Saturday, September 22, 2007

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White almost there: San Martino della Battaglia

Angelo Peretti
This time I want to tell a white almost not there. In the sense that yes, there are bottles, but they are little. And, in fact you can only drink on the homeland. Because the earth is just a bit. Small. And we're with the wine grape unmentionable: Tocai Friulano implanted at the border of Lombardy-Veneto, but tocai say - you know - no, that otherwise EU lawmakers are crying, having decided that the name is just the Hungarians. And so once brought the wine label in the name Tocai di San Martino della Battaglia, and instead is now simply San Martino della Battaglia. And the name is that of a population of Desenzano del Garda. It has tiny vineyard on the sidelines of the clay also Bianchisti Bianchisti of Lugana. Low hills hinterland of Lake Garda. You
, San Martino, a land that still seems to drip the blood of the battle - the famous - the Risorgimento. And I wonder if you still write with a capital letter, the Risorgimento. And if schools are even now studying those fights. There, at San Martino and Solferino s'ammazzarono thousands, struck by musket balls that broke the limbs and sharp iron which tore the flesh. It was unheard of suffering: June 24, 1859, 40 thousand were killed and wounded. It was also, that pain absurdly huge generator of solidarity, by the locals. And lit by a Swiss, Jean Henri Dunant, who in those days of death and tears came up with the idea of \u200b\u200bthe Red Cross.
Now, I do not know how it is acquired instead the idea of \u200b\u200bplanting a vineyard in San Martino Tocai. Somewhere I read that it would be proper to bring to Furlani, because we would stop bringing cows in transhumance. Who knows.
I also know that after an initial success, the tocai sammartinese has slowly fallen into oblivion, and now there was hardly anyone who vinified, especially in times of prevailing red, the nineties. Now, however, the wave of white mount again. And maybe there's a hand in the success of his cousin Lugana. In short, here is that St. Martin is back to get out of the shell. It is a white who enforces. They do it in a few, make it a little, but it deserves attention, because you drink some good drinks.
Below you something on behalf of the three I have, in fact, drinking this year. Neither have the whole production, but there are neighbors, which I think there are two or three more just, and those, alas, is to me happened to the keys.
The price? I do not have, but - quiet - are a few Euros a bottle. So I am bowling to buy with confidence.
The order of tasting is alphabetical by company.
San Martino della Battaglia Pergola 2006 Civielle Civielle Valtenesi going to wineries and Lugana. The wine has almost golden color, traversed by veins herbaceous. Nose of ripe yellow fruit. Fleshy mouth well, maybe some 'sweets, here. And hints of chamomile (which are characteristics), and even tea. And there is good length and freshness integrated. It is not my style, with that soft, but it is well done. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
San Martino della Battaglia 2006 Cobu comes slowly to the nose of white flowers, and is therefore reluctant to florality this San Martino. The mouth is rustic. As a sandpaper rasp. It has freshness and relief under the chamomile and hints of hay and then not maturissimo yellow fruit, although high density. Wine seemingly simple, actually nice length and material. To observe. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
San Martino della Battaglia Field of the Chair in 2006 in Lake Hills I'd like to try it again now with the San Martino Formentini, because when I drank, at the end of June, was far too little in the bottle, and then closed again and shaken. But know that the range of the Chair is always nice wine, satisfying (I found the very good 2004). Fresco. Tasty. He pulp. White peach and clear memory. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Friday, September 14, 2007

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Who will save the Valpolicellino? Those ten

