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It's Christmas, go with the beer! Once upon a time

Angelo Peretti
It's Christmas, and as we know, we are all better people: it's not true, but sometimes it's nice illusion.
It's Christmas, and the mailbox, and email box overflowing with good wishes. It usually also affects the newspapers, even those online quest'InternetGourmet as you have the patience to read (and has been read 250 thousand times: I am very happy), to wish the readers. It is, and most willingly wishes!
It's Christmas, and the magazine of food and wine we offer advice regarding recipes and wine pairings and delicious and varied, including gourmet gifts. So even on this issue I see to be aligned. So here we are with the piece Christmas in the subject. But I do not speak nor food, nor wine: beer is the star this time. Or rather, I'm the Christmas beer. Better yet, the Christmas of Belgium, which I love.
Since, however, are a bit 'of race and even a little' lazy, the central part of this intervention take it verbatim from a piece I wrote a couple of weeks ago for the Taste page of the newspaper L'Arena (good Morello Pecchioli Christmas, my boss, who takes care of the page). And then, finally, I put the tasting notes of the six keys to the Tavern bière de Noël Kus in the tasting that we have prepared a few days ago: The dinner was made with roasted pork shank, gorgonzola cheese with honey chestnut, chocolate cake. Wow!
In short: here we are. You say: 'beer', and think of the frothy drink alcohol moderately yellow-gold that serves pizza. They say instead: "Christmas Beer" and maybe do a little 'hard to understand what it is. Yet these are precisely the day of bière de Noël, masterpieces of Belgian beer. It has been in recent days, one after the other, smaller craft brewers of Belgium have released their Christmas beers.
limited production, rare, intriguing. Who have nothing, absolutely nothing to do with blondes swallow profusely from the jug.
are dark: the color ranges from amber to dark brown. Alcohol have a lot ', from 8 to 13 degrees, not jokes. Forbidden to drink it frozen: fresh, at most, around 14 degrees in temperature, but if they go to 18 no problem, as if they were important red wines. And like a good red wine are typically in bottles of 0.75, it is in the ball for three quarters to better develop their characters sensational aroma. The label, the classic themes of the period: snow, decorated trees, starry nights, angels, monks, the ubiquitous Santa Claus, squirrels, gnomes. Often even the decoration is printed directly on the ball. Among the Christmas myth Belgian beers are the St. Feuillien Noël, the Christmas Ale St. Bernardus, the Noël des Rocs the Abbey, the Chouffe N'Ice, the Binchois de Noel, the alcolicissima Bush de Noel. There are beers that they are even able to aging well: a few years ago did not hurt. You can savor a sip. They're wonderfully with the kitchen in winter. But they are also ideal for after dinner: a glass more than enough to spend an hour chatting with friends, taking a little 'relaxation by the fireplace.
The taste is very unique and enchanting. And is influenced by top secret recipes of master brewers. Meanwhile, to make the Christmas beer using carefully selected malts. And then the call is flavor: some uses cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, juniper, sometimes honey, and even fruits, orange peel, in particular. It's rumored there are sometimes cutting through spirits. Of course giving rise to a complex sensory respectable. Meanwhile, have a pleasant bitter aftertaste reminiscent of licorice, but also a vein of sweetness that recalls the chestnut honey and caramel. Then, the spicing. And the notes of dried fruit: hazelnut, walnut above. And vague memories of berry ripening. It is a soft and creamy foam. Fascinating. Now
cards of the six beers I mentioned above. I give each of the index of average found in the tasting pleasure: you were sixteen, and the vote could go from zero to ten, including the halfway point. Then there's my usual opinion Faccini, one to three. Then again the wholesale price of bottled by 0.75 (this is the right format).

Abbaye des Rocs Spéciale Noël The nose of crusty bread are heated in the oven and a light vein of anise. The mouth is wide, winding, bittersweet: malt, licorice, subtle memory of dates, roasted hazelnuts. Epper also chlorophyll, eucalyptus. And chestnuts, too. And chestnuts in brandy, mostly. And there's length. Today it seems a little 'girl and decomposed, but in my view, could give away the surprises. Make it a bit 'aged in the bottle. He has 9 degrees of alcohol.
Index pleasantness average: 7.067
A little face :-)
Wholesale Price: 5.14 €.

