My Rabbit Died During Spay

The clos lakeside

Angelo Peretti
we were in France, the call Close. A small piece of land - a vineyard - all enclosed by ancient city walls. Instead we are near the Garda. In Portes, municipality of San Felice del Benaco. Riva Lombardy, Brescia, of the West. Just behind the last houses of the village.
to evoke the fenced fund is the name of the company: the closures. And to handle the aziendina - four acres of vineyard in all - is Alexander Luzzago. Along with Paula, his wife. He took to making wine in '90. Before working in publishing at the graph, the legendary (at least for me) micro publisher of that which was enlightened visionary Roberto Montagnoli, the only one who would (perhaps) could really create a common culture of the whole lake, and instead that the death has snatched too soon. But these are my blues. What with the land
sciuri Luzzago the feeling he had in any case you read that moved to take a degree in agriculture. And with the house and the land we had Portese however familiar, because we spent the summers: it was since the war that his had a habit of leaving the city life in favor of the coast, at least in the days of heat.
The place is cute. A sentinel to the ancient entrance gate there are two monumental mulberry (already existing, natural monuments). On the side overlooking the street, a small church dedicated to Saint Anne, if I understand it opens to the faithful once a year, still used as Seize rural speakers. The doorway, a small courtyard which gives a classic rural building Lumbard, with double gallery. Fascinating. There
ago Luzzago on that his plot (and a little more closely), a few bottles of four different wines: a Claret, a Groppello, and two blends, which are the Campei (barbera, sangiovese and marzemino) and the Malborghetto (Rebus, in a bit of merlot and barbera). Well it is that I want to talk, the Malborghetto. What I found interesting the last two years out, 2003 and 2004. So I went for a ride to Portese. And Alexander Luzzago me the courtesy to get used to the cellar and bring up even the last seven years, and then also got me a test tank of 2005 (already in steel, assembled, after the passage of wood, the wine one year ago barriue, but what I like is that the oak did not feel it, and nemanco roasting) and a taste from the barrel of 2006. And it is certainly quite common to make a vertical of nine vintages of a wine coastal, lake, Garda area. And equally rare is that it can buy, for a wine of the coast, several years, and instead are selling here, together, the 2000, 2001, 2003 and 2004 (The 2002 is not made: first and hail too much rain), and offer them at different prices: 20 Euros in the first, 16 second, 17 third and 14 fourth, taking into account the age and the outcome of the vintage, and refining. Unbelievable: it looks to star in France, where such things are the practice. In short I'll really talk about Clos closure, the Franciosa.
add that, in fact, I tried almost the entire history of Malborghetto (by the way is a Benaco Bresciano IGT), from '97 to 2006. Excluding the '94 and '96, which no longer exists even a ball. While I am not produced nor the 2002 or '95, that was terrible weather on the shore of Lake Garda Brescia.
A hint to the grapes. The actual size of Malborghetto projects a slight predominance of merlot, and then the Rebus, and finally just a hint of barbera. Barbera Lake Garda in the west has been cultivated for the time is a mandatory part Garda Classico Rosso (together with groppello, Marzemino and sangiovese). The merlot you know it. The Rebus is having increasing success in Valtenesi area. And it is, this Rebus, a blend of merlot and marzemino designed in '48 by Rebo Rigotti Stazione Sperimentale di San Michele Adige: Trentino, native country, do not seem to give much credit to this half-breed, and instead the vigneron del Benaco Lombard grant him a lot of confidence, and the results seem to give their reason. We'll see what the future holds.
Now, at last cards of the wines. With two judgments: and Faccini cents.
Malborghetto 1997 Color exhaust, a little 'orange. The nose reveals traces of oxidation, but still resists fruit. And it has tar. The mouth opens well: sophisticated, yes, but still has freshness. I would say iodized, even, salty (and will be a presence in other years). Piccolino, the fruit. Is declining, but drinking more.
78/100 - almost two and a face :-)
Malborghetto 1998 bright red livery. Nose initially confusing, almost garlic. Then she cleans, but the fruit difficult to express. And even in the presence fruity mouth feel, but most compressed, convoluted. And there's a sour mood that seems broken. Too bad. The year less convincing among those tested.
74/100 - nothing Faccini
Malborghetto 1999 Solitaire. In the sense which is result in the end, very different on the other. With that strong green note, among the herbaceous and the memory of pepper. Lean, fresh, tasty. He has good tannin, giovanilissimo. And juicy red fruit. Still, the mood had already found that iodine in '97. If he had a hair long, in most ...
84/100 - two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2000 color beautiful, bright ruby. Charmingly fruity nose (overripe cherry, jam), aristocratically grafted veins from eucalyptus, pepper. It has fine memories tarred. The mouth is just as fascinating. Thick, fleshy. Almost chewy, fruit. And well-defined tannins. Great fine wine.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2001 What strange nose ... Even those feelings iodine, but I would say more marked. Even the tar tar. But the fruit seems to me compressed. The mouth shows off character. Meaty, savory. Warm. Hints of licorice. Behold, the tannin dries a bit ', which is a shame, because the progression of the fruit it is stopped.
82/100 - two Faccini :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2003 The bottle tasted in the company was wrong, did not convince me. A little 'crush. But at home I had another and I have open, and thank goodness I found myself a nice 2003 that I remembered: fruit, fruit, fruit. Dense, fleshy, enveloping. And there is momentum progression. And beautiful pepatura. And length of all respect.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2004 the long run, this 2004 will end up beating the fascinating 2000, I bet. I like it. It has fruit and herbaceous note (officinale) together. And pretty mouth: there are tension, character. And here's the juicy red fruit and dense. And good tannin, integrated. Concedes nothing to the matchmaking: it is all rustic and elegant. Good.
87/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Malborghetto 2005 should bottle these days and will be on sale until the spring of 2005. I've tasted a test of the tub, not even the final wine. Epper already feel that we have. Maybe not as beautiful as the two previous years, but in principle, yes, in terms of character and elegance.
speculate 83-86/100 - too early for Faccini
Malborghetto 2006 Just a taste from the barrel. But already feel beautiful fruit, crisp, mature. And is the result of interest in both the olfactory test in the taste. In short, if the good days you can see it in the morning, this 2006 is promising indeed. Maybe a year is a bit 'small, but there is elegance, yes.
84-87/100 speculate, but it is a gamble - no Faccini, of course, that this or just a hint of wine.