Angelo Peretti
But look at you if you had to put the hail to save the Valpolicella vintage. Yeah, because those who took the storm in late August, at least in (good) part of the grapes he could collect the same, for had already been encouraging signs of aging, but the mica has been able to devote Amarone, it was bruised. So, I think (hope), to produce via (also) so mistreated Valpolicellino vintage, which might otherwise disappear. Yes, because now is a couple of years running insistent voice of a possible abandonment of the small radical almost Valpolicella doc, overcome the impetuous commercial success of its majesty and Prince Ripasso, Amarone, which increasingly amaroneggia. And then to devote all the red grapes to the super-valpolicellesi. Wilt, wither, is the watchword. All boxes of grapes used to make the loft. In spite of the young wine, for which you seek maybe only the grapes of younger vines, or what's left (it is) after the harvest for the Amarone, the Recioto to the Superior for the Review.
Why the abandonment of the little guy in favor of better performing relatives? Why pecunia non olet, as the Latins said. Translated and adapted into the local language: Schei Schei ago. And you can understand them (and Schei, Valpolicella, have made, in the wake Amarone seems to know no obstacle, which is really sensational.)
Rather, one might wonder whether in the medium to long term proves very appropriate decision to focus all on two types of wine purely technical (both are direct or indirect subsidiary of withering), directing for more communication on the only the note names for the technique, while putting more into the background and the name of terroir: who says more or Valpolicella Amarone della Valpolicella Ripasso? It simplifies, is shortened: Amarone, Ripasso, stop. And the Valpolicella tends to almost disappear from the language of wine making. So that in a survey commissioned by the syndicate has shown that some identify as the Amarone wine from Piedmont or of another land again.
That said, the question that someone asks me is: "But there is still a good Valpolicella vintage?" So that we can drink without rotear of glass, decanter and the like. With some hallway and a slice of polenta and a suppressed brostolà. And I say, despite everything, yes, there's some nice chilled wine. Of those francs to drink and fruity and juicy. And below gives an indication of an interesting quintet of 2006 that I tasted during the summer months. And not only are these the Valpolicellini to drink, but not everyone I could feel (for example, I have not felt the Ventura from San Floriano, usually I like it).
Valpolicella 2006 Blacks Hills Winery Montecchia Blacks Hills is the line. And the wine has no other claim than that, thank goodness, to be drinking, and well too. The nose is fruity sour cherry in the first place. Without exaggeration, but with clean material. It's under slight spice. The mouth is easy to drink and cool and slender. If only he had a hair long, in addition, a small potrebb'essere champion ... Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Valpolicella Classico 2006 Coati Court Rugolin I do bell'Amarone, elegant. But even their baby Valpolicella is one of those who leave their mark. Amarone in the opposite direction, of course, hence streamlining of the merger. But there is good between the nose and spicy fruttatino. And the mouth fresh, green, floral (memories of cyclamen). And there, below, a base of cherry and even discrete tannin. Beverley, agreeable. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 2006 Be ', yes, I had liked the most in previous vintages of the basic Valpolicella Allegrini, but even this is not bad 2006. Made with craft. Nose of fruit and spice. Fresh fruit and tannin and mouth. Intriguing notes of cyclamen with those of the cherry. Matters a lot. Here, some years we found more to drink, but still a nice glass. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Valpolicella Classico Valpolicella 2006 Buglioni Here: here's the cherry. Maybe not exactly an explosion of fruit, but is clean, clean. E mouth in this weblog valpolicellino Buglioni is simple yes, gulp with disengagement, but also well-modulated. Maybe a little 'green here, but the fruit and acidity in great evidence and a few notes well integrated tannins.
A happy little face and almost two :-)
Valpolicella Classico 2006 Camporeale Probably some people will find it a bit 'Dolcino, a little' morbidosetto, however, has Fruttino (cherry, strawberry) and Caramellina raspberry. The nose and mouth. Much to tip a soft approach, confidential, this little red Mario Lavarini. But he has quite long and, in short, a glass with a slice of it is young deleted. A happy little face
and nearly two :-)

Saturday, September 8, 2007

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Soave that make me happy Faccini