Spéciale Noël The Binchois Nose agricultural rum, veins of candied cherry, dried orange peel and sweet spices. And as time passes, the bouquet becomes more and more incredibly fascinating out gradually amaretto liqueur with citrus fruit, the rose oil. Then comes flowers, roses, still, above all, and then a little 'of cyclamen. Then again, overbearing, tea with lemon, bergamot. Unbelievable. And there mouth elegant, with hoppy notes, but especially fruit, fruit, fruit: berries juicy, overripe apricot, candied papaya, figs dry. Persuasive. Intriguing. 9 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average: 8.033
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Wholesale Price: 4.89 €

Cuvée de Noël St. Feuillien Nose coffee and chocolate, light licorice streak , burnt crust of bread. Light hints of graphite. The mouth is powerful, strong. Malt and licorice: a lot of both. Nice length, but does not allow anything on the side of matchmaking. The finish is all about the bitter mood. Beer male. 9 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average: 6.900
A little face :-)
Wholesale Price € 5.67

N'Ice Chouffe Another beer as to refine in the bottle, this is a classic, but it needs to be done. Today, the nose has traces of denatured alcohol, however, with veins of date, fig, fine and markets. The mouth is in tune. It has tension, density, power. I vaguely recall, in the sweet, balsamic vinegar. Unctuous, almost. A strong beer, very tonic acid side. 10 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 7.833
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)
Wholesale Price € 6.17

St. Bernardus Christmas Ale Oh, oh, oh! Would you say Santa Claus. Great beer, great beer. Nose charm, Oloroso sherry from Palo Cortado. Memoirs of antique furniture, and besides the crust of toast, nutty, bitter almond. The almond leaves in the mouth at first, but soon balanced by a vein of bittersweet caramel and chestnut honey. Impressive persistence: emerge gradually and increasingly strong seductive and rich memories of dried fruit and then peach pit. Fascinating. 10 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 8.400
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
Wholesale Price € 5.96.

Bush Noël Premium Brasserie Dubuisson Freres The Bush, the battleship of Belgian Christmas beer. Impressive nose in his notes of rum, Armagnac. And then sherry. And then the old wooden barrels for years and years. And even winey notes. Alcohol is obvious, but important are the notes of candied citrus, nuts, fruits of ancient woodland sumaturi, persimmon maturissimi pur'essi. The mouth is creamy and thick, molasses and even hugging and even vanilla. Caramel and brown sugar and wildflower honey and date to the natural and Jamaican rum. Powerful. But if they did not tell me that smell is a beer, I would say that is a sweet, noble and aged, with aristocratic veins oxidative dates from refining. 13 degrees.
Index of pleasantness average 8.033
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)
8.52 Wholesale Price

Toys For Alone Gerbil

Cabernet

Angelo Peretti
But yes, from: The title is a provocation. The Cabernet is still there, and now and then. More that once upon a time. But the infatuation, that would not be totally over, but is a bit 'on the way to sunset. I speak of Italy, of course (oh, the French is something else: it comes from someone who loves Bordeaux). There remain, for charity, very delicious, but the long wave is fading. Or at least I think.
It all started in the late eighties, to become a mania in the next decade. Following the success of Sassicaia, born here in the yard ending with wine (in the name or style) a little 'everywhere.
Then, it was boom. And so to plant cabernet and merlot from Alto Adige to Sicily and to make wine, therefore, on the Bordeaux blend, and therefore to over-ripeness and concentration, and muscle, and power, and fruttone, sweet tannins and a long stay in barrels, and vanilla from a small cask. With the blessing of Mr. Parker, the Wine Spectator. And our local critics. Epper also frequent visitors to restaurants and wine bars, those wines that asked them how.
Oh, for heaven's sake: I said the merger and so on, but there has been mica always successful. And indeed, many, many times there has been found and there is more to deal with merlot & cabernet resolved and green and raw and allappante or sickly sweet. But, I said, good and there were none. But it is not more fashion to dictate. And that is good in that, finally, because it is just good. It is enough.
was fashionable, I said. And fashions change. And I wonder if we really needed to dip into our own discipline to memorize at all costs bordoleseggianti vineyards. And cabernetizzare Italian vineyard. Cabernetizzare And indeed - as well as among whites chardonnayzizzare - half a globe terraqueous. But the wine business, you know, and if the flies Bordeaux, Bordeaux to make them all away. Ecché, other than perhaps the current catchphrase of pinot grigio in America & United Kingdom?
Now, to try to get me a picture of what was and is the phenomenon of Bordeaux I come from, Triveneto ie the area of \u200b\u200bthe Garda, a few nights ago I set up a wine tasting as we uncorked during more than twenty. Trying to select names and others less important. Putting together the Garda, Trentino, Alto Adige, the Euganean, Friuli. Several more years, with the majority but for the new millennium. Drinking a lot 'of red tribicchierati from driving the Shrimp & Slow Food. And some of the good good but we have found. Now do the most interesting account below: they are, those that are best appreciated by those present. With double voting: the usual Faccini, one to three, and the index of average pleasantness (those present at my tastings always ask to assess wine with decimal vote, using the half-point if needed, according to the parameter of personal pleasure, and thus has 10 wine, if there were, you would like to immediately ristappare another bottle, and to fall down). The order is the index of pleasant places.