How To Know Smps Is Working

Persuaders three

Angelo Peretti
If you remember them you are not sure of adolescents. I remember them, ergo adolescence, at least by birth, has gone from a little bit. I refer to Roger Moore and Tony Curtis when they did 'The Persuaders'. Here in Italy, was "The Persuaders." On television. There was an abbreviation of those memorable, composed by John Barry (and made a nice version a few years ago Cherry Cat Against the Big Chill, weird name for an Italian band who makes music and lying dazed: not easy to find the disk but if you happen ...).
All this being said, admit it, Only in some way to justify the title that I put on the piece: "Beware of those three." Because I want to talk about a trio of Lugana that certainly are not among the best known. But who have pulled out of its beautiful white, with the harvest of 2006. And Okay, okay, these three instead of two, but still deserve attention, and van followed. Provided (and hoping) that then there is continuity. And this is a big issue for the area of \u200b\u200bLugana I know from experience that every year comes out better than expected, but not so easy to confirm harvest after harvest. That maybe the company is tiny and there is therefore perhaps half to grand'investimenti technology in the cellar (and knowledge, and advice). But in the land of Lugana you can not compromise, that this car white important, but difficult. It is difficult to interpret, the thresh of the clay. And to maintain tension, and heart, and taste, and length, and clean fruit and mineral vein. Without stating the sdolcinatura fashionable, or worse yet, in actual it is lacking. And this is the other problem of Lugana: I understand that they're soft, sweets, and I understand them so that they sell easily, but I said before, and I repeat, that is so little, Lugana, that would be better to nourish best ambition, and therefore make great white, off by fashion and trend of the moment, who runs (mind you: flee!).
So, I report the news with the benefit of future inventory. Fingers crossed for them. And signals, I might add, with satisfaction, which is good to see as the territory moves, and put new names alongside the historic signatures.
Who are the new names? Here they are: House Magdalene, Citaro, Feliciana. Mica want to tell me which are the usual suspects guidaiole rating, right?
House Of Magdalena something I wrote, reviewing the very Lugana 2006, a few weeks ago. I said that is a tiny peak: around quattr'ettari or so. "But those few vines - I wrote - Metton roots in one of the finest cru Lugana, believe me. " I am convinced for some time: in the past I've tasted Lugana value with their label. But not all the vintages have been the same level. Just to give the coordinates for those who want to go, know that I am stuck in Ca 'dei Frati. The town is Sirmione. The name of the farm seems to be the fact that Mary Magdalene was the owner of the fund when it bought the grandfather of the vigneron, and also the grandfather had married a woman named Mary Magdalene. Now run the smallholding Luciano Zordan and his wife Raffaella Molinari. And they say they are proud of farming still used as a time, with the hoe. They do a Lugana, a red and a rosé.
Citara tasted a beautiful San Martino della Battaglia, a base of white grapes Tocai. M'è stuck in my mind. Then I no longer drink their stuff a long time. Never seen in person, never been in the company. It seems to me to be almost in the shadow of the tower of San Martino Risorgimento, the town of Desenzano del Garda. In all, ten acres of vineyard, with various cultivars. Lugana make little: just a thousand bottles, well if I read the notes he gave me. From a vineyard that I think is so little and young, although, as I am told, that has an average of about five strains. Only steel in the basement for the White Lugana. According to deplinat, as well as Lugana and San Martino are a Chardonnay, a Garda Classico Rosso and a spumante.
Feliciana is a farm, in Pozzolengo. Never been there either. SIAA And I think the first time I taste their wines. On business cards that have made me from a farm guesthouse is written that they 'dishes and flavors of the Garda. " So it is not like, but I'll go: of course if at the table offering their Lugana 2006, can put together what they want, because only wine worth the trip. Or rather, to make it even two Lugana. The first is the base made of steel. The other is a selection, for which even make late harvest and drying, and then put it in barrels for six months and yet I say it is dry most of the other. The wine making is just lugana: Lugana eight thousand bottles of the base, three thousand of the other. Below
boards wines. Lugana four to three companies, then. With the assessment and cents into smilies. 2006 Cascina