Angelo Peretti
Sometimes t'incastrano. If you write in the newspapers, which happens to call you to make the moderator at conferences, debates and panel discussions. Often you can dodge, sometimes not. And almost always you are not moderate anything, but at most to act as a timer to the speakers, which are mica always faithful to the times that are assigned. In short, you feel a kind of ornament, and that's it, that he opens his mouth only to give and take away the word to others. It happens, and it is not one that we feel gratified.
The last time happened to me in time to the moderator to Soave Versus, the annual review of the Consortium Soave dedication to the protection of the white denomination. And I must say that it was not even that hard, because whoever did it had to intervene substantially in the time set, and so the conference - too long, like all conventions, but through no fault of those who had to speak - is almost finished scheduled time: just six minutes of slippage are a kind of record, especially considering that you started with the usual quarter of an hour late.
Now, it was a shame not being able to deepen the last speech, that of Stefano Raimondi, head of the line 'Drink wine and spirits "of ICE, the Institute for Foreign Trade. Because of number of slides he had prepared on the PC has not presented that a limited number, and inside you read data that was probably the case for more details. Sales data and commercial positioning of white wines from Veneto in the global market.
I'll try to summarize briefly some of the trends shown, and are grateful to Raymond of left me a printout of his slides.
First: the gap between exports and Italian reds and whites is narrowing. But at the same time to wines for years are substantially the same volume of sales abroad, as they grow, and quite a bit, table wines. In short: you export wine is cheap. And this observation is even more for whites in the Veneto region, which is the first exporting region: average prices are € 1.92 share, compared with a value of 2.55 euro for the Italian average. And if you want to get hurt with any other comments, well, 'a little bit worried to see that almost 80 per cent of exports Veneto wine is concentrated in four countries: Germany (with 41 per cent), the kingdom Kingdom (19 and passes), the United States (with 8 percent, which is as good, poor wretch, but when you consider the size of the market in stars & stripes) and Canada (and there are at 7 and more). Come fifth Japan, which is almost 6 per cent. People will say: Yes, but markets are Florida, and Germany is well-placed business partner. Sure, but the Germans pay very little our wine sales were concentrated there and does not give great added value. Better would be to convince the Americans, but what we already think of the Tuscans, who have in North America their prevailing market outlet, which far exceed the revenue for sales that make the whole of Europe. And you can meditate.
And the source is authoritative. The Ice s'occcupa promotion of Made in Italy on international markets. And has, in the wine industry, long tradition. Raimondi's office supports the presence of companies on international markets, fairs, workshops, communication, actions at the point of sale, training for foreign operators. Besides monitoring the markets, through the analysis of flows statistics (volume, value, type, source, destination etc.). Mica very little.
That said, I know that someone who reads between the quest'InternetGourmet has already come the headaches, so maybe the best wine. In some sense describe the wine of Soave. And as though I have not had the opportunity to taste all the time & Soave Versus (and indeed I am limited to keyboards here and there to try new things or to have some confirmation), I like last year and I take notes Tasting soavisti last couple of months, and I use those, taking into account other companies to Versus were not there. In mixture, then. And they are a dozen Soave (so far) I am so pleased. To the extent that it is ten in check, office, my three Faccini revelers.
Soave Classico Monte Fiorentine Ca 2006 Rugate Et voila, another year and another great Florentine in bloom. A white man who has a trademark, with her beautiful yellow fruit clean, crisp, juicy. That satisfying drink. That slenderness. And those subtle hints of minerality. And that hint of walnut on the bottom. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Cantina del Castello 2006 Presson Presson The m'è liked it a lot in past years, 2006 and this confirmed me, if proof were needed, the beauty of this cru soavista. Nose was extremely citrina footprint. It is also the citrus mouth. And fresh. And veins of pineapple fruit and nettle and white. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Ca 'Visco 2006 Coffele Be', what about the Ca Visco that I have not said before? It is a great wine. With all that yellow fruit on the nose. And that fruitful dense flesh that invades the palate. And that roughness of sandpaper rasp that gives you the language. And those plants that cool veins. And so long. And elegant. Three happy
Faccini :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Superiore Contrada Salvarenza Vecchie Vigne 2005 Gini There is a flowery meadow that opens in the glass when the smell Salvarenza 2006. It gives you flowers on the palate. And there's more in freshness and minerality in beautiful relief, and motioned grass officinale. The finish is dry, almost tannic, which I like to find in a Soave important. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Superiore Monte Sella, 2005 Mandola not remember if I've ever written before a wine Mandola. Yet remember that their Monte Sella desire I had already liked the 2004 and I have a lot more enjoyed in the 2005 version, with all that's ripe yellow fruit and ripe citrus and the spice that vein intriguing. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Monte Tondo Soave Classico 2006 Montetondo fruits and flowers. Yellow. There are so many of both the nose and mouth, at the Monte Tondo in 2006. And it has much flesh, so much. Epper also nice freshness that makes it juicy, salty and satisfying to drink. A great wine that I liked drinking it a few times already here in July. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Calvarino Soave Classico 2005 Soave Pieropan A Versus the Pieropan Nino does not expose. E Okay, but the Calvarino, drunk in July, is also memorable in the 2005 edition. With his power that is character and that power and the fatness of the fruit and nettle that vein and that memory of those nuances of tropical fruit and dried fruit. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
2005 Pra Soave Classico Staforte Last year, when I went down to the head of Staforte, the new Graziano Pra Soave, there were those who said I a prognosis, and indeed even wrote. Okay, now say what you want, but I like the 2005, and so much. With that beautiful fruit and juicy. And that tension to drink. And the flowers macerated. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Monte Carbonare 2006 Suavia Now, the club of great Soave, Tessari sisters if they are earning a place for some time, and coal is a confirmation of '06. There is floral nose (and which is added to the dried flower of grass) and the mouth between the citrus and salt. And softness that pampers you and also with power drink. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Soave Classico Le Bine of Costiola 2006 Tamellini M'era strapiaciuto 2004. In July, I loved the 2005. Now that Gary made me Tamellini trialling in 2006 (only two months in the bottle), I can say that is one of the most intriguing white that it took me to drink in recent years (and I've drunk, whites). Large and complex. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)