San Leonardo 1997 Tenuta San Leonardo Gentlemen, hats off. It is a great red, this one. Noble. Young, despite having reached the decade. Emerge from the glass, of momentum, spice, medicinal grass, pepper, ripe fruit. Nose still young wine. And that vitality in your mouth! It has elegance, freshness and inviting, and satisfying length and appealing. A wine of great pleasure and good drink. Who can stand still so long in the bottle. Trentino. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, Franc and Merlot and then in small part, I believe.
pleasantness index: 8.962
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Quaia Frage 2000 The 2000 was, according to many, the best Quaia Matilde Poggi (but I really liked , always the smallest, and most if we want bardolino, 2003). And in fact this distance is the 2000 red that still amazes and surprises. He has so much red fruit. Mature. Maturissimo. And spice petite. And pepper. It is so sweet fruity in the mouth, but also nervous acidity, which gives back and revives. And tannins still young. I confess: I did not expect so much dust. Veneto, Lake Garda hinterland. Cabernet sauvignon predominates and then franc.
pleasantness index: 8.115
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Garda Cabernet Zalt The 2003 Cascina La Pertica Oh, oh: the second wine of my lake! And these are just nice Zalt House of perch. I remember having adored, the past year, this 2003, and did not riassaggiavo a year now, and I found enjoyable. But had to let it hath been long in the glass, that we first found reduced. But then here is his classic Fruttino, el'erbetta Alpine, and the vein acidity that refreshes, and the small body length Epper also enviable. Lake Garda, Lombardy side. Cabernet sauvignon and just a touch of merlot. Biodynamic.
Index of pleasure and Faccini 7.808
Two happy almost three :-) :-)

Breganze Two Saints Vineyard Cabernet 2005 Zonta Look, I love the 'I'm wine. I like its clean, juicy fruit and enveloping, and his frank and immediate drinkability, and yet also its length, the red value. It is young, certain, and therefore should be drinking a little 'beyond (and why someone has a little' penalized in the tasting). But if you happen crossing, try it. And then I'm happy Zonta in the house we do not mount the head and keep prices reasonable, despite the three cups Fiocchino now. Bravi. For wine and moderation.
Index of pleasantness 7.654
Three Faccini happy :-) :-) :-)

Südtiroler Cabernet Sanct Valentin 1999 Cantina San Michele Appiano He had, not only good fan whites, those in the cellar of Appian. And I bet that many would drink it gladly 'I'm red. He then nose of spice and great fruttone and vein mineral and green notes. And in the mouth, here's a refreshing memory of pink grapefruit and almost orange peel, and still Fruttino red. And there is in fact intriguing contrast between the greenery olfactory el'agrumata presence on the palate. It would be perfect if it were not for that pile of sweetness too. Alto Adige, of course.
Index of pleasantness 7.615
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)

Hills Red Hills Gemola 2001 Vignalta Now, I have no doubts that I had in front of a table and wanted to find a red that happy a bit 'all at the first sip, I choose Gemola. What a wine is exemplary for the style that I said at the opening: it has everything you need, or concentration, and fruit and sweetness, and length, and fullness, and charm. Done well. For me, there is a wine I would drink more, but I am liking. And anyway, is clear: the people appreciate a nice glass indeed. Veneto, Colli Euganei Padova province. The rest mostly Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Index of pleasantness 7.538
Two Faccini happy :-) :-)

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Balance and the crystal and wine