Lugana Lugana Maddalena
this or that personality, and maybe he needs some time to manifest itself fully. And indeed I found it again a little bit hard on the nose, which is in fact back to show the fruit, and it takes patience to wait in the glass. In the mouth instead have now played all right on the fruit and the minerality and freshness. He has power and structure and character. Secco. And rusticheggia.
86/100 - three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Lugana The Shells 2006 Citaro
nose opens with reluctance. And then, however, outlines beautiful scents of white flowers. The mouth opens but immediately, immediately, on floral and white fruit, luscious and ripe. And it is wine that has fresh saline: lovely acidity, as the saying goes those who use certain techniques. It has good length on the fruit. In short, lies on the fruit in a final interesting. Not bad overall as evidence.
85/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Lugana 2006 Feliciana
Ha, this Lugana, green nose, with tones that I like chlorophyll found in Lugana, for I know that eventually becomes the veins intersect with thinner degl'idrocarburi. It has hints of pear, too. And then the mouth is on the same tones, and even that I should be: fresh, salted, slender. There are no maturissimo white fruit. It has length. Sorry a bit 'Dolcina only one known on the bottom, my anger Lugana.
78/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

Lugana Serco 2006 Feliciana
opened the smell after initial hesitation, green veins appear here already and even minerals. In the mouth there is considerable tension and fatness and richness of fruit and power. Sure, vanigliatura appears, that the wine made in step wood. But the oak does not s'avverte. It is perfectly possible to compensate, the notes of vanilla, with fleshy fruit. That the structure is remarkable and so the character. And the length as well.
80/100 - two happy :-) :-) Faccini

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Phenomenology of risotto with tench and