Sunday, September 2, 2007

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And the free tenants in South Tyrol were converted to the screw cap

Angelo Peretti
I already said and written that I'm with screw cap. In the sense that if the wine is aged for very long, I find the modern screwcap closure practical and intelligent and devoid of substantial risks. What then, if you do not finish the bottle at lunch, and tightened the hold (fairly) well-preserved until dinner time. It is not bad option, allow. Even better would be for the wine bar, ch'evita to let his mouth open and slows down the oxidation. Oh well, not easy for the manufacturer and the retailer and consumers switch to this "new" closure, which certainly mett'in aside a bit 'of the ritual poetry of wine. The
however, is that the screwcap abroad at their request, especially where there is no long tradition of wine. It also used abroad, producers wine making. Now all of New Zealand Sauvignon in screw cap. We are beginning to see in Burgundy, also on a cert'importanza wines. And there is in Germany for Riesling in Austria or for Grüner Veltliner. And maybe it will be for the affinity to the Austro-Germanic world, but the Freie Weinbauern Südtirol - the association of the free tenants of South Tyrol led by Josephus Mayr - you are also converted to the screw cap. Well! Someone wanted to give the tone.
is the news that most struck me about visiting, in Bolzano, the annual meeting of Vinea Tirolensis, the classic tasting afternoon-evening (Monday, 15 to 21: mica have time to lose, 'sti vigneron suddtirolesi) of Freie Weinbauern.
Please, not everyone made the turn. And the cork is still the choice of absolute prevalence. But the screwcap has begun to see some big names on the bottles of wine from Alto Adige: Falkenstein, for example, tribicchierato Gambero Rosso & Slow Food for the His Riesling or Unterortl (those of Castel Juval, so to speak). And the same choice as others do, little ones, as Unterhofer, just 2.3 hectares of land in Oltradige. And it is a beautiful act of courage. And opening to the world. Praise be to them.
wine now. And I must say with regret that I found on a white 2006, sounding a little 'less than m'attendessi, and compared with the 2005 seems like a good step below. But achieving this is the fun part: here the year shall be interpreted, and what is it accepts and respects. Anyway, a few bottles in the great sweep there this year.
reds I've tried less. I almost jumped at the foot 'of the Blauburgunder because I'd made a binge of Pinot Noir in the competition Laimburg (too bad if this was the new year: not everyone can enjoy standing up and turning the tables: ah, if there was room for those who like me, then to write about!). I shelved Lagrein (gotta make some choices, when the wines are more than two hundred). And I threw myself on the Slaves, curious about how this vine were interpreted child who is finding new interest, now that you want to drink wine.
Here, in order, among the best things that I put in the glass, knowing that in a few hours you feel carefully, yes and no quarter to what is on display (so, who knows beautiful things that I'm lost).
Ten whites and five reds.