Angelo Peretti
Balance, balance, balance. That's what I want in a wine. Along with the fine, but they have to think of it, accordingly. And I am so glad that this is the magic word is repeated again and again at the conference sponsored by the Verona Angiolino Maule - read Gambellara to biodynamic production, ie the Biancara - with its association VinNatur. Oh, yes I am happy that I have the utmost respect for Steiner's theories on the biological and natural and what you want, but also - and allow that - For those who seriously conventional agriculture, provided, however, that the wine comes out of it, whatever the practical background, as well as those who remember with pleasure, excitement and because it has given you something important, ' only tell thee. And the story unfolds precisely when there is, on balance.
Now, however, that the balance of a wine you seek is not already - not only - in the basement, but especially in the first place by the balance of the vineyard and the earth that is the guardian and mother, perhaps, what I seem meritorious. And effective. Therefore, they are welcome and the theory of empiricism and biodynamic vigneron who s'autodefiniscono natural and authentic. Provided - of course - who are the genuine enthusiasm and commitment, and we do not stop to put the organic label for marketing to cheap, which is no longer speculative bubble, and it is worth remembering not even the boom years so remote internett, when it was enough to put an e before the name of a company - and make it just an e-something - because the title splash on the stock exchange, only to end up with a handful of flies soon . It is this: do not make the mistake, that does not work (more).
Given all this, n'ho found a lot of enthusiasm among the followers and colleagues and teachers of Angie. And maybe in some one of them a little bit of radicalism, if not sectarianism, but they are sins of youth. Nevertheless I seem to have understood that the phase of infatuation is fading to make way for a positive and healthy realism that leads to hope. And most of all I liked in this, Christian Marcel, who practices the crystallization-sensitive, and has held a report saying that is just fascinating. And the main character, this Marcel, rigorous and transparent person seemed to me and not at all intended to help them trade. So much so that he repeated that they were - his - of a research tool, and not yet of an exact science. Which shows or may show, however, things beyond the conventional analysis.
The emphasis is this: the scientific approach brings physical-chemical analysis, which explains a lot, but not all. The unexplained can be interpreted in an anthroposophic and crystallization is sensitive in this area. Which is perhaps subjective. But it offers an advantage which would be absurd to pass over in silence simply because mainstream science has not really yet fully occupied and therefore neancora issued - or wanted to deliver - their own opinion. In short: everything is explained and not explained by mainstream science, and even with anthroposophy, thank goodness, and is therefore still a long way to go, but the method is now long experienced, and therefore supports and complements - for those who want to - scientific analysis.
Now, it must be said that this methodology is sensitive crystallization born about seventy years ago on the basis of suggestions by Rudolf Steiner, biodynamic of thought is the father. The whole thing works - in a nutshell - this way: on a glass disc, the copper chloride is added to an extract of organic matter or mineral. The interaction between copper, which is the tenant, and the electromagnetic charge of the molecules in solution causes the formation, on diskette, figures in the form of crystals, geometric images capable in some way expresses the forces of matter. The problem is to give correct interpretation of those crystals. But if that fails, here is that if they draw much useful information on the health of the place or plant or wine, the risk of disease in the vineyard, the dynamics of the terroir, the correctness of the grafts, the blend of happiness, the ability of ' aging. Having said this may seem unrealistic, but evidence and findings would lead to say that it works, going to give possible explanations, plausible, whereas the conventional analysis does not reach, and thus supporting and enriching. Not m'addentrerò over the issue (those who want to learn more go to the site www.vinimage.com ).
Now, I pause for a moment instead of a sentence that said Pierre Paillard, who led the work of the conference: "What is important - he said - is the reality. If the theory is not able to explain the facts is the theory that needs to be changed, because the facts are. " After all, the way it has always towards knowledge-based observations of this kind. So on with the experiments. And with the natural and biodynamic. Cum granu salis, but I do not believe the millenarianisms and sectarian hate. And I try to take what's good for everybody. It may appear
abritrario say that chemistry is the die land and destroys the terroir - and it is indeed possible and probably true - but at the same time, however, applaud the methods that terroir revising it. Which is nothing if not a change the terroir, the method described at the conference - acclaimed in fact - that through the extension of a copper wire buried around the vineyard favors, impacting on electromagnetic fields, the flow of water excess? It is true that with this procedure on the vineyard is more healthy and more balanced and even integrates into the vegetation and fruiting. True even though - I think - that the correlation between vine and soil and climate is artificially changed, so where is the strict respect of the terroir? So I think, and I can be wrong, of course.
I hope, however, that people can be on the eve of a new humanism, as noted by Pierre Paillard. And you can have a renewed relationship with life and with nature. And everyone can do his "global change - Paillard's words - it is not possible. We must change that each individual in its own sphere. " I agree. But even claim that their change is necessarily the only, and is the only correct.
In any case, it is true are the facts that remain. And the facts tell me that in recent years I have been drinking wine is biodynamic fascinating that in the conventional technique. But also that the biodynamic quand'incontri well done, then the wine glass you scream. And what do you n'accorgi tasting, not the label. And this personality and richness and balance that we find you fans think about (and enjoy). And here we are back at equilibrium. That first wine to be found in the vineyard and in the ground. Epper even before the vine and the earth, I believe, the mind and heart.
last thing, to play down, for I perceive of having been serious. A vote at the conference: for high participation, high for content, up to the speakers, very low and insufficient to break, because you can not hear of wine for two days and find only mineral water and orange juice carton . In short, a drop of the bio-wine while I drank ... Okay, I'm done again, then home.