Angelo Peretti
This time I start hard. Phenomenology is called 'the study and classification of phenomena, especially as grades or the contents of consciousness philosophy "is defined by the Devoto-Oli.
I understand that writing these things in the days of August can (legitimately) to suggest a sudden my sunburn, but it is because I want to say two things about an issue that is almost philosophical - the philosophy can be applied to cooking, food - and that draws upon what Stephen Bonilli (Gambero Rosso) has published on his blog in late July, the Yellow Duck . The post headline "Spaghetti with clams, but good '( if you like, you can read for Whole here), and praising just a plate of" simple "spaghetti with clams eaten by Uliassi (large) in Senigallia, he argued "Sometimes the simple things are the most difficult and not always successful chefs are happy if you order a plate of spaghetti with clams when the menu is full of very different proposals. But a big plate of spaghetti with clams eat it only if there is a good cook in the kitchen. "
thing, I'll concede, has some of that philosophy. But frankly this is what, above all, I expect from a major restaurant. What do the simple things divinely. Who has, say, the clams that taste of clams. But that is also the pot in its entirety, a perfect cooking, consistency gratifying, rewarding a fragrance, a complete digest. It is not easy. Because it is difficult to synthesize. It is art, creativity and above all thought.
the matter I have had occasion to speak with Leandro Luppi, chef and owner of Trattoria Vecchia Malcesine, the only Michelin-starred restaurant on the edge of my Veneto Lake Garda ( on her official website by clicking here ). The occasion, a ride to lunch to try a dish called "new" of which we discussed a lot on the phone: a risotto with tench.
Now, risotto with tench is a classic of traditional cuisine of Lake Garda. Lazise A few restaurants have made a sort of calling card. And when, a few years ago, I put up with a small team of caterers, the "League of Lake Garda risotto with tench" the number of visitors was enough to force us to look for a home large enough to satisfy at least part of the required . In short: a must. Rooted in tradition. Born, in my view, in a given era history. When Garda near Verona is cultivated, of course, laughter. It happened between the second half of the sixteenth and early seventeenth century. A Garda there is still a place called Risare. Ancient texts tell of the rice fields of the village. Near the town hall Cavaion you see piles of old rice. In 1686 there was a process: the community Garda wanted the reclamation of paddy fields. It was said that the village was a "bad air quality, which remains infected by the stench which cause some Risare. Case won, rice fields cleared. It remains to trace the recipe: the union between rice and stewed tench. Leandro
When he phoned me to tell me then that he wanted to put in a paper first Garda-style, maybe something reinterpretation of tradition, the idea was that the instant risotto with tench. But to give a reading must first understand the phenomenology, treating the recipe like a conceptual text. Distilling the contents. Which are ultimately three: rice, of course, and then the green color of the herbs and then again, just as obviously, tench. And rice and tench unite only in the final. With herbs that make the mediation between the flavors. This is the essence of the dish.
We discussed a lot, 'I said. And then the three elements Leandro had in mind and thought. Solving them with genius. The rice. Green got Dall'Aglio macaque, grass officinale which is also on the Baldo, a delicate garlic flavor. The tench over eventually broken up and the first very lightly smoked. All this ensures consistency and saposrosità, but also lightweight.
what I think? That it succeeded. And when you try this risotto Vecchia Malcesine, thought at first that it is a dish of absolute simplicity. But as each forkful harmony does not come down, but rather becomes more engaging, well, 'then you realize that may not be so simple. And that is a bit short, 'said Bonilli how about spaghetti with clams. It seems an easy dish, granted. Then I will propose that the cook knows how to cook and knows how to think, and then you realize that there is something important in the seeming levity. And it is a revival of the taste.

Why Use Efudix And Hydrocortisone

Amarone cru Calcarole When the threshold is eight thousand

Angelo Peretti
invite me I am fortunate that, from time to time, to the vertical. What are tasting the same wine several years. And that's where you see if there is continuity, tradition, evolution, and also and above all respect the terroir, vintage interpretation. Mica
easy, however, in Italy to vertical. Few, too few wineries that have their own trove of bottles of various ages. An archive of glass. And this is one of the limits of our winegrowers, who have no history and do not think to build it. Committed to produce and sell and stop. Then you get the foreign buyers and try to tell him that the bear, and instead he wants to see if the wine estate and dignity, want to try three, four, five or more years. How do you, for that matter, with or with red Bordeaux or Riesling in Alsace ... Or I could mention many others, of cases, but almost all out dagl'italici boundaries.
Now, among the recent vertical that the fate and the exquisite hospitality bestowed on me from the tenants, there was one of the important home Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino. But not co 'wines of Lake Garda. Coll'Amarone. It is not an abstruse, that the family vineyard on the lake, but also in Valdadige, and Soavese and, indeed, in the heart of the historic Valpolicella (and history and beautiful is their villa valpolicellese). And there of Amarnath make it, for years, two: the Classic, so to speak 'core' and the cru Calcarole. Which hath been added in 2001, Villa Rizzardi, which is unique interpretation of that year, having decided the family not to release either the base or the reserve. Interpretation and was happy, because they arrived first, the three glasses of wine of Italy license plate guide Gambero Rosso & Slow Food.
Now, the wines. We rejected the Villa Rizzardi 2001. We have added ten years of the Classic. And then Calcarole of seven harvests. Mica little. And some one of these bottles I resent your home: cert'annate are memorable, really.
Here I write my opinion bowl, bowl. With double points: in cents and into smilies.

