soft, And this is in fact quite soft and floral.
A happy little face and almost two :-)

Alto Adige Brut Kettmeir hills Caldaro. From there are the pinot blanc (half of the blend) and chardonnay and pinot noir, all steel. It has yellow fruit in great evidence. And almost rusticheggia. And in the mouth - has texture - there emerges some green streak, which invites you to uncork more bottles even after further aging. Epper is a good appetizer.
A happy little face and almost two :-)