Whites

Eisacktaler 2006 Manfred Kerner Nössing
The usual white champions of Val d'Isarco: great wine. Smell the fruit explodes yellow grass and alpine flowers. Fascinating. Fishing in the mouth is fleshy and firm. And there's depth and richness. And drink vibrant. An anthology by Kerner. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Eisacktaler Sylvaner 2006 Manfred Nössing
not had the Grüner Veltliner, Manfred Nössing, and I am told is a great Grüner. But with the resounding Kerner had another great white dusting: This Sylvaner. Nettle herb and sage. Elegant and graceful. Long. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Vinschgau Falkenstein Riesling 2006
Another beautiful vintage for Riesling Falkenstein, Val Venosta, a classic now. To be drunk young, I would say, as the previous vintage. The nose offers a rich bouquet of mountain flowers. Luscious mouth and tight, fresh and resinous. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Gewürztraminer 2006 Mazzon Gottardi
Go stand by Bruno Gottardi senz'assaggiare Pinot Noir may seem heresy. But I will have another occasion, while the Gewurz is rarer to find it. And it is among the best whites of South Tyrol. Fabulously rich in fruit and spice. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Pinus Gewürztraminer 2006 Zirmerhof
surprise. Nice surprise. Josef Perwanger has just 0.6 hectares of vineyard. Gewürztraminer 2006, in barrels made of acacia, is splendid. Citrine (even memories of fiord orange), finely spicy, fresh, long time. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Eisacktaler Sylvaner 2006 Garlider
Elegant bouquet: flower and grass in alpine meadow. And his mouth is an explosion of floral white. And then there remember herbaceous nettle. And sumatura yellow fruit. And beautiful veins of minerals that make it even more intriguing to drink. Two
happy smilies and nearly three :-) :-)
Eisacktaler Kerner 2006 Strasserhof
the nose, nectarine crisp, when it is not yet fully mature. And then sage and nettle. It is a thin vein of minerality. The mouth opening is aromatic. And tension. And drink nervous. Maybe a hair more gently. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Vinschgau Weissburgunder 2006 Falkenstein Falkenstein
again, but this time with the Pinot Blanc. What is wine that have great power drink. A white man who has character and personality nervous. There is good long, crisp and fruit is grafted a thin vein of minerality. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Weissburgunder Strahler 2006 Stroblhof
Stroblhof is Oltradige, for Appian. And it has a pretty good Pinot Blanc, fresh and strung the right, a lot of vegetable, flower and bell'eleganza with a spiciness that reminds me of the white pepper. It has good length. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Julian Bronner Bronner 2006 Lieselhof
The vine is reduced to nothing as quantity, saved from oblivion. Product with zero chemistry in the vineyard and winery, this white nose has fascinating: green leaves, yellow fruits mature litchi. Mouth aromatic, then. And hardiness. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)

Reds

Pinot Noir 2005 Mason Manincor

Now, yes, I said that I drank a little Pinot Noir, but since the 2004's was from my Manincor liked their so the contest Neumarkt, I wanted to try the new vintage. And it is another year of great pleasure. Elegant red and bell'appagamento. Three Faccini
happy :-) :-) :-)
Vernatsch Wolfsthurn 2006 Stachlburg
The drink to dry, this slave of the Val Venosta. Between the nose and spicy fruttatino. Mouth that has fruit and vegetable vein. Fresh and a bit 'tannins. Pleasant. Simple and complex whole. What do you want more from a red eleven and a half degrees? Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Vernatsch 2006 Gumphof
Other Slaves. From the beautiful pale red. Already looking at him, s'to Piquette, you feel like drinking. Nose of raspberry. Fruttino mouth juicy. Fresh, yet even with his temper. And there is tannin measured. If only there was a bit 'longer than ... Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Vernatsch Amadeus 2006 Lieselhof
is not filtered, this slave: the company works that way. So it's almost cloudy in the glass. And it is very rustic wine, but also beautiful substance. Red and complex earthy and peppery notes Fruttino to mature. I'd like some 'fresh longer. Two Faccini
happy :-) :-)
Vernatsch Campenn 2006 Unterhofer
Two wines, one white and one red, both in the screw cap. The Slave is a wine of no great pretension, yet tasty and pleasant to drink. Maybe missing a bit 'in depth, but fruttatina mouth and pepper and features rather long.
A happy little face and almost two :-)