Villa Rizzardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001
young age. Nose of dense fruit and flower and spice. Fruttino mouth juicy berries and black cherry. More elegant and powerful. He still has very long life ahead. It may well be drunk now. Or wait.
90/100 and three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000
Powerful. He fragrances ripe fruit, macerated in jam. Fruttatissima and mouth warm and welcoming too, with blackberry jam to get out of the net half the cherries.
88/100 and two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
1997 decadent scents of dried flowers and fruit compote. Oxidative tracks. Interesting texture in the mouth tannins. He has green veins. And heat. A little 'rusticheggiante, I think. I would like the more elegant.
76/100 and a face :-)
1996 The nose is austere, ancient, fascinating. Withered flowers, ripe fruit, spice cake. There is no fruit in the mouth from drying and good spice. And earth, of wet clay. And giovanilissime memories green. And finesse. 93/100
three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1995 Here it comes again here the red earth. Nose, immediately. There is added storage carcadè and wild rose. Veins bestial. In the mouth freshness. And small, juicy berries. And balsamic veins.
88/100 and two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
1994 evolved nose and mouth now unreadable. Confused. Then gradually clear. The fruit and leaves and small red berries almost yet not quite ripe and still green tannins. Backwards.
85/100 and a happy little face and almost two :-)
1993 Wow! What aristocratic austerity in these fragrances between the earthy el'officinale. The mouth is fresh. It has crisp fruit. Nice tannic texture. Length. And drink rewarding and refreshing vein of iodine. Great. 94/100
three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1991 It takes a bit 'to afford. But waiting is rewarded, leaving memories in successive waves of red fruit. And largely fruit and hot and powerful is the mouth. It has veins balsamic. Still very young.
92/100 and three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1990 Austerity and olfactory charm spice and fruit by now. In the mouth, thick, luscious ripe fruit. And veins of sweetness. Read, but not at all annoying oxidative nuance. Wine decadent yet enjoyable. And memories earthy.
89/100 and two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
1988 That nose strange at first confusing, restrictive, then long salty, iodine, ocean. Fascinating. The mouth power of fruit and again iodine and tar. And tannins well expressed, the balance. Wine ancient and intriguing. 88/100
three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1977 The color is oxidative turns to brick. But the wine is still worthy of curious taste. Smells of hydrocarbons. Mineral veins. And traces of pepper. And memories of licorice. Sure, it's empty, fell. But the nose is stimulating. Nothing
trial.

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2000 Calcarole
Here it is again the note of iodine and earthiness that I had already found nell'Amarone base. Red fruit, macerated and overripe. Dense, tannic and fruity mouth exciting. Young, already influential.
92-93/100 three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1997 The nose lots and lots of red fruit, elegant, charming. And yet intense fruitiness on the palate, and those who love these perceptions here that has to satisfy. Long wine. But less impressive tannin, a bit 'dry.
85/100 and two Faccini :-) :-)
1995 still much fruit nose, ripe & jam. And dried flowers and spice. Mouth enveloping. Velvet. The fruit back, juicy and exciting. It is added balsamic veins. It traces tarred. 89/100
three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1991 He bell'integrità color. Nose back. Mouth hot, powerful. Fruit material and balsamic veins. But the tannins are a bit 'dry grain, and leaves a subtly bitter aftertaste. It is a shame.
84/100 and a face :-)
1990 Notes evolved, and then fruit: olfactory complexity. The tannin is maybe a bit 'rustic, but fruity convince, satisfy. Freshness, sweetness, even a few hints oxidative fascinatingly. And nice drink. 93/100
three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
1988 nose hard, closed. Bocca vaguely fermentation. Slowly opens and you feel that there was still so fresh fruit (and captures the Fruttino of forest, mostly). But the bottle is unhappy, alas.
rating pending.
1987 Even those hints iodine, which - as is now certain - they are earth signs. And tar and ripe fruit. Bocca austere, pleasantly velvety evolved. Hot alcohol. Composed of red fruit. Memories of pine. Length.
86/100 and two happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)